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Sign_Boy
06-12-2007, 02:05 PM
Has anyone here had any experience with push-through copy on an exterior light box?

The copy will be acrylic and the face will be aluminum. Some of the copy will be able to have shoulders but not all of it. This is due to the letters being to close to each other. I was thinking of using studs but was not sure if there was a better way maybe some kind of epoxy or glue that will stand the test of time.

Any advice would be grand. Thank you in advance.

Shovelhead
06-12-2007, 02:11 PM
Has anyone here had any experience with push-through copy on an exterior light box?

The copy will be acrylic and the face will be aluminum. Some of the copy will be able to have shoulders but not all of it. This is due to the letters being to close to each other. I was thinking of using studs but was not sure if there was a better way maybe some kind of epoxy or glue that will stand the test of time.

Any advice would be grand. Thank you in advance.

AND it should be fastened with studs.

Sign_Boy
06-12-2007, 03:02 PM
That is what I thought, Thank you.

creative
06-12-2007, 03:06 PM
studs dipped in silicon would be even better

Sign_Boy
06-12-2007, 03:23 PM
Cool, I'll look into that.

One more thing not to be a pest.
Is .080 Aluminum a standard face for an exterior box? It will be routed. Or should I go thicker?
Thank you once again.

Shovelhead
06-12-2007, 03:29 PM
aluminum....depending on the size.

Sign_Boy
06-12-2007, 03:49 PM
Each face is 42" x 56"

Let me see if I am going about this the right way.

The letters should be stud mounted I would guess "flush stud mounted".
The Aluminum Face should be .125 thick

Putting it together:

Attach the Acrylic letters to an Acrylic backer using the stud mounts.
Then attach the Acrylic backer to the sign face using???
That is where I get lost. Forgive me but this is my first one of these.

Thank you once again.

Shovelhead
06-12-2007, 04:08 PM
"The letters should be stud mounted I would guess "flush stud mounted".
The Aluminum Face should be .125 thick"

I thought your letters are push-thru extended???

Sign_Boy
06-12-2007, 04:10 PM
I'll post a picture. I bet it would help.

Sign_Boy
06-12-2007, 05:06 PM
Perhaps this will help?

Shovelhead
06-12-2007, 06:27 PM
why can't it all be shoulder cut?

Sign_Boy
06-12-2007, 06:36 PM
I was told that some of the copy was too close to one another.

Some of the copy is less then 3/8 of an inch apart.

Si Allen
06-12-2007, 07:07 PM
DuuuuuH!

Place a sheet of thin clear acrylic on your work bench, place the routed aluminum on top, dab some Weledon acrylic glue on the back of a letter and push into the apprpriate slot. Repeat with all the letters.

Sign_Boy
06-12-2007, 07:18 PM
Then what will hold the clear acrylic in place?

Here are two pics of the original sign.(I did not make it)
I need to fix this baby.

Like I said this is a first for me.

Thank you for the pointers.

Sign_Boy
06-12-2007, 11:33 PM
May I :beer BUMP :Oops:

Sign_Boy
06-16-2007, 10:48 AM
Can anyone give some advice on the best way to use WeldOn Acrylic glue.
It's been years since I've used it and could use a refresher.
(please don't say brush it on, hahahahaha)

Thank you in advance

jiarby
06-16-2007, 04:54 PM
For the watery kind (Weldon #3, #4) you have to join your pieces and then shoot some of the solvent with a syringe and the capillary action will suck in between the two piece. Then a minute of pressure and it is done. Works better for smaller bits. For larger pieces where you need more time I'd use the weldon #16 which comes in a tube & is thicker like a glue.

Sign_Boy
06-16-2007, 07:26 PM
Thank you jiarby.

What about Temperature changes?
Will it crack?

Signguyno1
06-17-2007, 12:51 AM
(DuuuuuH!

Place a sheet of thin clear acrylic on your work bench, place the routed aluminum on top, dab some Weledon acrylic glue on the back of a letter and push into the apprpriate slot. Repeat with all the letters.)

Listen to Si, old geezzers know what they are talkin about!