Question about Clear Vinyl

[D4rkmap]

I know for the most part you need to either have a printer that can print white ink or overlay white, but I was wondering if we are using white polycarbinate would I need to apply the white still? We have the non white Latex 700 so I know I can possibly print on clear. I am just trying to find a better alternative for Briteline translucent because I have really bad bubble issues with it.

 

[weyandsign]

I can't answer about the clear vinyl, but I will say the Briteline translucent adhesive is very aggressive, and if you wet apply and add more soap to the water you shouldn't have a lot of bubbles. I usually do 12 drops of dish soap in a spray bottle of water and not get many bubbles.

 

[Zendavor Signs]

The correct way to make a backlit print is to have 2 layers of color print with a white layer in between. That way you see 1 layer of color during the day, and 2 layers (when you need the extra saturation) when lit up. Color-white-color inkjet prints are the best way. Putting a layer of color on 1 side of white acrylic and another on the back is another way.

 

[JBurton]

Just pick up a roll of Arlon 4500G Clear (gotta spec clear, also comes in white, which just cuts down on light transmission if you already have a white face.), print two copies, one mirrored, and stick the mirrored copy to the back of the panel. This won't work with really intricate prints, but works well for both large chunky graphics and 'busy' prints without a ton of high contrast parts beside one another. Only thing, 4500 likes to curl if the edge is exposed, so only use this in signs with trim, and don't contour cut. If the need arises, arlon 6000RP clear doesn't curl.

 

[Boudica]

We print on clear and mount to white lexan all the time. Typically we will double strike so it's not washed out when lit up. We use the Arlon 4500G Clear like Burton mentioned.

 

[MikePro]

when we use white polycarb, we print on clear and apply to the face, and then apply a reverse-printed clear on the backside for color saturation while illuminated.
some people will oversaturate their print to save this extra step, and simply apply one print to the face, but it looks DARK during non-illumination.

 

[ColorCrest]

The correct way to make a backlit print is to have 2 layers of color print with a white layer in between. That way you see 1 layer of color during the day, and 2 layers (when you need the extra saturation) when lit up. Color-white-color inkjet prints are the best way. Putting a layer of color on 1 side of white acrylic and another on the back is another way.

The term "backlit" usually means something particular as does the term "day / night."

From EFI VUTEk; "If the print is only going to be backlit, a three layer or white ink file is not necessary. In most instances, a simple file that is set to double strike, or creating a two-layer file with no white, will suffice."

The key here is that EFI is mimicking the legacy of previous photographic processes and also using a superior media much as before, polyester films, both translucent or clear options as desired. Also, the double strike mimics the longer exposure required by the previous photographic films.

Ideally, day / night does require two sided printing but the superior media is again the polyester translucent or clear, ink receptor on both sides. White ink is not necessary.

"Question about Clear Vinyl"
Polyester is dimensionally stable as is acrylic as is acrylic adhesive when used together. Vinyl, not so much. Polyester is rather stiff and may not need adhesive at all when sandwiched between a backer and face. An aqueous print usually resists sticking to a face. I'm guessing more backlits are produced using aqueous printers than solvent so far as items, but not overall square feet because grand format is in use as well.