Answers for master cutter owners!

[Sandrailgraphics.com]

So you bought the cheap brand plotter that people have warned you about right? Now it skips cuts diagonal lines and pauses randomly.

Well heres some info that will make your cutter run like a roland (just maybe a little LOUDER)!

First the reasons why these plotters pause sometimes.
#1 static build up and poor grounds are the number one cause for this.
#2 The packet size in your software is set by default at waay too low sizes so you computer is constantly sending tiny packets to the cutter which =pausing to catch up.
#3 Your curve settings are (again by default) too high.

Those are the major reasons for the problems you experience with these plotters.

These are ways to fix them;

#1 Make sure your machine is grounded correctly, preferably to its own outlet. Some people have reported that they have to turn off their computer to plot and the reason for this is all your equipment is sharing one ground and for some reason master cutters create a rediculous amount of static.

#2 Go into your production manager and check your packet settings, in flexi it is set at 8kb by default, go ahead and bump that number up to 1000kb. The master cutters have between 2-4mb buffer size so dont exceed 2mb.

#3 Go into production manager again and set you curve quality to medium or low setting, this will dramatically lessen the packet being sent to your cutter and is not very noticeable to the eye.

#4 For large projects set the curve quality to low.

#5 If you have a humidifier or swamp cooler(for the summer) USE them to raise the humidity to help discharge the static created. (helpful, but not required.)

#6 Make sure your settings look like this in your production manager;
Bits per second: 9600
Data bits: 8
Parity: none
Stop bits: 1
Flow control: Hardware

Click on job defaults (in flexi click on the knife tab);
Resolution: 1000.000 steps/in
Passes: 1
Knife offset: 0.012in (having this setting wrong will prevent your cutter from completing cuts and leave a tiny piece not cut)
Packet size: 1000kb
Curve quality: medium-low depending on job size.

Fallow all that and you should have a "Normal" plotter that cuts right the first time instead of doing everything twice:cool1:!

Any other questions just ask!

[Replicator]

I don't own a cheap plotter, but it's extremely nice of you to try and help those who do !

[Shovelhead]

for emergency backup only.

[Sign_Language]

I have the Master XY-380P , Paid $500.00. I have had it for 2+ years and is a workhorse with no problems thus far. Of course would like to go with a Graphtec, just have not went that route yet.

The settings that you posted are helpful, as sometimes circles do not completely cut. (a little hand cut fixed that ) But overall a nice plotter for an Ebay purchase.

Again, thanks for those settings !
http://www.signs101.com/forums/images/smilies/thank%20you.gif:U Rock:

[Sandrailgraphics.com]

The settings that you posted are helpful, as sometimes circles do not completely cut. (a little hand cut fixed that ) But overall a nice plotter for an Ebay purchase.

A


That what I was talking about and used to happen to me before I adjusted the knife offset. That will completely fix the preoblem.:peace!:

[drakesis]

Very odd my 'packet size' is grey out, when checked it only lets me go between 1kb - 16kb, it won't accept 1000kb?

[Sandrailgraphics.com]

Very odd my 'packet size' is grey out, when checked it only lets me go between 1kb - 16kb, it won't accept 1000kb?

What software are you running?

[drakesis]

What software are you running?

Flexi-Pro 7

[Sandrailgraphics.com]

hmmm....:help:. I'd suggest maxing it out to 16kb, my flexi (7.6)maxes out at 1mb(1024kb). Sorry and best of luck.

[jenhuedepohl]

Thanks for the tips! I bought my El Cheapo for craft use, but it has since gone "pro" with great success. If I needed a full-time cutter, I might have to go with a better cuttr, but the Master has paid for itself and been perfect for my part-time business.

[OldPaint]

So you bought the cheap brand plotter that people have warned you about right? Now it skips cuts diagonal lines and pauses randomly.

Well heres some info that will make your cutter run like a roland (just maybe a little LOUDER)!

First the reasons why these plotters pause sometimes.
#1 static build up and poor grounds are the number one cause for this.
#2 The packet size in your software is set by default at waay too low sizes so you computer is constantly sending tiny packets to the cutter which =pausing to catch up.
#3 Your curve settings are (again by default) too high.

Those are the major reasons for the problems you experience with these plotters.

These are ways to fix them;

#1 Make sure your machine is grounded correctly, preferably to its own outlet. Some people have reported that they have to turn off their computer to plot and the reason for this is all your equipment is sharing one ground and for some reason master cutters create a rediculous amount of static.

