Recent content by Ronny Axelsson

The US11 inks work fine for outdoor use, and so did UH21, but I would be very careful when using them on soft materials that are exposed to sunlight. My tests and experience shows that stickers will start to lift at the edges, curl into a roll and may even fell of over time. Since US is more...

My experience (HP Latex 365) is that running a cartridge completely empty can also damage the print head. Guess the last drops of ink may contain small particles that gets stuck in the head, or maybe it is just air but I have not been able to get rid of it when it happens. Usually not a problem...

I made the switch from UH21 to US11 on a Mutoh VJ 626 UF a couple of years ago. The UH inks worked great on rigid materials but just like you, Gary, my work shifted towards more soft materials so I decided to make the switch. The UH inks were too hard and would crack or break after a while and...

Don't know anything about Flexi, but isn't it all about getting marks with the correct look, position and size printed, so that your plotter can read them and cut? I bought an HP Latex printer when my Mimaki got unreliable some years ago, but still use my Mimaki plotter. All I have to do is...

I had a similar issue on my 365, where a cartridge ran low on ink and it clogged the print head so bad I had to replace it. Ink level indicators can be a bit unreliable when the cartridges are almost empty so I try to keep an eye on it and replace them a little earlier than I would like to.

Since there is (almost) no solvent vaporisation when curing UV inks, the ink layer will be thicker compared to other ink types. This isn't all bad but may be a problem in some cases. Sounds like the black is built up by a mix of CMY that is then topped with K, which creates this abnormal...

FWIW, I always use original inks. Have tried quite a few non-original inks and toners over the years but they have always made me disappointed in one way or another.

Neutral grey colors are always difficult, and a couple of percent extra of any CMY color will create a clearly visible discoloration. With a latex printer (at least with the HP 365 I use) it is importanat to make a color calibration now and then. "Performing a Color Calibration is a routine...

No built in function, as unclebun says, but there are macros that can do it. Here's one: Alexander Penkin’s Cadtool 5.

I guess it depends on how humid it is and how large the room is where you store the printer and material. I bought a small dehumidifier (rather small printer room) and even though it didn't help much with the poster paper, it is always good to keep humidity at a controlled level.

In addition to what's already been said, I think humidity (air and material) could also be causing the material to lift like this. Have had similar problems myself (not HP material though) and lowering the temperature and air humidity made it at least a little better.

"...we really need vector artwork at 300 DPI" Says a lot about their knowledge.

Here's another thing you can try: Bring your PNG into Draw. I suggest you duplicate it ("+" on numeric keypad) to keep the original underneath in place. Open Image Adjustment Lab and move the Contrast slider all the way to the right, and the Brightness slider to the left. This should create an...

Here's one thing you can try if you have Corel PhotoPaint and Draw: Open your PNG in PhotoPaint, it should come in as an object on a checkered background. Make sure the object is selected, then go to Mask > Create > Mask from Object (Ctrl+M). Next step, Mask > Create > Path from Mask. Open the...

A very usable tip. I have managed to extract vector based logos from downloaded PDFs several times. And the client (who couldn't provide more than a low res image) has no clue if you spent five minutes or two hours recreating it. :cool: Regarding text/fonts: FindMyFont is where I turn first...