Painting a Sign

[Jetmech]

I was quoting some vinyl work and was asked to do this sign with simple text. Can I can cut a stencil out of vinyl and roll the lettering?

[Gino]

I wouldn't advise it on that piece of wood. Too much grain lifting. Your paint will seep under everything. Best would be to put an overlay on it and then use your vinyl for the lettering.

[imaSIGNr]

....First, I'd use vinyl if possible.
....If you were to use vinyl as a mask. I'd use spray mask not vinyl cause vinyl has more tack and might pull up the paint on your substrate by the looks of it.
But , if you must ,I would spray, not roll. Then spray a light coat of white first ( substrate color ) so that if any does get under the mask it will be same color as background, but this will seal the mask where it might get under. Then spray LIGHTLY your color, probably 2-3 coats.
Like Gino says, overlay it first.....maybe .040 aluminum

[Billct2]

I'd also prefer vinyl letters to a mask on this surfac, but best solution is an overlay.

[Jetmech]

Thanks for the options. Cutting and installing say aluminum would not be my first choice if I could put vinyl lettering directly on. Is that even an option and would it then be sealed?

[markz]

your in Texas, so, i would.
test painted surface for paint adhesion with the mask-to avoid problems. then if kuhl, wipe clean, apply mask.
roll color, but have a foam brush handy in case it runs or sags-to smooth out, apply 1 tack coat,one finish. temps dictate time so you'll get it.

remove stencil after it looks like the paint coverage-sag step is ok, then remove mask.
if you can juice to it use a hair dryer to warm mask...it helps with removal & paint pull issues.
auughhiteeee Mz-you can do it !


ioafs....it's Only A Freakin Sign, right.

[OldPaint]

paint in the vertical....FOR A PERSON WHO DOSENT PAINT.....is not what you want to try !!!!!!!!!!!!
if you are a PAINTER...its easy, non painter you gona make a big mess.
ALUM PANELS WITH VINYL....best choice!!!

[Jetmech]

I would be a person that don't paint, yup! I guess it's panels, or just make the design, do the other vinyl work that started the quote, and pass this along to someone that paints.

I do have plenty of Orcal 810S spray mask I bought for aircraft, and could try that, but it may be alot of work to find out the advise here was sound.

I still have to ask, vinyl lettering just doesn't work with painted wood? I would think if you could get a solid application, it would only need to be sprayed/coated to protect it. Is that something that is ever done?

[imaSIGNr]

Vinyl on painted wood is fine, but I think the reference was that the wood looked like the grain was picking up. Is that smooth painted wood ? Like MDO ? It looks like construction plywood.( CDX )
If water is going to get in the cracks of the wood and behind the vinyl. The lettering just won't last very long and it will tend to have air pockets behind the vinyl.....
It's hard to tell, but the panel looks kinda old and maybe even has some dry rot by the bottom. This is why the alum. panel overlay would work best. If it is really dry rot, it may be time for a new sign all together......

[Jetmech]

No, you are right, it's rough imaS, construction type plywood. I really would have to show pictures of the entire sight, it's not overly professional, in fact, kinda a disaster, and is why I stopped in and dropped a buisness card down. The overlay is the solution, but I want to ask as I'm curious, if I ever get a wood sign to lay vinyl on, what would I do to seal the vinyl? Is there a common spray to put on?

[Checkers]

Follow Gino and OP's advice, letter another substrate and apply it to the structure. Judging by the pic, I would even consider using coroplast. It's cheap and it probably would outlast the structure.
Trying to mask and roller paint would be an option on a better prepped or smoother surface. However, this looks like a disaster waiting to happen for a novice painter. Vinyl probably won't work because it doesn't look like it's a gloss finish.

Checkers

[Gino]

Not knowing how long you've been in this industry, but judging by your questions.... this might help.

Don’t use construction type wood or plywood for backgrounds of signs that are to be painted or vinyl-ed. It just ain’t a good combination. Til you get that type of substrate ready to accept paint or vinyl, you’ll have lost four days of your life.

If wood is the product of choice, go with MDO… Medium Density Overlay plywood. It has become the industry standard for wood backgrounds. In fact, you can even get it already pre-primed or even the new and improved pre-painted product RTG…. Ready-To-Go.

Last, you don’t need to seal, spray or clearcoat die cut vinyl to any substrate. Only digitally printed vinyl needs some form of a laminate after adhering to the substrate.

[Pro Image]

Another Vote for Gino's and OP's advice..........

[Jetmech]

I am on my way to doing the design in Illustrator.

Thanks guys.

[OldPaint]

Get Corel)))))))))))))))))))))))

[admoor]

I just got through doing this...it was kind of a nightmare...It was MDO with a stencil overlay...painted. Took way too long to do the amount of signs he gave me to do. Good thing I am a decent painter...It could have been alot worse.

[Jetmech]

It worked out with the .040. 3 sections, made it easy to transport for sure.

[Rich]

Vertical signs of this size are always a challange to work on. Seems your customer wanted to list every freaking thing he sells :) There's a lot going on there. Consider using more background panels for the more important items.