#2 Go into your production manager and check your packet settings, in flexi it is set at 8kb by default, go ahead and bump that number up to 1000kb. The master cutters have between 2-4mb buffer size so dont exceed 2mb.

#3 Go into production manager again and set you curve quality to medium or low setting, this will dramatically lessen the packet being sent to your cutter and is not very noticeable to the eye.

#4 For large projects set the curve quality to low.

#5 If you have a humidifier or swamp cooler(for the summer) USE them to raise the humidity to help discharge the static created. (helpful, but not required.)

#6 Make sure your settings look like this in your production manager;
Bits per second: 9600
Data bits: 8
Parity: none
Stop bits: 1
Flow control: Hardware

Click on job defaults (in flexi click on the knife tab);
Resolution: 1000.000 steps/in
Passes: 1
Knife offset: 0.012in (having this setting wrong will prevent your cutter from completing cuts and leave a tiny piece not cut)
Packet size: 1000kb
Curve quality: medium-low depending on job size.

Fallow all that and you should have a "Normal" plotter that cuts right the first time instead of doing everything twice:cool1:!

Any other questions just ask!
no question....but i do want to say...
F................YA BOUGHT A ROLAND TO START WITH YOU DONT NEED TO DO ALL THE ABOVE))))))))))))))))))))))
HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

[Sign_Language]

DOH ! Why didn't I think of that........Buy a Roland instead....Your insight goes far beyond human comprehension.

http://www.signs101.com/forums/images/smilies/thank%20you.gif

[ghetto_cowboy]

This message is hidden because OldPaint is on your ignore list.



gotta love /ignore

[OldPaint]

get a sence of humor......cowboy.........he probsbly dont even know what a horse is)))))))))))))))))))))))))))

[Rick]

The big question is....how can I get my Roland to cut like my Graphtec. :rolleyes:

[gpzjack]

I found this thread very helpful. My Cheapo now runs great...just in time for my new cutter to arrive. I just picked up a Q60 ...for those that have a master cutter..its great as a backup or starter but man what a difference with a better machine.

That is all

[schurms]

You guys got to realize a cheap plotter is ok for a part timer. i have one and can sell anything you can do on a higher buck one. You have to understand in this world nowdays things are changing constantly. I do not like cheap chinese crap but thats life deal with it or let life pass you by.

[Techman]

i have one and can sell anything you can do on a higher buck one.

Yes, you can,,
but how many times do you ahve to try to get it right? How many times can you get an accurate cut which is very important for layered vinyl?
And how many feet of cuttings can you get and have it stay on track? And how much babysitting do u have to do to make sure the cutter doesn't screw up the job?

And how much vinyl is wasted redoing mistakes?

And then, finally, how muh time is lost (when it does screw up) hunting down some fix or workaround that no one knows about because fo some non standard technique or firmware requirement.???

[gpzjack]

My favorite on the master machine is halfway thru a project it just drags the blade thru all of your work and you have to start over...its fun.

[schurms]

For those big jobs with tough register I print it !

[Conundrum]

Awesome, I love knowing I have a POS cutter. :Big Laugh /cry

How do I make these adjustments if I'm using SignGo Lite?

[fenris242]

after reading everything on this thread, i have the beg the question, "am i the only one with a gerber plotter?" i've only ever used gerber plotters.....started out with the super sprint, moved to the gs15, now have the envision 375 and p2c.....

[allstargraphics]

Thanks for your help! Just fixed the settings in flexi for my and my master xy-380p. Hopefully I won't have anymore issues with incomplete cuts. :)

[Conundrum]

My favorite on the master machine is halfway thru a project it just drags the blade thru all of your work and you have to start over...its fun.

Have you figured out why it does this? My machine drags the blade through pretty much everything during the entire job. It doesn't cut all the way through but you can see the scratches. It's annoying as hell.

[Techman]

Have you figured out why it does this?

Its a casual use machine never meant for professional use in a business. Plain and simple.

[Conundrum]

Well, I guess that's what I get for not doing my research first. :Cool 2:

[cutkiller]

Have you figured out why it does this? My machine drags the blade through pretty much everything during the entire job. It doesn't cut all the way through but you can see the scratches. It's annoying as hell.

highlight "local", click select, then highlight "current", move your blade where you want the job begin, send the job, then press enter to confirm the "curent" location. DO NOT confirm the "curent" location before the job is 100% sent. Then press enter and the job will start and you should have no issue. Let me know.

