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  #1  
Old 07-08-2009, 03:27 PM
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houseofgrafix houseofgrafix is offline
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2010 Camaro Racing Stripes. Anyone done time?

I have one coming tomorrow for a install.
They are the dealer provided ones.

Any tips or problems?
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2009, 03:49 PM
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Yeah we did one a few weeks back. Make sure you have the tools needed to take the back spoiler off or have the dealer take it off, because the stripes tuck under it. Inside the trunk are plastic plugs holding the trunk liner on that needs to be removed in order to get to the bolts holding the spoiler on. We didn't have the tool to take them off, but the dealer did.

Other then that, it's not too bad. If you are doing matte stripes, the factory matte kit is a little tricky to work with on the hood, but not too bad. Everything is clearly marked and easy to layout and there is no roof to do, so it's 2-3 hour job easy maybe less if you normally do this type of work.
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  #3  
Old 07-08-2009, 04:08 PM
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OH and make sure you take it around the block a few times. You know, to air out the stripes.
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  #4  
Old 07-08-2009, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Diaz View Post
Yeah we did one a few weeks back. Make sure you have the tools needed to take the back spoiler off or have the dealer take it off, because the stripes tuck under it. Inside the trunk are plastic plugs holding the trunk liner on that needs to be removed in order to get to the bolts holding the spoiler on. We didn't have the tool to take them off, but the dealer did.

Other then that, it's not too bad. If you are doing matte stripes, the factory matte kit is a little tricky to work with on the hood, but not too bad. Everything is clearly marked and easy to layout and there is no roof to do, so it's 2-3 hour job easy maybe less if you normally do this type of work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Diaz View Post
OH and make sure you take it around the block a few times. You know, to air out the stripes.

Sounds good to me! The dealership sent a YouTube video showing me how to do. I laughed and said it could not be any harder then the newer mustangs


I'm hoping its SS or something worth driving!
Need to get my mullet wig ready
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  #5  
Old 07-08-2009, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by houseofgrafix View Post
Sounds good to me! The dealership sent a YouTube video showing me how to do. I laughed and said it could not be any harder then the newer mustangs
I'd say it's way easier than the mustang. I have an 07 mustang and I did stripes on it too. The camaro went a lot quicker, especially since you don't have to go over the bumpers like you do on the stang.
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  #6  
Old 07-22-2009, 02:53 PM
scott pagan scott pagan is offline
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i have

i installed this one about 3 weeks ago. very nice SS. he wanted custom rally style all the way down the front. the rear is trunk deck lid over spoiler to just above the taillights (no roof). the bumpers and spoilers do flare in/out so a straight stripe does not work. these are all in sections, applied dry. he came back last week w a new ground kit and i extended it another 3" lower (not pictured). also added "SS" under the side badges and the "shark gill" vents fill-in on the side rear qtrs.

it turned out very nice, he was super stoked.
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  #7  
Old 07-22-2009, 02:57 PM
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I just stopped and looked at a new fully loaded silver one, SS with the stripes on it. V8 450 hp. I came so close to buying that car on the spot. Decisions, decisions? More CNC machines or nice cars????? I'm so torn.
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  #8  
Old 07-22-2009, 03:02 PM
signpro signpro is offline
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i tinted one last week... easy to tint, just a long sloped back window that is a little tough to get to the very bottom. I know, i'm no help with your striping issue, i just felt left out. however, it WAS STRIPED ALREADY!!! not sure if they ordered it, or if the dealership put them on. but they looked great! charcoal stripes on a black car!

bad pic, i know... but its the only one where you can notice the stripes. i liked it anyways.
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  #9  
Old 07-22-2009, 03:24 PM
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I'm buying one.....
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  #10  
Old 07-22-2009, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synergy_jim View Post
I'm buying one.....
Users on Camaro5 forum created a list of stuff to check before taking delivery of their cars --- disclaimer -- no on actually experienced every issue but these are a combined list of isolated experiences people had:

