Blank patch frames source

binki

Premium Subscriber
Are you buying the blanks? Can you show them or give a link? I would think you just use a normal frame with maybe a paper stabilizer and sew an outline, tape it down and then sew your design.

Are you just looking for the merrow stitch around the edge? The machines are not that expensive but it will take about 4 months to get one.

More info please.
 

WildWestDesigns

New Member
Are you just looking for the merrow stitch around the edge? The machines are not that expensive but it will take about 4 months to get one.
Be mindful here, have to pick the specific machine for the merrow stitch that you want. They have wide, thin, some for patches up that are up to rocker size (essentially, although can do a smidge bigger with them but not much unless they have added to their lineup, which is possible since I last bought a merrow machine), some that are for full backs etc. Very good machines though. Poor man's machine would be a standard overlock, but have to do some thread trickery to give the look of a merrow stitch.

To the OP: can use a sticky stabilizer as well to hold the blank patch in any frame to embroider it, just make sure to tear away the excess.

If you are going to be doing patches in any significant amount and have it as a staple offering, I would suggest getting a finishing machine in order to just stitch this out on fabric directly, use a run stitch outline for a cut line and finish it off. At that point, it's just a matter of how big your biggest hoop is (and how many heads that your machine(s) have) that will determine how many can get embroidered at one time.
 

binki

Premium Subscriber
For most cases for us we use the wide merrow because that is the machine we have. If we need something smaller or for complicated patches we use a poly twill and a satin stitch and melt the edge to clean it up.

Using pre merrowed patches is fine, just make sure they are stuck down when you sew on them and use an appropriate stabilize to keep it smooth. I would also raise the tables all the way up to keep the material from flagging while sewing. As an alternative, just order them from someone that does emblems all day long.
 

WildWestDesigns

New Member
For most cases for us we use the wide merrow because that is the machine we have. If we need something smaller or for complicated patches we use a poly twill and a satin stitch and melt the edge to clean it up.
Hot knife is a good technique in a pinch. It would also help to do that on top a little plate of glass (like from a frame etc). I have found anyway. Helps keep the flow of cutting through to where there aren't any blobs when "sealing" those edges.

Can I sew through twill with the glue already on already?
Sticky stabilizer, have no problem. There is also a spray adhesive that I have use a time or two, but that was more for puff foam.

If you have a merrow machine, using the adhesive is moot, as you would just cut a piece of fabric to fit your needed frame and you would use a run stitch outline to cut the fabric after embroidery. Or if you use the hot knife technique could do the same thing. There is a distinct difference between a satin edge versus an overlock edge, so it really depends if your client has a preference as to how much wiggle room there is for you.
 

Craig Keller

New Member
stupid question The twill has clear piece over the sticky part. Do I remove this clear film and stick it to my backing? Or leave it and apply backing to the twill and clear film?

Thanks!
 

binki

Premium Subscriber
stupid question The twill has clear piece over the sticky part. Do I remove this clear film and stick it to my backing? Or leave it and apply backing to the twill and clear film?

Thanks!
Remove the clear before embroidery. If you are cutting it on a roll cutter, leave it on to cut and then take it off after. We normally use a buckram backing on the patches and then apply glue to the back of that after embroidery. The sticky part can be either temporary or permanent. We normally buy from Twill USA but last time we had to buy from Stahl's because everyone else was out of stock on black, white, orange, red and blue.
 

WildWestDesigns

New Member
stupid question The twill has clear piece over the sticky part. Do I remove this clear film and stick it to my backing? Or leave it and apply backing to the twill and clear film?

Thanks!

I've never gotten twill that has had anything on it, either pre done patches or just rolled twill.
 

binki

Premium Subscriber
I've never gotten twill that has had anything on it, either pre done patches or just rolled twill.
For White and Black we get it with no backing and no glue in 56" rolls. We also do 16.5" rolls with perm backing and plastic carrier so we can cut them on our VersaCamm for things like sweatshirts and sports uniforms.
 

WildWestDesigns

New Member
For White and Black we get it with no backing and no glue in 56" rolls. We also do 16.5" rolls with perm backing and plastic carrier so we can cut them on our VersaCamm for things like sweatshirts and sports uniforms.
I'll run a cut line and just manually cut them before I run the merrow stitch on them. Far easier for me to do it that way compared to dealing with the cutter for patches. Now, I will use the cutter for applique pieces and I'll use Madeira's applique cut magic for that, but I don't get rolls with anything on it.
 

binki

Premium Subscriber
I'll run a cut line and just manually cut them before I run the merrow stitch on them. Far easier for me to do it that way compared to dealing with the cutter for patches. Now, I will use the cutter for applique pieces and I'll use Madeira's applique cut magic for that, but I don't get rolls with anything on it.
I do the same. Patches are hand cut out, uniforms, sweaters, etc. are cut on my cutter.
 
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