[zgraphics]

I bought a cheapo on ebay and that my second plotter. we only run small jobs. Ill try the setting when i get to the shop. thanks

[Sandrailgraphics.com]

WoW, I havent been on here since 07 (decided to be a firefighter instead, lol) but 1300+ views I sure hope this thread helped some people out:supersmilie:.
Heres another tip for you guys!
That "Blade dragging" you guys mention is more than likely being caused by static discharging on to the board and causing a reset wich screws the plotter up, SOOO try this....
Grab a phillips screwdriver and go to the back of your machine where the rollers slide into, if you have ever watched this area (or listened) you would notice small sparks caused from the bearings sitting on the plastic with no way to ground so it builds up and arcs to the phillips screw. Ever notice roland has metal supports for their rollers? Anyway loosen one screw per side and bring the screw up to where it will contact the roller bearings and this will provide an easy ground for the rollers to discharge all that static.


til next time!

[SignosaurusRex]

The big question is....how can I get my Roland to cut like my Graphtec. :rolleyes:
Yes Sir, absofriginlutely... Ricker!:thumb:

[S'N'S]

I have a Roland but did buy a cheap Chinese cutter a few years back and had the slice thru the graphic problem when trying to use it with Vinyl Master Pro...worked fine with Artcut. Anyway I contacted VMP and their head tech Tony sent me a patch and it fixed the problem. So it's not always the cutter.

[signmeup]

So it's not always the cutter.
Careful SNS....them's fightin' words on this board....for some people.:biggrin:

[Mark L]

WoW, I havent been on here since 07 (decided to be a firefighter instead, lol) but 1300+ views I sure hope this thread helped some people out:supersmilie:.
Heres another tip for you guys!
That "Blade dragging" you guys mention is more than likely being caused by static discharging on to the board and causing a reset wich screws the plotter up, SOOO try this....
Grab a phillips screwdriver and go to the back of your machine where the rollers slide into, if you have ever watched this area (or listened) you would notice small sparks caused from the bearings sitting on the plastic with no way to ground so it builds up and arcs to the phillips screw. Ever notice roland has metal supports for their rollers? Anyway loosen one screw per side and bring the screw up to where it will contact the roller bearings and this will provide an easy ground for the rollers to discharge all that static.


til next time!



Hey Great Tip,
Here is another tip unplug your maching and roll it to the back of the shop.
Make sure your not near anything worth value or that can get damage, and go get a phillips screw driver or you will also need a robertson screwdriver.
Now take the top cover off you see two screw on top now grab the sledge hammer and start beating it to a pulp!!!!!! lol:Oops: oh well I quess I'll use the plotter that never gives me problems..

[Alphonse43]

Great thread, great tips. I've been running a Roland for many years (at least15,more I think), so I'm with Oldpaint on that one, but still a great thread with loads of advise.
Alphonse43

[AKWD]

Yes, you can,,
but how many times do you ahve to try to get it right? How many times can you get an accurate cut which is very important for layered vinyl?
And how many feet of cuttings can you get and have it stay on track? And how much babysitting do u have to do to make sure the cutter doesn't screw up the job?

And how much vinyl is wasted redoing mistakes?

And then, finally, how muh time is lost (when it does screw up) hunting down some fix or workaround that no one knows about because fo some non standard technique or firmware requirement.???

Until I learned a few tricks; A few times. Since? None.

This message is hidden because OldPaint is on your ignore list.
gotta love /ignore

Wait... You can ignore? Sweet! *adds as well*

Very odd my 'packet size' is grey out, when checked it only lets me go between 1kb - 16kb, it won't accept 1000kb?

You might be doing what I was doing at first; I was staring at 'Transmission' buffer, not packet size. :D Packet size is greyed out by default; It's not a dropdown in 7.0, but it is a user-editable with an up/down button set on the right.

Grab a phillips screwdriver and go to the back of your machine where the rollers slide into, if you have ever watched this area (or listened) you would notice small sparks caused from the bearings sitting on the plastic with no way to ground so it builds up and arcs to the phillips screw. Ever notice roland has metal supports for their rollers? Anyway loosen one screw per side and bring the screw up to where it will contact the roller bearings and this will provide an easy ground for the rollers to discharge all that static.

