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View Full Version : Mimaki Cutter SUCKS!



TheSnowman
03-28-2008, 06:57 PM
Ok, don't know if you can tell in this picture that well...but what I'm dealing with is that anytime I have to cut anything longer than like 3ft. my stupid cutter won't cut along the line. This was an 8'ft long run. I haven't EVER been able to do an 8ft cut that well in the 2 years I've had the machine, but it's just getting stupid now. Anyone have ANY ideas on this. I just don't see how it can skew, ESPECIALLY when it's compensating by finding the crop marks. Sometimes I can get away w/ a bleed, but couldn't do that on this project. Even then, it'd have to be a 10 - 15 pt. bleed sometimes.

Ken Sankey
03-28-2008, 07:23 PM
What model plotter do you have?

Fuzzbuster
03-28-2008, 07:27 PM
buy a new graphtec 7000

and be done

:rolleyes:

speedmedia
03-28-2008, 07:28 PM
AMEN BROTHER!!!! I am not at all impressed with this POS Mimaki Cutter. I have a CG and have been able to cut some longer files but only with large bleeds sometimes as much as 60 points! It is no more than a overpriced paperweight.

On top of this anytime I need a part or I need service on it suddenly my vendor I purchased it from can "never" figure out the problems.

Needless to say I will never buy from them nor will I ever buy a Mimaki cutter again.

Thanks,
Kurt Dietrich
Speed Media

N2Harpz
03-28-2008, 10:30 PM
We have a Mimaki CG 6. It works like a dream. It's probably 10+ years old.

Knock on wood !!!

signmeup
03-28-2008, 10:55 PM
Get a Desay.:biggrin:

thewood
03-29-2008, 01:29 AM
We have a 160 FX that works great including contour cuts. Before this one, we had another Mimaki for 12 years or so. It still runs great.

TheSnowman
03-29-2008, 01:48 AM
This is a 130FX I believe...if that's what it is. Something FX sounds right. I've never had 100% success w/ it, but several other mimaki owners say they have no trouble at all.

OldPaint
03-29-2008, 03:48 AM
95% of computer and component problems......... ARE OPERATOR ERROR)))))))))))))

TheSnowman
03-29-2008, 09:01 AM
95% of computer and component problems......... ARE OPERATOR ERROR)))))))))))))

HEY! That's one of my most used quotes! DOH!

gabagoo
03-29-2008, 02:37 PM
Man if I had that type of problem I would never use it to cut large graphics and do them by hand. good luck, I know how frustrating it can be dealing with these issues.

eforer
03-29-2008, 10:18 PM
I've never had a problem on even much larger runs. Try using larger registration marks, and slowing the detection and cut down a hair.

Case
04-01-2008, 05:47 PM
This is a 130FX I believe...if that's what it is. Something FX sounds right. I've never had 100% success w/ it, but several other mimaki owners say they have no trouble at all.

Are you doing your contour cutting out of Onyx or the Finecut plugin for your Mimaki? If you are having registration issues with Onyx, then I would try the plugin Finecut(which works out of Illustrator or Corel) for your Mimaki plotter. Mimaki plotters and Cut Server tend to have issues...


Case

TheSnowman
04-01-2008, 05:50 PM
Are you doing your contour cutting out of Onyx or the Finecut plugin for your Mimaki? If you are having registration issues with Onyx, then I would try the plugin Finecut(which works out of Illustrator or Corel) for your Mimaki plotter. Mimaki plotters and Cut Server tend to have issues...


Case

I really hadn't thought about trying it w/ FineCut. Actually, I'm really not even sure how to go about doing that. How do you tell it find the registration marks? Do you just set the plotter like you normally do for CutServer?

Tim D
04-01-2008, 05:52 PM
95% of computer and component problems......... ARE OPERATOR ERROR)))))))))))))


We call that a picnic error.

Problem In Chair Not In Computer

eforer
04-02-2008, 03:19 AM
We call that a picnic error.

Problem In Chair Not In Computer

Thats awesome!

Case
04-03-2008, 02:51 AM
I really hadn't thought about trying it w/ FineCut. Actually, I'm really not even sure how to go about doing that. How do you tell it find the registration marks? Do you just set the plotter like you normally do for CutServer?

Shoot me your email and I have a document for full directions on setup and usage for Finecut. It's easy to do...

Case

cptcorn
04-03-2008, 05:13 PM
I would have to agree that Anything beyond 8-10' it becomes extremely less accurate. When the plotter detects the registration marks does it adjust where it cuts after the detection process?

I cut everything except prints from onyx using finecut, but i cant seem to find out where you'd enter the code, or load the xml file.

eforer
04-03-2008, 06:04 PM
Use fine cut and use 10mm marks. When the marks are smaller, the detection tends to suck. Also, set the mark detect speed slower. If the blade point isn't bullseyed over the origin registration mark after the detect, your marks are too small for the size of the job, or your detect speeds are too high and you'll have problems. We just did some 15 foot long pieces no problem.

