Recent content by bgraphics

Wasn't the 2/3 way air valve. Replaced both subtanks - doesn't seem to the problem.

Heard back from Mimaki USA... could be “the 2/3 way air valve that sits above the heads. There is a diaphragm in it that can fail and cause this issue, but will most likely give an error message but not always.” Confirmed there is only one that controls both heads. Seems to fit the scenario...

The machine is definitely older than a year and I haven't replaced those. Is it likely that they all would be exhibiting this problem at the same time? I have run air purges on several occasions (on cyan only when we thought it was a Cyan issue). I will try the other channels. Yes, we did...

I've searched for similar issues with this printer on Signs101 and have turned up nothing. Double CMYK configuration. After a clean test draw, we begin printing and after several passes on a photo-realistic print (only just a few passes on a solid color such as C or M or Y or K), nozzles start...

Use aluminum screw posts. They are practically flush on the back. I have used them for mounting acrylic holders to 3mm boards before. You just need to measure thickness of acrylic and board to make sure you get the right depth of screw post.

Thank you

I think it is coming from the left side of the machine... maybe the ball bearing unit in the box that extends below the gantry. Here is a longer video with the sound starting about 1min in.

We came in this morning with the printer vibrating and very loud. Anyone experience this before?

We have been plaqued with our UV lamps not firing up. I have gone 2 routes - purchased lamps from CureUV and swapped in the new bulb - I have also purchased OEM lamp cassettes from DigitprintSupplies. Both instances, the lamps will fire up for about 10 hrs, then nothing. The cureuv bulb will...

You may want to have your machine do a thickness check and compare it to what you know the thickness is of the media. I had the same problem and realized I was printing too high. I use to print at a 2mm head gap until one day i learned the machine thought my media was .5mm thicker than it was...

I've always had pretty poor results with Roland's Solvent Gloss Paper after they switched a few years back from SGP2 to SGP3. I think the ink level may be off on my profile - anything heavily saturated area gets extremely dotty and doesn't dry. What am I doing wrong?

Are any of you having GREAT results with glossy paper OTHER than Roland SGP3? If so, what profile and heat settings are you using?

power surge? We were printing with our JF-1631 flatbed once when the power flickered... the lights turned off, but the printer kept printing as the lights booted back up. Do your lights kick back on?

bad stuff I have found that the white layer of digimag peels up... I hate the stuff. I only work with the traditional magnum magnetics... not their digimag.

White Ink I think not having white ink would be a huge disadvantage... We have a JF-1631 and have had no issues with white ink... we don't use it too often, but without it, we would be at a loss. Imagine being able to print on clear, dark, colored or metallic surfaces! Make sure you have...