I haven't opened mine again recently, but instead of moving screws/etc, wouldn't it make more sense just to make yourself a static ground cable from that screw to the case itself? I might try this, as an added level of protection.

#5 If you have a humidifier or swamp cooler(for the summer) USE them to raise the humidity to help discharge the static created. (helpful, but not required.)

The only issue with maintaining a higher humidity, is that while this will naturally help with static, it can also be an issue; As since the position of the board and the static-producers are so close, I wonder if this could also trigger an issue. My guess why more humidity would be better is that while the static discharge may still occur, it happens more frequently and less intense by quite a bit, thus not causing the hardware not to goof up. As mentioned above; Would static grounds from the screws be a better solution?


Edit/Add: I can't find whom commented on it quickly, but just to add; I've gotten well over 30 feet in one run with perfect tracking. My secret on the Master (Which I know you negative people will comment on) is that if I do need perfect tracking, I simply feed the vinyl off the roll so that there is no jarring issues. From my watching of the unit, it is the number one place for issues. Especially on larger rolls, it is just too much material/weight for 2 pinch rollers. It slips, plain and simple. I'm not sure who told me or mentioned it, but I heard a way to really make this easy, is to find 1 or 2 more pinch rollers, add them to the track for that extra grippage.

[Bradster941]

Hey Great Tip,
Here is another tip unplug your maching and roll it to the back of the shop.
Make sure your not near anything worth value or that can get damage, and go get a phillips screw driver or you will also need a robertson screwdriver.
Now take the top cover off you see two screw on top now grab the sledge hammer and start beating it to a pulp!!!!!! lol:Oops: oh well I quess I'll use the plotter that never gives me problems..


Putz...:rolleyes:

[Brands Imaging]

bump

[Brands Imaging]

ok so...

i grounded my master, and i cant seem to bring it back from the dead...the tech support guy from master (who cannot pronounce "r") told me that the motherboard is shot..

any suggestions BESIDES getting a roland????

[Brands Imaging]

ok update (if you care)

I re grounded the plotter to the main ground in my building...
cuts like a champ now...however, I cant wait to get a new roland or graphtec..
too much uncertainty

[Mark L]

Putz...:rolleyes:


:iamwithstupid just kidding lol.........:ROFLMAO:

[signmeup]

I say get the oland.

[johnny_loves_amy]

I have the Master XY-380P , Paid $500.00. I have had it for 2+ years and is a workhorse with no problems thus far. Of course would like to go with a Graphtec, just have not went that route yet.

The settings that you posted are helpful, as sometimes circles do not completely cut. (a little hand cut fixed that ) But overall a nice plotter for an Ebay purchase.

Again, thanks for those settings !
http://www.signs101.com/forums/images/smilies/thank%20you.gif:U Rock:This is good advice being given out!!!! I did exactly this a few months ago, and my BridgeCutter plotter is running awsome now.. I am still gonna get me a Roland, or Graphtes though..

[stickershock23]

I have a master 380p it works pretty good, 90% of the time. but when it messes up it really messes up.

Were can I make those setting adjustments if I am using singo?

the mail troubles I have is if you are doing really long cuts were the "rollers" have to go back and forth alot, the blade does not stay aligned. by time its done the cut is off by as much as 1/4" I have learned to stay away from that. fortunately in my work line I dont need to cut longer than my cutter does wide very often.

My second trouble. when I fist got it I could do tiny lettering (1/4 tall or so) now when I do those it seems to (for lack of better words) take short cuts.
If I look at my artwork the corners are square and straight, when it cuts them they are rounded, and sloppy.

Will changing some of these setting help this?

lastly, seems everyone likes the rolland cutters. I love signgo software, Ive been using it for a few years, and all the artwork I sell is on it. will a rolland machine work with signgo?

thanks in advance.

Mark

[Brands Imaging]

update....the master took a sh*t..just sold it for 150 less then i bought it for. good riddens

[tnsmyers]

I have a master 380p it works pretty good, 90% of the time. but when it messes up it really messes up.

Were can I make those setting adjustments if I am using singo?

the mail troubles I have is if you are doing really long cuts were the "rollers" have to go back and forth alot, the blade does not stay aligned. by time its done the cut is off by as much as 1/4" I have learned to stay away from that. fortunately in my work line I dont need to cut longer than my cutter does wide very often.

