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View Full Version : Mounting prints that are larger than substrate, Best method?


scarface
03-15-2010, 03:35 AM
Hey guys, Monday (today) I'll be mounting 2 prints onto a 2x8' sheet of aluminum which has overhang for trimming.

The prints are 30" wide and the substrate is 24".

What do you all think would be the easiest way to mount the prints so they are straight on the substrate that's pre-cut?

I'm thinking maybe, lining up the print, tape it in the middle, hinging it in half and using my BS to do each half.

The adhesive is acrylic permanent, can i even wet app it some?

Any help would be appreciated! :popcorn:

iSign
03-15-2010, 04:26 AM
I never heard about acrylic adhesive until you posted about it yesterday, so I imagine there are others who are also not familiar with it. I mention that because you told us yesterday that the manufacturer says NOT to apply wet, however today you just ask us out here in the peanut gallery if it's ok, and you don't even mention the manufacturer warning. You may get someone to say yes, do it wet... but they may not have noticed the mention of acrylic adhesive, or know anything about it.

As for technique, i would trim it down to 24.5" I see no reason to mount a print 6" wider then the substrate without trimming it first. 1/2" is plenty of extra to ensure good coverage. 1/4' should be enough once you get more confident.

I like to cut a few 1 or 2" x 25" strips of same thickness material as your substrate, & use some banner tape to mount this on the table at each end of your substrate. This way i can use a tape hinge (or peel back the print liner) & start the BS mounting from one end.

back on the topic of the wet application, I never use wet apps with the BS, and you shouldn't either. If you cut off 5-1/2' of your prints though... you could always do a wet app test.

sjm
03-15-2010, 09:21 AM
Do you mean a solvent acrylic adhesive?

MikePro
03-15-2010, 10:38 AM
my trick is dbl.sided tape tabs in the 4 corners to lineup/secure print in place.
then remove 2 tabs, use the other 2 as your hinge to apply ~6in of your graphic on the other end, and then just use that applied side as your hinge to apply the rest.
i'm a fan of wrapping my printed graphics around the edges of MDO boards, so I do this all the time.

javila
03-15-2010, 02:26 PM
Like isign mentioned, trim it down to only 1/2" or 1" bleed. It's actually easier to align this way.

We actually only leave bleed on two sides, and then force align the two sides with no bleed, you'll get less issues with skewing.

sjm
03-15-2010, 06:52 PM
my trick is dbl.sided tape tabs in the 4 corners to lineup/secure print in place.
then remove 2 tabs, use the other 2 as your hinge to apply ~6in of your graphic on the other end, and then just use that applied side as your hinge to apply the rest.
i'm a fan of wrapping my printed graphics around the edges of MDO boards, so I do this all the time.

Agreed, crop marks help too. Also a 2" core on hand for mounting to wider surfaces .ie rolling up the graphic, then removing just enough liner before squeegeeing lends to a more professional.

StopSignGraphics
03-15-2010, 07:00 PM
I like wrapping the edges too. I'll hide 4 small registration marks in the print showing the corners of what I'm mounting too. I'll line up the registration marks to the corners and either use tape or several weights to secure the print in place. Usually I'll just cut off about 6 inches of the backer to get started. After that's secured, I'll remove the weights or tape and roll up the print and use my big squeegee or apply the rest by hand.

Malkin
03-16-2010, 01:27 AM
I believe what you are calling acrylic adhesive I have also seen called water-based adhesive by others, like Oracal. We have wet app'ed these, but only on short term coro signs. If the manufacturer says not to, then I wouldn't, if it needs to last.

It's easy to apply big prints by yourself using a 2" or 3" tube. I bet the big squeegee is even easier.

Salmoneye
03-16-2010, 01:32 AM
Trim to within an inch. Tape her down, roll er up and run the big squeegee the whole length. This is the BS's strong suit. It is how I mount my 4' x 8's with 54" material.

Salmoneye
03-16-2010, 01:35 AM
Sorry, I didn't read the adhesive part and now I have no idea. The above method is just how we mount our regular prints.

scarface
03-16-2010, 03:25 AM
I never said you cannot mount this adhesive wet, that's what i heard on the forum in another thread and i was trying to find out more support on that.

I called General Formulations today and they said you can dry or wet app it.

I mounted both signs today, i used light app fluid and the BS and it went on pretty good.

Had about 45 mins in mounting each sign and trimming them up, not bad for first time i suppose.

sjm
03-16-2010, 06:35 PM
I believe what you are calling acrylic adhesive I have also seen called water-based adhesive by others, like Oracal. We have wet app'ed these, but only on short term coro signs. If the manufacturer says not to, then I wouldn't, if it needs to last.

It's easy to apply big prints by yourself using a 2" or 3" tube. I bet the big squeegee is even easier.

Only two choices, solvent or aqueous acrylic adhesive. I wouldn't recommend aqueous acrylic for glass surfaces. Though for wet mounting using an aqueous acrylic based vinyl for curved surfaces indoors it works just fine. Nothing overly large however.

GraphixCALC
03-16-2010, 07:35 PM
I think that almost all run-o-the-mill vinyl has some form of an acrylic adhesive, whether solvent or water based.

sjm
03-17-2010, 08:34 PM
You're right, for less critical work I will use an aqueous based acrylic. For more important work I will only use a solvent based acrylic from a brand name manufacturer. For me it just makes good sense.

PressPrintGraphics
03-17-2010, 10:55 PM
I print most of my stuff about 1/2" oversize, peel back first 3" or so of liner, flip over and line up the other end with equal over hang on sides and bottom, then stick the top and roll with it from then on. Works great..