Huge help needed to get print work done that we can clear coat in...

[57chevy]

We used to visit this forum often for help with the Mutoh we had. We no longer have the printer, but we sure could use advise like we used to get from members years ago!

This project is for our own use -we had an amazing pin up artist do a drawing of our model, it's in a tif format at 300 dpi. The goal is to print it on a material that we can apply to the top of a custom nitrous motorcycle fuel tank and in a way that we can make it look like it's almost airbrushed on.

The plan is to have it printed and contour cut in the highest quality we can get (anyone who can do this, please drop us a note!), place it onto the fuel tank, clear coat it and wet sand until it's flush smooth, then go back and airbrush over the edge of the print to completely hide the edge, clear it all out again and in the end make the print work look like it's almost airbrushed on.

We've cleared many decals over the years with HOK urethane, so that step isn't really the concern, rather our questions for the readers of the forum -is what is the best material or technique to get the results we are after?

The majority of the art will lay flat, but we may have some "bust in the artwork" that needs to wrap downwards onto the side of the tank. We need a perfectly smooth application and wrap material isn't really what we are after. We need to avoid shrinkage and have rich colors that will last.

Any suggestions on what material (translucent?), or type of printer type that will give us the results to pull off this effect?

Anyone who can fill this need, we'd be happy to pay for their efforts if they can supply what we are after.

Roughly 18" X 8" is the size needed.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice on the subject!

57Chevy

 

[DavidT]

hi 57 Chevy,

We 2 pac clear many or our digital prints and it gives a great high gloss and protective finish,
One way I can think of, digital print to a high quality cast film, you would then install and clear coat, a thick coat, then sand back to take some of raised edge away, you would not want to sand to decal surface.
Repeat sand/coat until virtually no edge visible,

David

 

[bob]

If you want it to look as it it were airbrushed directly on the substrate then airbrush it directly on the substrate. Printing and applying a decal, not matter what materials, not matter what quality of print, not matter how it's clear coated, it's not going to look as if it were painted on.

Probably 99% of those who see it might think it's been painted but 90% of those people would think that a crayon sketch on a paper mailing label was painted.

The problem is not limited to the cut edge of the media which will yield a .002" of white border exposed here and there depending on parallax. That edge and be mitigated with a bit of judicious airbrushing. The problem that's well neigh impossible to elegantly resolve is that the media has to end somewhere and the substrate exposed from that point. The salient characteristic of airbrush work is that there are no sharp edges without frisket work here and there. Even if the image was a full bleed and/or the color of the media was an exact match for the color of the substrate there still remains that pesky .002" step.

Dumping on sufficient clear coat and wet sanding such that the entire surface is level will not make that edge disappear. Most people might not see it but once anyone does, it presents a visual anomaly upon which they will focus like a laser.

 

[57chevy]

Thanks for taking the time to offer help!

Cast film does indeed sound like it would fit the need, from the quick look I took on the subject. I'm not familiar with it though -is it a material that is in wide use?

Or would it be something that many printers would struggle with getting and using?

Would the print be best over a translucent or white cast material?

Lastly any suggestions on who might be a printer to contact to have the printing done? You didn't mention the interest so I thought I might ask.

Happy to see others have done this type of work with success!

Thanks again,
57Chevy

hi 57 Chevy,

We 2 pac clear many or our digital prints and it gives a great high gloss and protective finish,
One way I can think of, digital print to a high quality cast film, you would then install and clear coat, a thick coat, then sand back to take some of raised edge away, you would not want to sand to decal surface.
Repeat sand/coat until virtually no edge visible,

David

 

[57chevy]

Hmmm,

All great points, the issue is real airbrush artists or "portrait artists" that can capture the true look of a person each and every time are VERY expensive, I'm talking $6,500 just for the portrait work. While the pencil / ink / computer artist who absolutely nailed the look of the model for us, literally capturing her personality, he was very affordable under $200, very professional and in Spain. Jose Cano -his work is amazing. I can highly recommend him if you need anything over and above the regular artist in that vien,

So even though we would like true airbrush and started off with that intent, this is now our next best option. We have enough skill with airbrushing to effectively hide that .002 step you mentioned -or at least think we can!

Never the less all your points are well taken. I appreciate you taking the time to help.

57Chevy

If you want it to look as it it were airbrushed directly on the substrate then airbrush it directly on the substrate. Printing and applying a decal, not matter what materials, not matter what quality of print, not matter how it's clear coated, it's not going to look as if it were painted on.

Probably 99% of those who see it might think it's been painted but 90% of those people would think that a crayon sketch on a paper mailing label was painted.

The problem is not limited to the cut edge of the media which will yield a .002" of white border exposed here and there depending on parallax. That edge and be mitigated with a bit of judicious airbrushing. The problem that's well neigh impossible to elegantly resolve is that the media has to end somewhere and the substrate exposed from that point. The salient characteristic of airbrush work is that there are no sharp edges without frisket work here and there. Even if the image was a full bleed and/or the color of the media was an exact match for the color of the substrate there still remains that pesky .002" step.

