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Got tired of their dongle, so just using a virtual one. Not posting crack instructions, since I am not going to encourage people to steal software. Just using it for my own convenience. The software is simple, but the $500 price tag for such a simple program isn't great. Plus, some of the...

I'm going to have to give you a solid C- on your report. Got a weird AI vibe here, and the company address is just a sketchy 'virtual office' setup.

What's the MSRP on a Karen Read? Is this some kind of mail in rebate?

Working on mine and I found the tubing they used in that batch of peristaltic pumps (2021 tagged model) was awful. All flattened out, so I rebuilt all the pumps with Tygon. Still don't know why they didn't use gravity to feed those damn things.

Recheck your nozzle numbers, the charts can be a bit of a pain. Usually works if just programming out a few nozzles. Dedicated Mimaki forum here btw https://www.signs101.com/forums/mimaki.208/

Firmware is what resides in the printer's EPL board (basically the motherboard), RasterLink is the RIP software that lives on your PC. The code you're getting is F(use) 2 on the slider board being blown. Bad heads can develop short-circuits and that fuse is to protect the slider. Nothing to do...

The gully annotated parameter list itself isn't public to my knowledge, or in circulation.

Print in unidirectional mode and then unidirectional but reverse direction. If printing to the left, likely the left side one and vice versa. Setting in the Q menu in RasterLink.

Probably dampers, could be ink starvation. On test prints the ink has a chance to catch up so to speak.

The NCU is the black slot sensor between the capping station and the platen.

Might be ink on the Nozzle Check Unit LED or receiver, can just disable it to bypass the code. Most people turn it off since it takes a while to run nozzle checking and they don't like the added print time.

Just using generic HosonSoft controllers, so 'most brands'.

You can run the printer in unidirectional mode and probably be fine, will just be really slow. Just need to make sure it is configured with only 4 colors, not 8. Try before buying of course.

Wow, might be a firmware issue if I were to take a stab in the dark. Service mode: Hold Func1 and Func3 when booting, let go when you hear beep/firmware version shows on screen. Go to menu and should be an extra page for #ADJUST, #TEST, & #PARAMETER

Wrong thread, wrong printer. Sending me the exact thing in DM isn't going to get me to send you a manual or help you. If you cannot follow the most basic of instructions, you're going to need a professional to do it.

Joy, wonder if a connection got bumped. Bust of luck. Thankfully the heaters are a cobbled together doohickey instead of an internal printhead heater line.

Managed to figure out how to generate printer definition files for most RIPs, so that should help a ton. Right now I am looking into making a kit for old Oce Arizona and JFX200/JFX500 printers to convert over to modern heads/electronics. Seems both those printers are filling the market at a...

This is a thread about a JFX200 EX series printer, not a UCJV300. Since you cannot be bothered to check such a simple thing, I think giving you a service manual would just be a liability. While I am happy to welcome new forum members, people who just join, I get at least 2-3 people a week...

The way the lines are run on the 330 is pretty dang tight. Had issues where a line got kinked or a damper got pulled up causing the head to have ink starvation. The first thing I would do is to make sure dampers are clipped in properly and lines look to be straight.

Might be easier to find a local supplier, and not a rare part by any stretch. Plus, being in New Zealand and all that.