seems like a pretty long list man

001. Loose Bolts that hold fluid back causing leaks (ex: on oil pan, tranny fluid)
002. Trunk Locking mechanism (issues with opening w/o adding down pressure to top of trunk first and/or emergency release appears to be loose keeping the trunk from locking properly)
003. Loose plastic paneling around the 4-gauges cluster, launch control, cigarette power plug as well as Left and Right A-Pillars Trim Loose, sill trim loose, and dash pannel where doors and dash meet popping open.
004. Loose Spoiler/installed correctly (Re-torque Spoiler bolts)
005. Wiper transmission cable overheating from engine causing a short circuit.
006. Matching Headlight Halos strength. (one defective being dimmer then the other).
007. Mismatched paint on parts of the vehicle (including gas door). As well as paint runs or clear coat runs. Paint Chips.
008. Loose Rocker Panel "Chevrolet" causing it to peel off.
009. Minor Problem With Window Indexing.
010. Ambient Lighting on doors defective.
011. Bad radiator (leaks).
012. Hood release/latch issues (won't unhook to open the hood).
013. Gap at base of ONStar Antenna.
014. Battery cable routing near the starter has been done.
015. Digital Speedometer is off. Also keeps going on and off.
016. Bottom pulley shakes and needs replacement per dealer.
017. Broken tranny.
018. Ignition Mechanism Issue with key getting stuck in car.
019. Non RS taillights installed on RS equipped cars (all 4 of them).
020. Rocker Panel aligned with body and clipped in correctly.
021. Bumper rubs with body
022. Trunk opens with switch and remote
023. Correct speedo/tach gauge ring color
023. Ambient lighting on drivers door as bright as passenger door
024. Doors gaps /alignment
025. Dirt/bubbles in rally stripes
026. Door panel not scratched from seat belt.
027. Shift knobs wearing out extremely fast could be faulty material
028. AC system stops blowing cold air in random durations, most likely blockage in AC drainage and/or AC draining into the car instead of beneath it
029. Clunking noise in changing gears
030. Trunk opens with remote and laser cut key
031. USB drive and aux port works
032. Squeaky Breaks
033. GFX installed correctly
034. Rims and tires in good condition (coming off carrier in bad condition/damaged)
035. Check for damage in the interior, basic procedure
036. Check the locking mechanism of both doors
037. Scraping sound for a second when backing up
038. SS emblem on trunk is loose
039. Loose interior windshield trim loose
040. The front GFX lip is not coming loose at the double sided tape
041. The front passenger brake rotors are not wearing with a dark colored groove
042. Hood latch handle on inside of cab doesn't retract properly (just hangs)
043. Scratches in seats
044. Oil cooler leaking
045. Once in every 10-15 times I unlock the car, the drivers side door is still locked, while
the locking knob on the door is in the "up" position
046. Faulty as gauge (improper readings)
047. Missing paint around the headlights
048. Bleed screw on clutch slave cylinder loose
049. Stickers on rockers peeling
050. Scratches on window pillars
051. Misaligned body & door panels as well as hood not centered properly (more to one side then the other)
052. Alignment of doors to dash interior the door interior seems to sag below the dash interior
053. Drivers side roof light( the one with the toggle switch) only works when its toggled over to the passenger side
054. Door sill decals peeling up
055. Paint swirls in driver/passenger door
056. Drive-shaft connection to the differential cracking when dropping the clutch
057. Tach Needle Sticking
058. Wiper motor wiring comes through bottom of the cowling-well in front of the driver. (The fix (decided upon between the dealer and myself) was to re-insulate the wires, cover the harness with a hard, slick plastic covering, drill a small hole in the bottom of the cowling-well (fill the hole with silicone) and use a cable tie down like the rest of the wiper harness uses to secure the harness to the floor of the cowling (the grommet will collapse downward with little force), far away from harm from the wiper arms.)
059. engine makes continuous clicking noise, starting roughly 5 seconds after engine starts
060. Door Sill plates wrinkled on outside edges (both sides)
061. Trunk gasket at bottom of rear window coming off
062. Uneven Dash (driver's side dash is lower then passenger's side)
063. Passenger/Driver's side Fender alignment off. (wheel cover well had to come off, then loosen fender bolt, and it pops right in place)
064. Key won't stay in folded position
065. Faulty Tail lights.
066. Weather stripping at back of rear windows loose (I can literally grab and peel it back).
067. Missing or peeling paint between trunk lid and spoiler (right rear section)—could possibly spread over time down the trunk lid.
068. Driver's seat makes clicking noises when set all the way back.
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  #11  
Old 07-22-2009, 03:58 PM
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synergy_jim synergy_jim is offline
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Location: Strasburg, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houseofgrafix View Post
Users on Camaro5 forum created a list of stuff to check before taking delivery of their cars --- disclaimer -- no on actually experienced every issue but these are a combined list of isolated experiences people had:

