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Yes. Old English, Arial, CG Times Italic... all very easy to find with free font recognition tools.

A bit of both. Overlap during install, but then cut through the middle of the overlap.. removing the excess from both pieces... which gives you a tight butt seam. Seal all edges and seams like normal.

Yep yep. I have considered that. :)

I might have one from my retractable stand pile (new parts from various stands I tested out over the years, but not durable enough to actually sell to clients)... I can check tomorrow.

It's staying outside, over the sidewalk near their front door. I would like to explore the HDU option if it's not too crazy expensive (maybe a 2.5" square tubing frame w/ a sheet of HDU attached to each side), but I imagine recreating the plywood texture could be a bit challenging. (no idea...

Oh yeah, that'd be fun. I wish I had the creative freedom to go that route. :)

Thanks for the info. Yeah... this sign was made super cheap. 2x4 frame w/ 2 sheets of 3/8" plywood on each side, hand painted and trimmed out. These days they spend a pretty good chunk on very nice signs / graphics... but this is one of their only originals. I wonder how one could age...

Hey folks! My customer has a very old sign (one of their original signs from about 25 years ago)... recently had to pull it down due to rotting. It's a 4ft x 6ft double-sided plywood face with hand-painted artwork (top only bracket mount -- swings over their sidewalk). All their other signage...

Ah, that's good. :) They gave me a copy of Onyx, but I never used it. Caldera is my go-to.

I've owned a Mutoh 1614 since 2009. It's been a really solid workhorse, and it lasted way longer than expected. About a month ago I upgraded to an Epson S80600. I considered another Mutoh, but I decided the Epson upgrade was well worth the extra $$$-- not just for it's superior color matching...

Arlon 510MT is great (no tunneling) and I get some amazing colors with it too. Haven't tried "Econo GF" yet... what series is that?

https://www.whatfontis.com/FF_SF-WADIM-GIANT-Heavy.font

It definitely helps on detailed jobs like in the first pic (not yet weeded)... or when you have a ton of windows to do like the 2nd pic (1.5 rolls of 48" Mactac)

I wouldn't trust a big squeegee for a trailer or box truck install... even if it had smooth sides.. because there's too much give in between the supports. I have tried it on some large window installs, but even that can be finicky unless the conditions are near perfect.

Yep. My guess is that a lot of (non professional) apps aren't tightly integrated with Adobe. Instead of developers paying Adobe for access to their advanced libraries and rendering engines, they just opt for a quick GPL library (off GitHub, for example) and call it a day. As such, we get...

Careful which series you're using if applying wet. Air-release channels can trap moisture.

Mactac is much easier to use -- way less tacky than 3M (and less expensive to boot). I always digitally print the negative space on frost vinyl b/c it's way too difficult trying to find the cut edges for weeding. Just a light 15-20% black does the job, and it still looks fine even if the...

I ran into a similar issue about a month ago (1 black channel completely dropped out, and the 2nd deteriorated quickly after that). I changed out the maintenance station and switched over to 3rd party inks, as per solventinkjet's suggestion. After a good head cleaning, all channels were back...

Most everyone here will tell you Illustrator or Corel. I prefer Illustrator but either one should work fine for you.

Yep FireSprint should be good for you. But whomever you choose... make sure they know how to properly crate them. Pricey job, and it's probably at least 300lbs of material that can be very easily damaged.