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Update. I've made a completely new profile from scratch and this time, adjusted the ink limits. A printing buddy gave me the tip to check the per-channel ink gradients with a spectrometer and take note of where the chroma levels off, then set the ink limit there. I've set my ink limits to...
Optimize is already off, that part of the window is only used if Custom Black Point is on.
I've tried using GCR before and it didn't seem to have much of an effect, unfortunately.
All printers involved are brand sparkling new, lamp glasses are cleaned routinely.
Head alignment is pretty darn solid and is generally not something I want to touch myself, not in the least for warranty reasons.
Unfortunately I can't choose different inks or any of the settings you mentioned.
I'm not entirely sure which of the settings I should send a pic of, so I'll just send whatever I can export.
The little peak at the end of the K splitting curve does seem like it may be relevant, but I don't think I can actually edit that curve now.
I have no idea what "splitting" even is...
Welp, alright. It's at least good to know that I probably shouldn't waste more time trying to get around it then :)
On a similar note, do you happen to know what's the best way to deal with gloss banding? I hope it's not a similar kind of "that's just how it is" kind of deal but I fear the worst :P
Nope, I wasn't aware.
The layer thickness difference itself isn't a problem to us, it's just that it's got a very sudden onset and as a result, it creates very visible edges in otherwise linear gradients. The darkest ~15% of a perceptually linear gradient exhibits this sudden thickness...
For context, we use a Fuji Acuity Prime 20 printer with UV inks on white ACB (CMYK only), together with PrintFactory RIP software.
I have no formal education in printing, though I did follow a couple color calibration courses from our printer supplier.
A problem we've had for a long time is...
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