seems like a pretty long list man

001. Loose Bolts that hold fluid back causing leaks (ex: on oil pan, tranny fluid)
002. Trunk Locking mechanism (issues with opening w/o adding down pressure to top of trunk first and/or emergency release appears to be loose keeping the trunk from locking properly)
003. Loose plastic paneling around the 4-gauges cluster, launch control, cigarette power plug as well as Left and Right A-Pillars Trim Loose, sill trim loose, and dash pannel where doors and dash meet popping open.
004. Loose Spoiler/installed correctly (Re-torque Spoiler bolts)
005. Wiper transmission cable overheating from engine causing a short circuit.
006. Matching Headlight Halos strength. (one defective being dimmer then the other).
007. Mismatched paint on parts of the vehicle (including gas door). As well as paint runs or clear coat runs. Paint Chips.
008. Loose Rocker Panel "Chevrolet" causing it to peel off.
009. Minor Problem With Window Indexing.
010. Ambient Lighting on doors defective.
011. Bad radiator (leaks).
012. Hood release/latch issues (won't unhook to open the hood).
013. Gap at base of ONStar Antenna.
014. Battery cable routing near the starter has been done.
015. Digital Speedometer is off. Also keeps going on and off.
016. Bottom pulley shakes and needs replacement per dealer.
017. Broken tranny.
018. Ignition Mechanism Issue with key getting stuck in car.
019. Non RS taillights installed on RS equipped cars (all 4 of them).
020. Rocker Panel aligned with body and clipped in correctly.
021. Bumper rubs with body
022. Trunk opens with switch and remote
023. Correct speedo/tach gauge ring color
023. Ambient lighting on drivers door as bright as passenger door
024. Doors gaps /alignment
025. Dirt/bubbles in rally stripes
026. Door panel not scratched from seat belt.
027. Shift knobs wearing out extremely fast could be faulty material
028. AC system stops blowing cold air in random durations, most likely blockage in AC drainage and/or AC draining into the car instead of beneath it
029. Clunking noise in changing gears
030. Trunk opens with remote and laser cut key
031. USB drive and aux port works
032. Squeaky Breaks
033. GFX installed correctly
034. Rims and tires in good condition (coming off carrier in bad condition/damaged)
035. Check for damage in the interior, basic procedure
036. Check the locking mechanism of both doors
037. Scraping sound for a second when backing up
038. SS emblem on trunk is loose
039. Loose interior windshield trim loose
040. The front GFX lip is not coming loose at the double sided tape
041. The front passenger brake rotors are not wearing with a dark colored groove
042. Hood latch handle on inside of cab doesn't retract properly (just hangs)
043. Scratches in seats
044. Oil cooler leaking
045. Once in every 10-15 times I unlock the car, the drivers side door is still locked, while
the locking knob on the door is in the "up" position
046. Faulty as gauge (improper readings)
047. Missing paint around the headlights
048. Bleed screw on clutch slave cylinder loose
049. Stickers on rockers peeling
050. Scratches on window pillars
051. Misaligned body & door panels as well as hood not centered properly (more to one side then the other)
052. Alignment of doors to dash interior the door interior seems to sag below the dash interior
053. Drivers side roof light( the one with the toggle switch) only works when its toggled over to the passenger side
054. Door sill decals peeling up
055. Paint swirls in driver/passenger door
056. Drive-shaft connection to the differential cracking when dropping the clutch
057. Tach Needle Sticking
058. Wiper motor wiring comes through bottom of the cowling-well in front of the driver. (The fix (decided upon between the dealer and myself) was to re-insulate the wires, cover the harness with a hard, slick plastic covering, drill a small hole in the bottom of the cowling-well (fill the hole with silicone) and use a cable tie down like the rest of the wiper harness uses to secure the harness to the floor of the cowling (the grommet will collapse downward with little force), far away from harm from the wiper arms.)
059. engine makes continuous clicking noise, starting roughly 5 seconds after engine starts
060. Door Sill plates wrinkled on outside edges (both sides)
061. Trunk gasket at bottom of rear window coming off
062. Uneven Dash (driver's side dash is lower then passenger's side)
063. Passenger/Driver's side Fender alignment off. (wheel cover well had to come off, then loosen fender bolt, and it pops right in place)
064. Key won't stay in folded position
065. Faulty Tail lights.
066. Weather stripping at back of rear windows loose (I can literally grab and peel it back).
067. Missing or peeling paint between trunk lid and spoiler (right rear section)—could possibly spread over time down the trunk lid.
068. Driver's seat makes clicking noises when set all the way back.
buying Mustang instead..... LOL
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  #12  
Old 07-22-2009, 04:18 PM
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SignManiac SignManiac is online now
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I did look at the Shelby Mustang and I must say, that's a nice car too and the Dodge Challenger R/T is nice also....

