• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

I am curious about the handtop print option and the Kyocera head (KJ4A-0300) voltage setting.

congdesign

New Member
hello
I am using handtop HT1600 Kyocera head model.

I have two questions, so I'm leaving a question.
1. Among the topjet options, I wonder what role screen and ink density play in printingmode. (Capture 1)
2. The heads voltage is currently set like this. How should I set it up? The head is using Kyocera Head KJ4A-0300. (Capture 2)
 

Attachments

  • capture1.jpg
    capture1.jpg
    57.5 KB · Views: 246
  • capture2.jpg
    capture2.jpg
    89.1 KB · Views: 128

signheremd

New Member
Screen is the fineness of the dots - a lower number yields an image that is very sharp, a higher number yields an image best seen from far away.
Ink density is essentially the amount of ink used to print. So 1x would be a normal amount. 2x is sometimes useful when printing on a sign that will be backlit. Generally speaking, you almost always use 1x.

Heads voltage should be set during installation and is not something you should generally adjust. It controls the shape of the dots of ink, and only an experienced operator or tech should ever make adjusts on the temperature and voltage as doing so improperly can result in head failure.

For the Kyocera heads, yours looks to be set correctly.

You may also have the option of leading lamps, trailing lamps or both. Leading lamps allows the ink to spread more before being cured by the UV lamps - results in smoother, shiney colors. Trailing lamps cure the ink shortly after it lands on the media - results in flater colors, but sharper quality. Using both will overcure the ink, making it more brittle, will give results more like trailing lamps in color, but is helpful when you are laying down more ink (2x or 3x ink).

Hope this helps you. These are very reliable machines - workhorses - just keep up your daily, weekly, and monthly maintenance.
 

congdesign

New Member
Screen is the fineness of the dots - a lower number yields an image that is very sharp, a higher number yields an image best seen from far away.
Ink density is essentially the amount of ink used to print. So 1x would be a normal amount. 2x is sometimes useful when printing on a sign that will be backlit. Generally speaking, you almost always use 1x.

Heads voltage should be set during installation and is not something you should generally adjust. It controls the shape of the dots of ink, and only an experienced operator or tech should ever make adjusts on the temperature and voltage as doing so improperly can result in head failure.

For the Kyocera heads, yours looks to be set correctly.

You may also have the option of leading lamps, trailing lamps or both. Leading lamps allows the ink to spread more before being cured by the UV lamps - results in smoother, shiney colors. Trailing lamps cure the ink shortly after it lands on the media - results in flater colors, but sharper quality. Using both will overcure the ink, making it more brittle, will give results more like trailing lamps in color, but is helpful when you are laying down more ink (2x or 3x ink).

Hope this helps you. These are very reliable machines - workhorses - just keep up your daily, weekly, and monthly maintenance.
hello. signheremd
It gave clear answers to a few things. thank you

I have a few questions...
first,
I'm going to test it by setting the leading lamp and the trailing lamp.
There were right_dir(L_lamp/R_lamp) and left_dir(L_lamp/R_lamp) options. How should I check and test them?
(capture1)

second,
You said that the settings of the Kyocera head (Kj4a-0300) seem to be set correctly..
The head voltage value is .. black = 1, the rest = 0. Is the setting correct?
When using other UV printers, the head voltage values are set to 80% of the maximum voltage value of the head, so I am curious...
Is it right to set the temperature like this?
(capture2)

third,
When I print, the black comes out so clearly, but the other colors are slightly
It comes out blurry... If I check the nozzle before printing, everything comes out normally. Could this be related to head voltage?
(capture3)


This is the first time I've used this head and printer... I have so many questions.
thank you ^^
 

Attachments

  • capture1.jpg
    capture1.jpg
    704.5 KB · Views: 115
  • capture2.JPG
    capture2.JPG
    36.9 KB · Views: 107
  • capture3.jpg
    capture3.jpg
    197 KB · Views: 121

GC Decor

Super Printer
Temperatures are right, If you lower them than your nozzles wont fire correctly. Temperatures for this machine couldn't change & 39 - 40 is common.
Why mess with your voltage ?? Never heard of adjusting this when having print issues.
If your getting blurry prints you can check your head alignment, there are several alignment test you can run built into the control menu.
 

