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I came to look up a post about them I made a decade ago and it's gone. Damned shame, because it was a pretty detailed account of just how terrible the experience with their printers was, and it might have save someone a whole heap of trouble/headache.

PVC is the material. Sintra is a brand name. PVC Sintra is redundant.

I used a stock 3D mesh in EnRoute and "roughed" it up a bit to get the texture, and the print was a wood grain that we used used for a different customer's items, with some Photoshop tweaks to get it looking weathered, and to get it where it could be tiled. I didn't bother trying to get a...

I did this exact thing about five years ago. Had a customer that wanted to line his gun safe with reclaimed wood panels (or whatever it's called) but didn't want to pay the cost. Instead (and I can't believe this was cheaper), I set up and ran 300 some-odd sq ft on the router, creating a 3D...

Zip change track can be installed with rivets, if needed. I like Ryze Signs' suggestion about the wood. That would look nicer, I think. Probably not particularly durable if they want to use it outdoors, though.

You might be able to fudge your way with some extrusion (J molding or the like), but that's overkill in my opinion. I'd use polycarbonate (available from Wagner) if concerned about plastic durability.

The only other thing I can think of (besides calling Multicam) is have someone with the same software look at the file and get some "fresh eyes" on it. If you want to send the DNC and EnRoute files to me, I can try taking a look at 'em. We run a Multicam 3000 series, but I'd imagine the G-Code...

My first guess was that the surface somehow got set to the bottom of the plate (in your file setup) instead of the top, but then I wouldn't think the first pass would go down, either. Couldn't hurt to check, though. (In EnRoute, this is an option when you create a new plate- it's a "check box"...

If I didn't read the description, I'd think that was a pounce tool.

Pretty much the same as you, but absolutely no production until samples are approved, either (if you included that, I missed it).

I may be wrong (wouldn't be the first time), but the only manufacturers in that market that I'm aware of were HP and Mimaki. Last time I looked was a while back, but they were it as far as anything of any size that might actually be usable for a sign shop.

Reverse print on clear and laminate with white for some opacity (use translucent if you want more light coming in/out) and apply to interior. If it needs to be perf, I seem to recall some manufacturer had come out with a perf that worked for second surface, but don't remember who it was.

I suggest not using ACM for a backer. I don't have anything against ACM, mind you- it's just that that's a pretty sizeable backer to have relying on a couple of pieces of tin-foil and plastic to keep the fasteners in place. I've seen plenty of ACM signs pulled off walls, posts, etc. when a stiff...

Hate to disparage, but that's either not a very good router, or not a very good operator. Our router cuts on plastics almost never require finish work, and we do a ton of push-thru (have 14 sheets' worth for just one order waiting for assembly at the moment).

^^^ This right here. My favorite example of this is a job I had back in the 80s at an industrial supplier. Every single one of the folks working as salespeople and CSRs had to have worked in the shop (actually assembling the products) before the boss even considered pulling them into the office...

I couldn't even venture a guess as to how many times I've had to kick back orders calling for 1/4" stud-mounted acrylic. At least with aluminum, you can "cheat" and go a little deeper with a finer thread.

You can do the refining of your font in Illustrator, but it won't create a font file. You need a different program for that. Pretty good tutorial here.

It's ridiculously hard to find on the SAI website, but Gunner isn't listed in the most recent version of Flexi as far as I can tell. Try contacting either Gunner or SAI directly to ask them.

White is what we go with nearly universally, because then the customer won't complain that they can see the LEDs along the edges (when you get the right angle, they're glaringly obvious). This keeps you from having to adding yet another layer of vinyl- the diffuser they're going to want on the...

As other have said- corner rounders work fine. Remember, the aluminum skin on ACM is approximately aluminum foil thick.