Dumping on sufficient clear coat and wet sanding such that the entire surface is level will not make that edge disappear. Most people might not see it but once anyone does, it presents a visual anomaly upon which they will focus like a laser.

 

[DavidT]

Most sign companies would carry cast film, You would probably need to print to white unless you will be applying to a white background as the inks, in most cases need a white base to show the colors correctly.
Will the graphic fade into background or will there be a defining edge?

As Bob said there will be some compromises.

I would be happy to print but I am on the other side of the Pacific.


David

 

[Pat Whatley]

Probably 99% of those who see it might think it's been painted but 90% of those people would think that a crayon sketch on a paper mailing label was painted.

So....you either sell to 99% of potential customers or you sell to 1% of potential customers, your call.

 

[57chevy]

Thanks for the following up!

You are absolutely correct, now that I think about it, white would be the only option, since the base coat on the bike it Tangelo orange and printed on a translucent vinyl, would definitely effect the print colors. Doesn't much matter where you are located =the art was done in Spain, I have no problem waiting on the USPS man to bring my prints!

The art does have a 1/8" stroke surrounding the art, but I'm a graphics guy so modifying that wouldn't be an issue, as long as the contour cut was inside the "black" stroke area. Once it's cleared coated in, it would be a simple matter to airbrush over the seam or "edge" where the vinyl stopped and regular paint begins. Just a matter of choosing an airbrush effect that allowed for the seam to be covered while not getting into the art or distracting from the paint scheme.

I've attached a sample of the art -this one though is the PG version, the one for the bike is topless, I've dropped in a black / gray background tiled image that I did a print at the local Walgreen's print of a poster for the wife (the model is my wife if I haven't mentioned it), to show her friends. The version I need printed will be on white with the black stroke in place for the contour cut.

If you don't mind drop me a private message with a way to contact you and I'll quickly follow up with on having the print work done!

Really appreciate all the help on this one.

57Chevy

Most sign companies would carry cast film, You would probably need to print to white unless you will be applying to a white background as the inks, in most cases need a white base to show the colors correctly.
Will the graphic fade into background or will there be a defining edge?

As Bob said there will be some compromises.

I would be happy to print but I am on the other side of the Pacific.


David

 

[John Butto]

look

Basically it is going to look like this with the black outline? My orange probably is darker than what you have which will make the black stand out more. I am with bob on this one with his percentage formula.
So you want to print on 2mil vinyl (assuming no laminate to keep the thickness down) and then clear coat at most 3-4 mill of clear coat to get an even finish so it is all one level.
Tell us the outcome after it is finished so we all know for future references, and pics of course because you got my interest up what your wife looks like without the dress.

 

[57chevy]

Pretty much right on the money, we've ended up doing some wide stripes length wise on the tank and fenders, all done with different base coat colors and flake that will all be top coated in Tangerine candy. The overall color scheme is still all orange flavors. We are shooting the parts now, so everyone suggesting what we should use for the print part is a huge help.

The bike has an adult theme and the topless plan -when I tell people I'm putting the wife on the bike topless, I either get big grins, or a total look of disgust. Pretty amusing... It is a drawing after all, even though the artist was instructed to draw the bust exactly like the real set, he as my wife said when she saw the final artwork "look he gave me a boob job for free!".

On the 2mil vinyl, would it be flexible enough to wrap slightly over on the sides of the tank? The tank narrows where the bust falls, the original plan was to go as large as possible with the image and let the bust flow over and onto the sides just a small amount. I even relocated the fuel cap and added length to the tank at the front of the seat to gain more room for the art.

I'm attaching an early photoshop version we did to help everyone to visualize the look we are after. Now we want to be able to take the bike to shows and such, so we either have to hide the R rated portion of the bust or come up with a way to cover the nipples when in a family atmosphere. The wife said she'd just make a leather tank bra that we could attach over the art for that needs. She would just make it look like a bustier top similar to what is shown on the girl in the photoshop image. I've also attached a image with the airbrush effect, that I'll probably use to hide the vinyl edge. The car in the image would represent the printed portion of the art in our case. The wispy and sparkly part would do the job I think in hiding the edge pretty well.

So the real question now is can the material be wrapped slightly, and if so, then we can go large, if not then we'll have shrink the image size to fit on the top of the tank surface only.

Thanks again for all the help on this!
57Chevy

Basically it is going to look like this with the black outline? My orange probably is darker than what you have which will make the black stand out more. I am with bob on this one with his percentage formula.
So you want to print on 2mil vinyl (assuming no laminate to keep the thickness down) and then clear coat at most 3-4 mill of clear coat to get an even finish so it is all one level.
Tell us the outcome after it is finished so we all know for future references, and pics of course because you got my interest up what your wife looks like without the dress.

 

[J Hill Designs]

yes, cast wrap vinyl is meant to wrap around complex curves.