liquid laminate question...

[John L]

i'm new to printing. have a falcon jr and q1oo... whats the process for using clearshield or other liquid lams?

do you print, contour cut, let it dry good, liquid lam, then weed?

also... would krylon clear work as a laminate?

thx

[Jackpine]

Print, cut, SPRAY clearshield let it set a bit then weed. I would only do this for smallish decals. I cost is an issue, use clear intermediate vinyl and laminate then cut. This would be for protection only, no UV for color fade. I brush clearshield with a foam brush on some banners (charge for this) if they are to be used a lot and they look great.
There are a lot of UV clear sprays that work at WalMart, including krylon.

[John L]

I needed to clear a small printed graphic today and didnt have any material. I ran out and got the Krylon Clear and sprayed it on. It looked great, didnt shrink the vinyl (as I wrongly thought it might have), and I was able to mask it and apply it about an hour later. I wet the transfer tape down before pulling it just to be sure, but no troubles.

It seems to have worked great here. But is there any reason to believe that the Krylon Clear will yellow prematurely? Could it later cause shrinkage and make the graphic lift at the edges? Cost seems fair, and it was very convenient, any negatives that anyone knows of?

Thanks!

[John L]

Jackpine; You suggested spray the Clearshield. Do you mean using the Harbor Freight gun that they recommend or another method?

Thanks

[Jackpine]

Jackpine; You suggested spray the Clearshield. Do you mean using the Harbor Freight gun that they recommend or another method?

Thanks
Clearshield comes in a spray can also. Krylon clear UV should not yellow. It is acrylic and there is a thick version at WalMart. They come in spray cans too.

[bob]

Clearshield comes in a spray can also. Krylon clear UV should not yellow. It is acrylic and there is a thick version at WalMart. They come in spray cans too.

No it does not. The ClearStar product in a spray can is ClearJet, a solvent based material. Not the same thing as the water based ClearShield.

Try never to use a solvent coating on a solvent ink print. While people have been known to get away with it, that's all they're doing; getting away with it. You will have problems.

I've sprayed, rolled, and brushed ClearShield and as far as I'm concerned brushing is the preferred method. I use a foam brush and sort of mop it on. Once you get the hang of it it's quicker and easier than spraying or rolling and does a better job. The last time I checked this was also ClearStar's preferred application method. With really large stuff you can put the print on a clean floor and use a sponge mop.

[Ken]

What's the drying time on Clearshield?
I've been using Frog Juice in the spray can but I find that If you try it on a vertical surface, it may cause your ink to run. It dries very fast. I suppose this is why BOB recommends to NOT use solvent base clear on sol inks.
Cheers!
Ken

[bob]

What's the drying time on Clearshield?
I've been using Frog Juice in the spray can but I find that If you try it on a vertical surface, it may cause your ink to run. It dries very fast. I suppose this is why BOB recommends to NOT use solvent base clear on sol inks.
Cheers!
Ken

ClearShield dries to handle in 20-30 minutes. To roll or stack in maybe twice that. It very much depends on your current temperature and humidity conditions.

Using Frog Juice on solvent prints is a crap shoot. It can run the inks but worse is that often it never dries. I have a few samples out in the shop that were Frog Juiced a couple of months ago and they're still tacky. Specifically the prints were Eco-solvent inks on both Oracal 3651 and plain old 651.

[Jackpine]

No it does not. The ClearStar product in a spray can is ClearJet, a solvent based material. Not the same thing as the water based ClearShield.

Try never to use a solvent coating on a solvent ink print. While people have been known to get away with it, that's all they're doing; getting away with it. You will have problems.

I've sprayed, rolled, and brushed ClearShield and as far as I'm concerned brushing is the preferred method. I use a foam brush and sort of mop it on. Once you get the hang of it it's quicker and easier than spraying or rolling and does a better job. The last time I checked this was also ClearStar's preferred application method. With really large stuff you can put the print on a clean floor and use a sponge mop.

I've used it for 2 years on some of my prints and haven't had a problem
(knock on wood). I prefer film laminate for most everything.

[Ken]

Thanks bob. I'll try the clearshield asap. I have not had any problems with Frogjuice drying easily. I did have a situation where, after applying FJ the transfer tape would lift the FJ AND the ink off the vinyl. Ruined my day.
Cheers!
Ken

[Techman]

FRog Juice is NOT a good choice for prints..
its stays tacky , it will lift,, and flake,,

[Ken]

I guess I'll find out soon enough. I've had prints out there for 2 yrs now with Frog Juice. I just have not had the "tacky" problems others have mentioned.
Techman..how long ago did you have this problem? Perhaps they have changed their formulation since then?
Ken