My second trouble. when I fist got it I could do tiny lettering (1/4 tall or so) now when I do those it seems to (for lack of better words) take short cuts.
If I look at my artwork the corners are square and straight, when it cuts them they are rounded, and sloppy.

Will changing some of these setting help this?

lastly, seems everyone likes the rolland cutters. I love signgo software, Ive been using it for a few years, and all the artwork I sell is on it. will a rolland machine work with signgo?

thanks in advance.

Mark
me too me too!! i would like the answers to these questions also because i use sign go

[JC]

If you power off/on between cuts it clears and then you can cut multiples or long cuts(just roll out what ever length your gonna cut)....over and over.. I haven't experienced the dreaded diagnal death cut a single time since I started doing this.

Now I'm just in the habit of powering down and up between cuts.
I'm sure combining this with the settings info mentioned above will keep you working..

If you have experience with different cutters you can master your master pretty easy...

I have put thousands of yards through mine....it paid for itself real fast.

:thumb: www.1shotsigns.com (http://www.1shotsigns.com)

[JC]

Oh... and by the way... this machine has got my business off the ground and running for 2 years so far. If its part time for now...then I have the right machine...when it goes full time I will have a nice back up..

Not everyone has the pleasure of having money tossed at them to start a business or some sort of help from some source.

Starting your own business with no help$$ after being everyone elses sign shop slave for 10 years has not been easy...but I can tell you this...

its really sweet driving by your old boss with your own truck lettered...
yeah buddy....your worst nightmare....lol...lol...lol....:thumb:

[kosign]

I have a chinese vinyl burner as well. Until I changed the blade, I had no problems with exact cuts. But now my text is rounded and sloppy as well, though the art looks fine.
I don't have problems with the diag cut unless I send a very lengthy file ~ 6', which I just haven't *mastered*. Though the 'select current' usually solves this in 3 - 4' files.
At this point, I'd just like to get back to the well cut fonts I had before. I'm using the flexistarter 7.5 that came with the cutter, I'm a Mac.
If anyone has some advice on tweaks to Flexi and other Mac cutware , I appreciate it.

[1leonchen]

The big question is....how can I get my Roland to cut like my Graphtec. :rolleyes:


sell me the roland and buy a graphtec

[Billct2]

am i the only one with a gerber plotter?"
Nope, devoted Gerber plotter user here too. Threads like this keep me one too.

[fenris242]

Nope, devoted Gerber plotter user here too. Threads like this keep me one too.

tell me about it....i can honestly say i've never had an issue with a gerber plotter that was the plotters fault....whenever there's been a misscut, it's because of the material (usually the punch is off).....i'll never use anything but gerber....

[Carlitos87]

hello,
I have a RedSail cutting plotter and setting bust it up :D.
Another thing in FlexiSign i hit the showme botton it measure writh but when i hit the send botton it dosnt start where it measured, it start right in the border of the vinyl.

Any one that could help.

thnx

[Carlitos87]

You saved my life with this info. Thanks a lot!!! :D :D

I have another situation with my RedSail Cutting plotter, when set the Knife Offset to 0.012 on Flexy, when i hit the "show me button" y measures right but when i hit SEND. its cuts very close to the edge of the vinyl. even thought the design its centered.

Any Helpt will be appreciated.

Thank you.




So you bought the cheap brand plotter that people have warned you about right? Now it skips cuts diagonal lines and pauses randomly.

Well heres some info that will make your cutter run like a roland (just maybe a little LOUDER)!

First the reasons why these plotters pause sometimes.
#1 static build up and poor grounds are the number one cause for this.
#2 The packet size in your software is set by default at waay too low sizes so you computer is constantly sending tiny packets to the cutter which =pausing to catch up.
#3 Your curve settings are (again by default) too high.

Those are the major reasons for the problems you experience with these plotters.

These are ways to fix them;

#1 Make sure your machine is grounded correctly, preferably to its own outlet. Some people have reported that they have to turn off their computer to plot and the reason for this is all your equipment is sharing one ground and for some reason master cutters create a rediculous amount of static.

#2 Go into your production manager and check your packet settings, in flexi it is set at 8kb by default, go ahead and bump that number up to 1000kb. The master cutters have between 2-4mb buffer size so dont exceed 2mb.

#3 Go into production manager again and set you curve quality to medium or low setting, this will dramatically lessen the packet being sent to your cutter and is not very noticeable to the eye.