Most of the complaints seem to be from those using flexi or onyx for their contour cutting. Try fine cut.

thesignexpert
04-03-2008, 08:53 PM
Use fine cut and use 10mm marks. When the marks are smaller, the detection tends to suck. Also, set the mark detect speed slower. If the blade point isn't bullseyed over the origin registration mark after the detect, your marks are too small for the size of the job, or your detect speeds are too high and you'll have problems. We just did some 15 foot long pieces no problem.

Most of the complaints seem to be from those using flexi or onyx for their contour cutting. Try fine cut.

Also, call your tech support (I bought mine from Grimco and they are great). My technician walked me thru a couple of tweaks to the on board settings...
1. Slowing the head speed down
2. There is an option on the pinch wheels to increase the grip pressure (little levers on the back)
3. change electronic eye to look for only 1 (lower right) registration mark
4. Use FineCut software settings to locate the four registration marks when sending the plot data

Long story short, our Mimaki has no trouble at all now and regularly runs 15'-20' projects with excellent precision.

Hope that helps.

Tim Evans

The Sign Expert .com (http://www.thesignexpert.com)
"Practical Help for Sign Professionals"

Pro Sign and Graphics (http://www.prosignandgraphics.com)
"A Pro Sign made Easy"

zuboltz
04-04-2008, 11:29 AM
Can anyone tell me why I can not plot vinyl with a paper backer. I have just bought my CG-130FX and can plot plastic backed vinyl not problem, but paper is another story. I can not get the settings right and it weeds terrible. It does not seam to cut enough or cut through the paper or both.
can anyone tell me what settings there are using?
thanks

cptcorn
04-04-2008, 11:34 AM
Interesting. By no means do I think my Mimaki equipment sucks. The only complaints I have are the result of lack of knowledge...

Anyways, about finecut. I use that to cut all my non printed materials. How would go about setting it up to cut prints that are printed through onyx. I'm used to entering in the code, etc.

One thing I've noticed is there is a lot of drifting when the sheet size is 10'+ however, I can run 40'+ of unprinted/laminated material through there daily without a second thought. It's weird because it will be the last 5' of the print that drifts over the most... its kinda weird...

I have a print from onyx with registration marks right now... Just waiting to see what you guys suggest.

zuboltz
04-04-2008, 11:40 AM
forgot to mention I use finecut

eforer
04-04-2008, 02:51 PM
Thats not really going to be a plotter hardware problem as much as it is a blade depth/pressure adjustment. Also, are you on the right cutter strip?

zuboltz
04-04-2008, 04:01 PM
it is on the right strip, one question, how far out should the blade be sticking out of the holder?

TheSnowman
04-04-2008, 04:06 PM
it is on the right strip, one question, how far out should the blade be sticking out of the holder?

Just get a piece of vinyl, and have it stick out just enough that it cuts it. If you go much more than that, it's gonna be goofy. That's just my experience.

Rip and print guy
06-02-2008, 04:37 PM
On long runs like that, 3' or more slow your speed down and you won't be disapointed.

ChicagoGraphics
06-02-2008, 06:28 PM
You shouldn't see the blade at all when it's in the blade holder, if you can feel it sticking you have to much.

xpress
06-06-2008, 01:20 PM
I have had my CG-130 FX for several years and it has treated me great. The only issue that I had ever had with the plotter was trying to keep up with it myself. I agree with Rip Print Gey and Chicago Graphics. Slow your speed down on your plotter and check that blade holder. You stated that you were not using the Mimaki add on Fine Cut, so my question to you would be, How did the other program detect the reg marks and were they being printed at the same size as that the plotter was detecting. I have cut material around 15 to 20 feet with no problems. I use the fine cut 6 on my system with Adobe CS3 extended. My second question is how you are loading you material. Do you have your roll stays in front of the roll or to the rear of the roll and are you feeding the material around the back bar before loading. Final Question what height is you roll holders at. There are a number of reasons this could be happening. It is always the simple things that bring a big issue. Just make the damn thing work:doh:

TheSnowman
06-06-2008, 01:39 PM
I'm using Cut Server. I've never found a good way to use FineCut except for just cutting regular vinyl, not the printed stuff. I normally don't have anything on a roll when it's being cut...cause the first thing it does is unrolls itself. I've tried adjusting the height's of the rollers too. It's not really really bad...but it's just not QUITE right.

xpress
06-07-2008, 12:41 AM
I use cs3 and the way i perform a cut on printed image is: I design my layout in Illistrator adding the paths that I want, then I use the rectangle tool to outline the image, I go to the fine cut and click on the add regestration mark option, then the rectangle becomes the regestration, send it to the rasterlink print, then to the ploter, load the media in the ploter use the registration marks to line the media up, make sure the pinch wheels are away from the marks ( this does not include the center wheel it can be placed where needed) load as roll , after the plotter has finished loading place the red light in the center corner of the registration mark the press enter, it will detect the marks, hit enter twice and then remote, go to fine cut and hit plot rotate the image if needed so it is the same as the media in the plotter, click on the detect registration option, make sure to enter the number of copies you have printed ( media between the four registration marks being one copy) then click on plott then click on ok and wallah she will be on her way to maken you happy !!!! Hope this helps