Recent content by SBlakey

Make sure your heads are aligned.

Iso is the only thing youll need to clean most things.

You can always turn the heat off on a hot lam, you cant turn it on with a cold. Plus psa lam works better with a 100 degree heat assist. But if you break your rollers they are costly to replace.

Slow it down.

Increase saturation, and run more passes. And run Unipass. That will be a profile issue Id assume

Both machines should have a test cut. I would feed the frosting in and do some test cuts to find the right depth.

Just a kiss. Nothing too bad. The substrate has a slight warp long ways, so I don't think it'll work unless we strap it down really good. And it's not long enough to lose 25in for the warped media profile.

For wrong colors, my steps would be open the files and see if the pantones are the same. I'd check for transparency issues next. This can all be done in acrobat with Quite Imposing. If you check the colors in the file using the ink tool, it will tell you if they are exactly the same.

I wouldn't ever run unattended on the FB. The cost for a head is like $3k. So, taking a risk worth that is never worth it imo. What's your vacuum setting set to?

See, that's what I was talking to my finisher about last week. That we should mount it to a hard surface with double sided tape to hold it down flat. The open back is rough. Did you lift your head to max .120 or leave it at the .085?

I am trying to print on wood. I let the machine find head height. Wood is flat and not warped but it is on an open back frame. So we lined the back with 6mil adhesive so the machine could get some vacuum on it. I got a bit of a head strike. So before I try again with max head height .120...

The manual says 8.5 long.

If you load short sheet will it still take the 48" long?

Any of you gents have to feed any fresh roll about 3" past the heat unit or else you get a head strike?

Use the cloth guide. It should help that. If you are using a take up reel should help too. Keep curing door open too.