Search results

Media Setup Menu > Customize Settings > Advanced Settings > Platen Gap

I've gotten white from https://www.signteamonline.com/ several times before.

Their specs say "Max. 0.1% of the distance moved or 0.1 mm, whichever is larger". I would say it's close to that. I tend to think anything over that is probably due to distortion in the print itself or reg marks. Repeatability is fine. It will run over the same path exactly time and time again.

I've cut styrene before, but I believe it was 20 mil. I can to cut the job twice for each sheet. It's a hard material. Chances are you'll need to repeat the cut 2-3 times to get through 30 mil is my guess. It will work, it's just not ideal.

That seems to work. Appreciate it guys!

How did you do that? CM4 won't even show for me in the Illustrator 2025 (29.2.1).

BikeGraphix is using 2271C for the current Kawi green. I've had varying luck switching to RGB/CMYK from pantone. It seems the RIP prints the pantone color differently than the RGB or CMYK equivalent. As unclebun stated, testing is everything.

Whats the line line that you're seeing? Is it causing small bubbles, or is it that there is silvering on the rest of the print, except for that spot where the roll started or stopped? Does the line go away with heat or after sitting for a bit?

Understood, and we weighed that heavily. We just weren't happy with the print quality when printing directly on the magnet. Perhaps your requirements are different than ours.

I'll add that in my opinion, printing directly on magnum does not give as good of a finish as printing on vinyl. Early on, we thought the same thing as you - skip a step, save some money. In the end, we decided to print on vinyl, laminate the vinyl, then apply to magnetic sheet, then cut. We've...

We have two of them. They will cut substance 21mil (6+15mil) fine. We cut 30mil magnet with it every day. You wont get the speed out of it that you could from Summa flatbeds, but they are a fraction of the cost. The cutting master 4 software is simple to use. As with any flatbed, the vacuum...

If you're planning on using standard 30 mil magnetic sheet, there is no way they will stick through 2-3mm PVC. You could look into magnetic receptive material like this https://magnummagnetics.com/magnetic-receptive-material/ to put on the front of your display. Personally, I would consider...

Im with Kev. Easiest thing to do is make sure everything is tight. Make sure your blade isn't sticking out any farther than you need as well.

We have a similar setup to you. FC2000 in basement on carpet with the pump in the same room, under the unit. We initially tried building a muffler from PVC with foam inside it. It came out of the pump, made a 180 degree turn and went into a larger diameter tube with foam pipe insulation in it...

Yes. The cutting speed really only affects the straight line cutting speed, in my experience. It probably won't help much, but make sure you only have the minimum amount of points on your circle's path.

Just placed my first order with them today for feather flag banners. Hoping we don't have problems...

What about Briteline Duration IM3223 (https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Product/IM3223-54)? It's the same as GF 223 (https://www.grimco.com/catalog/products/gfconcept223semirigidvinyl). It's 6mil, matte, so it can be written on easily, and low tack, so it can be removed. Latex safe. We print on it...

I have applied transfer tape and THEN cut on the cutter. You can still read registration marks through most transfer paper. So the process might look like: -Print artwork -Kiss cut on the cutter -Weed, but leave registration marks on the backing paper -Apply transfer paper -Run through cutter...

"forum" still works, at least last I tried a few months ago.

The dampers are part of a duct assy and aren't easily swap-able. I hate to say it, but I just went through this, where I lost an entire band. At first it was intermittent. I tried swapping the damper/duct assy first, but in the end, the head was bad and replacing fixed the problem. Do the parts...