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QR codes are not website dependent unless tracking is enabled. Always use a decoder to verify the data stored in your QR code. It should only be the info you added and nothing else. See my previous post about it: https://www.signs101.com/threads/reliable-qr-code-generator.171219/post-1659137

STATIC CODES: For the most part, it doesn't really matter which (reputable) company generates the QR code as long as the tracking is turned off. The string embedded in a code is static, regardless of which algorithm was used to create it. After generating your code, use a decoder to verify...

Safety issues aside -- I can't imagine how many man hours (and the cost) it took to engineer and build that monster. That's a serious investment!

That sounds about right. I'm getting 510 for $147 (including my account-wide volume discounts)

Yes, we stock those. Here's our catalog. <pulls up google images> Which one did you want? Perfect. I'm heading over to the warehouse to pull orders tomorrow or the next day. That will be $75. Thanks!

Today I tried using some 3 year old GF 226 (low tack mural job on some older paint -- thankfully not a low VOC formula), and it was really hanging on to that liner. Print and cut job. (11) 24" tall letters. Regular high tack tape? Laughable. TransferRite AirMask 510U? Not even close...

The smaller your scale, the higher your resolution should be. For example, if you are working on a massive layout and want a really high quality print (300dpi), set up your PS artboard at 1/10th scale -- e.g. 53.5" x 23" -- but set the resolution 3,000ppi (sounds crazy, I know, but it's the...

Sometimes, but after doing it for so many years I already have a good idea what my cost is on that type of job. No need to break out a calculator each time unless there are special circumstances -- like specialty films, multiple vehicles, etc. I quote based on 7125 or IJ-180 unless there's a...

For those without a knack for it.. sure... it can be cringe. As a graphics designer of 30 years, and a sign maker for 24 years, I can assure you I've got a well trained eye for positioning, negative space, balance, rule of thirds and all that stuff. I regularly tape up graphics by eye, then...

Right on. For some reason I thought it had PVC in it. Did a quick search... some of the main toxic plastics are: HDPE, PVC, POLYCARB, ABS Ref: https://www.ssipkg.com/the-top-4-materials-you-should-never-cut-with-a-laser-cutter/

About 45 minutes. I hardly use measuring tapes for this kind of work (too slow, and doesn't guarantee optimal positioning). Toss the panels up there with magnets, get a quick eye on it / adjust... then step back 20 feet to make sure it looks right and adjust if necessary. Aesthetics are more...

Damn. I wouldn't use a laser on PVC even with an air filtration system. Hydrochloric acid / toxic fumes are no joke.

Probably this: https://www.acklandmediaframes.com/media-frame/

I'm considering one of their kits (with the frames, so the springs are covered). For my clients' project, it would be roughly 10 to 12ft tall x 20ft wide. The only downside (according to Lind) is that something that big needs to be printed on mesh so the wind doesn't create a vacuum behind it...

Want a $3 sign? No prob... I'll farm out 1k polybags for ya. Outside of that... good luck. Any customer that focuses solely on price will drop you to save a nickel. Zero loyalty. Do that job one time and they will beat you down for every other job. (oh -- I get minimum wage on this job --...

As I was installing today... I could definitely imagine how flimsy 3mm ACM would have been compared to the 6mm Alumalite I used. Still a little bit of flex with 6mm using 8 fasteners... 12 was the perfect amount. Thanks all! :)

After discussing pros/cons with the client, they gave me the okay for visible (painted) fasteners, and the panels have been upgraded to 6mm Alumalite. :) Lots of great info in here everyone. Very much appreciated!

The recessed area is slightly over-sized so the panels will fit in there without smashing against the welds. Basically a 1/4" gap on all sides. The graphics are pretty basic -- white background w/ 2-color cut vinyl lettering, nothing crazy. Should look fine, but I can add extra trim/edge...

Right on. No worries about the welds. The inner frame dimensions are 96.5 x 48.5, giving a 1/4" gap on all sides. ;)

Actually I do have 6mm Alumalite on hand too. (lettering hasn’t been applied yet) No doubt it would be stronger. Do you think additional supports would be necessary with Alumalite? Difference in cost for upgrading to Alumalite should be cheaper than hiring a welder to add supports. Note...