Man toys that don't run on AA batteries :) Get your rock off with horse power!
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  #13  
Old 07-22-2009, 04:26 PM
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Todd-sta Todd-sta is offline
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Location: Potterville, MI
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Hey Scott - are the left and right edges of the hood stripe straight line shots, or did they have to *contour* them to look straight to compensate for the raised hood area? Does that make sense? Thanks.
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  #14  
Old 07-22-2009, 04:51 PM
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synergy_jim synergy_jim is offline
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Location: Strasburg, Ohio
Posts: 1,491
well..... not to be a thread pirate, but I just bought a 2008 EVO X. I am looking for a nice car for the wifey now......
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  #15  
Old 07-22-2009, 05:04 PM
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houseofgrafix houseofgrafix is offline
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synergy_jim View Post
well..... not to be a thread pirate, but I just bought a 2008 EVO X. I am looking for a nice car for the wifey now......
Nice but I would have gotten a 9 before that.
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  #16  
Old 07-22-2009, 05:13 PM
onesmf onesmf is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chesterland, OH
Posts: 118
I used to dig fancy cars too, however have relegated my thought process toward keeping money in my bank account and pocket. Knock me around if you want, but I opted to purchase a Honda Fit and will never look back. Currently "geeking" 50 miles a gallon. Saving tons of dough. I guess when you have a wife and family, your public perception no longer matters. All beautiful vehicles, but in the long run they are non-sentient pieces of metal that do nothing but make you dependent on foreign oil and empty your pocket book. Let me have it!
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  #17  
Old 07-22-2009, 05:34 PM
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racershawn racershawn is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: hampton va
Posts: 226
I have done 10 to date 8 with rallie stripes and 2 with hockey stripes ... getting $200 - $300 per install depending on how big a rush they are in ... takes about 1 hr to do the whole install .... PS great car!!! If i did not have two race cars I and a victory vision i would get one ...LOL
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2009, 07:58 AM
scott pagan scott pagan is offline
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Location: charlotte, nc
Posts: 117
Todd, there is a slight curve to the outer edges to keep a straight line look. the stripes taper from over the hood scoop down to a much narrower size at the bottom of the ground kit. the center gap stays consistant, as do the 1/4" pinstripe on the outside lines.
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  #19  
Old 07-25-2009, 12:31 AM
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Todd-sta Todd-sta is offline
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Thanks much Scott!
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  #20  
Old 07-25-2009, 02:29 AM
trimguy trimguy is offline
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Location: Hawaii
Posts: 42
These cars arrive without the graphics. There is a need for installers for these at the chevy dealers Watch the tunneling on those factory premasks!


we also do a lot of these *removed offsite images*

Last edited by BobbyFosson; 02-06-2010 at 01:31 PM. Reason: Removal offsite images
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  #21  
Old 07-25-2009, 04:02 AM
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There apiece o cake. I did eightof them last weekfor a local dealership, got it down to about an hour and twenty minutes a car.
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  #22  
Old 07-25-2009, 07:59 AM
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Pat Whatley Pat Whatley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SignManiac View Post
I just stopped and looked at a new fully loaded silver one, SS with the stripes on it. V8 450 hp. I came so close to buying that car on the spot. Decisions, decisions? More CNC machines or nice cars????? I'm so torn.
More CNC machines will make you the money to buy new cars. New cars will not make you the money to buy CNC machines.
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UPDATED
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  #23  
Old 07-28-2009, 05:47 PM
LindyM LindyM is offline
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Tint, Smoked headlights,strips, turn signals and foglights. Matte black emblems
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  #24  
Old 07-28-2009, 06:56 PM
grafikguy grafikguy is offline
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Location: OT, Maine
Posts: 24
They're right. This is an EASY install compared to the mustangs. The stripes are very good quality, are well marked and packaged, and install nicely with rapidtak. I've done about 15 of these for the local dealership. I told them I'd charge just labor rate at $50/hr and any travel. Usually takes me about an hour and works out to about $65 a car. I thought that was fair enough, then I heard that they can't find anyone to do them for less than $400 per car in the southern part of the state. So, guess what...they're sending ALL of them up for me to install. This was one of those OH CRAP moments when you realize you should have charged more. Wonder what they'd say if I up my rate to $200/HR?
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  #25  
Old 02-06-2010, 01:25 PM
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extremegraffix extremegraffix is offline
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i have been working with two dealerships on these decals and the dealers have been issued a labor rate from GM on what kind of time it would take to install the factory stripes. i am making out like a bandit on the hockey stripe install because they take less time and pay 20% more for the installation. the racing stipes are managable, but still a bit tricky on the hoods. i am being paid as if i were doing warranty work for the dealerships and still making good money for the installs.
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  #26  
Old 02-06-2010, 02:58 PM
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Poor man's Corvette, I will stick with my '66 Stingray. Even if it does not have air cond....
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  #27  
Old 02-07-2010, 12:03 PM
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Patrick46 Patrick46 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Diaz View Post
OH and make sure you take it around the block a few times. You know, to air out the stripes.
The floor of my shop is COVERED with black patches. These darn high performance cars my customers keep bringin me keep leaving these marks all over the place!

(Gawd, how I love that smell!)
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