#4 For large projects set the curve quality to low.

#5 If you have a humidifier or swamp cooler(for the summer) USE them to raise the humidity to help discharge the static created. (helpful, but not required.)

#6 Make sure your settings look like this in your production manager;
Bits per second: 9600
Data bits: 8
Parity: none
Stop bits: 1
Flow control: Hardware

Click on job defaults (in flexi click on the knife tab);
Resolution: 1000.000 steps/in
Passes: 1
Knife offset: 0.012in (having this setting wrong will prevent your cutter from completing cuts and leave a tiny piece not cut)
Packet size: 1000kb
Curve quality: medium-low depending on job size.

Fallow all that and you should have a "Normal" plotter that cuts right the first time instead of doing everything twice:cool1:!

Any other questions just ask!

[kilo15170]

So you bought the cheap brand plotter that people have warned you about right? Now it skips cuts diagonal lines and pauses randomly.

Well heres some info that will make your cutter run like a roland (just maybe a little LOUDER)!

First the reasons why these plotters pause sometimes.
#1 static build up and poor grounds are the number one cause for this.
#2 The packet size in your software is set by default at waay too low sizes so you computer is constantly sending tiny packets to the cutter which =pausing to catch up.
#3 Your curve settings are (again by default) too high.

Those are the major reasons for the problems you experience with these plotters.

These are ways to fix them;

#1 Make sure your machine is grounded correctly, preferably to its own outlet. Some people have reported that they have to turn off their computer to plot and the reason for this is all your equipment is sharing one ground and for some reason master cutters create a rediculous amount of static.

#2 Go into your production manager and check your packet settings, in flexi it is set at 8kb by default, go ahead and bump that number up to 1000kb. The master cutters have between 2-4mb buffer size so dont exceed 2mb.

#3 Go into production manager again and set you curve quality to medium or low setting, this will dramatically lessen the packet being sent to your cutter and is not very noticeable to the eye.

#4 For large projects set the curve quality to low.

#5 If you have a humidifier or swamp cooler(for the summer) USE them to raise the humidity to help discharge the static created. (helpful, but not required.)

#6 Make sure your settings look like this in your production manager;
Bits per second: 9600
Data bits: 8
Parity: none
Stop bits: 1
Flow control: Hardware

Click on job defaults (in flexi click on the knife tab);
Resolution: 1000.000 steps/in
Passes: 1
Knife offset: 0.012in (having this setting wrong will prevent your cutter from completing cuts and leave a tiny piece not cut)
Packet size: 1000kb
Curve quality: medium-low depending on job size.

Fallow all that and you should have a "Normal" plotter that cuts right the first time instead of doing everything twice:cool1:!

Any other questions just ask!

My eBay plotter for me did the job for the past year. for the most part i had it figured out ok. after following this, my cut quality is extremely better! :thankyou: a million!!!

[signmeup]

You saved my life with this info. Thanks a lot!!! :D :D

I have another situation with my RedSail Cutting plotter, when set the Knife Offset to 0.012 on Flexy, when i hit the "show me button" y measures right but when i hit SEND. its cuts very close to the edge of the vinyl. even thought the design its centered.

Any Helpt will be appreciated.

Thank you.

Knife offset has nothing to do with where the plotter starts cutting. It will start cutting at the lower right corner of your cutting software. You can position the knife with the plotter buttons to some other spot on the vinyl.

[mountaingraphic]

Thanks so much for the info! I buy all the local cutters from people who don't seem to make it in the business. Great way of getting equipment and supplies CHEAP! I bought 15 rolls of vinyl, 3 stacks of cds, the master xy-1000 with the stand and stacks of blades really cheap.

I mostly use them for backups or for different functions as I do tshirts as well so thanks again for the knowledge to get the most out of my device.

Also to make note of the blade offset, this is not a set number for each machine unfortunantly. Everyone will have a little different setting to which this needs to be. You can give a starting point however others may need to adjust depending on each machine.

[andy]

Superior tangential cutting action with lifting blade holder, precision friction feed PLUS a width adjustable sprocket system. Heavy duty servo motors, electronics which cost a fortune....

If you're going to buy used plotters why waste money on the Chinese stuff which was $hit even when brand new?

Having made the mistake of buying a cheap Chinese backup machine I'm buying up as many old Vytek machines as I can get my hands on.... 1m wide cutting for the same price as a cr@ppy Chinese machine.