signheremd

New Member
hello. signheremd
It gave clear answers to a few things. thank you

I have a few questions...
first,
I'm going to test it by setting the leading lamp and the trailing lamp.
There were right_dir(L_lamp/R_lamp) and left_dir(L_lamp/R_lamp) options. How should I check and test them?
(capture1)

second,
You said that the settings of the Kyocera head (Kj4a-0300) seem to be set correctly..
The head voltage value is .. black = 1, the rest = 0. Is the setting correct?
When using other UV printers, the head voltage values are set to 80% of the maximum voltage value of the head, so I am curious...
Is it right to set the temperature like this?
(capture2)

third,
When I print, the black comes out so clearly, but the other colors are slightly
It comes out blurry... If I check the nozzle before printing, everything comes out normally. Could this be related to head voltage?
(capture3)


This is the first time I've used this head and printer... I have so many questions.
thank you ^^

First,
Trailing lamps are right dir_ L_Lamp checked, R_Lamp not checked, left dir L_Lamp not checked, R_Lamp checked
Leading lamps is the opposite right dir_ L_Lamp not checked, R_Lamp checked, left dir L_Lamp checked, R_Lamp not checked
Dual Lamps would have all four checked - but only use when laying a lot of ink down.

Second,
Yes, temperature and voltage are both set correctly for the Kyocera heads. You should not need to change this.

Third,
The fuzzyness is related to calibration of the colors - you need to run through a set of calibrations.
Best to run a full set of calibrations and do so in order so that any changes you make do not undo the ones you just made.
Test:
Nozzle test - do this to be sure your nozzles do not needs to be cleaned with flush

Head Vertical - not likely needed, but this is the test to see if you need to manually adjust the screws that angle the physical heads (do not mess with the heads if you do not need to until you have more experience).

Nozzle Alignment - Horizontal version of above calibration - like before check, but only adjust yourself once you are experienced. Also, not likely either this or Head Vertical needs adjustment.

Heads Offset - This is where most of your adjustments will be made. You run it for Left Directional and then Right Directional. it will print a series of bars for each color with values above. The center one is current setting, -1 thru -5 are values where you minus that amount from your Color Module Calibration to the corresponding row and column (Row is for which test you are running, right directional or left directional, columns are for each color and its two sections of the head - so Kl and K2 refer to two sections for black. use a magnifying glass or eye piece so you can best see which value has the middle lines and the top and bottom brackets most aligned for each color. Circle the best for each and then add, subtract or leave alone to match the value above each box. Once you have entered the values for all the Left Directional test run, run it again to make sure it is correct - adjust again. Example: If my K-l value was 5 in the software, but -1 looks best on the print, change the value in the software to 4 (5-1=4). Next do the same for the Right Directional, run test, circle best matches, adjust values, run test agin to confirm.

BiDirectional Offset - This is divided between small and medium dots size and large dot size and the value is based also up on which speed you run. You are picking one number where all alignments are closest. Do this for each speed you run. If you run large dot size (like for billboard signs) do it for large as well at each speed you typical run the job.

Stepping calibration - this adjusts the amount the printer moves for each pass of printing. This is another pick one number, the best average for all colors.

The other alignments should not need to changed.

This should allow you to get the color fuzziness out and back to printing at your best.
 

congdesign

New Member
Temperatures are right, If you lower them than your nozzles wont fire correctly. Temperatures for this machine couldn't change & 39 - 40 is common.
Why mess with your voltage ?? Never heard of adjusting this when having print issues.
If your getting blurry prints you can check your head alignment, there are several alignment test you can run built into the control menu.
Thank you.
I checked the temperature and voltage in various ways, so I'm glad I didn't modify it.
I think I need to proceed in the direction of catching through alignment and color correction... heh
 

congdesign

New Member
First,
Trailing lamps are right dir_ L_Lamp checked, R_Lamp not checked, left dir L_Lamp not checked, R_Lamp checked
Leading lamps is the opposite right dir_ L_Lamp not checked, R_Lamp checked, left dir L_Lamp checked, R_Lamp not checked
Dual Lamps would have all four checked - but only use when laying a lot of ink down.

Second,
Yes, temperature and voltage are both set correctly for the Kyocera heads. You should not need to change this.

Third,
The fuzzyness is related to calibration of the colors - you need to run through a set of calibrations.
Best to run a full set of calibrations and do so in order so that any changes you make do not undo the ones you just made.
Test:
Nozzle test - do this to be sure your nozzles do not needs to be cleaned with flush

Head Vertical - not likely needed, but this is the test to see if you need to manually adjust the screws that angle the physical heads (do not mess with the heads if you do not need to until you have more experience).

Nozzle Alignment - Horizontal version of above calibration - like before check, but only adjust yourself once you are experienced. Also, not likely either this or Head Vertical needs adjustment.

Heads Offset - This is where most of your adjustments will be made. You run it for Left Directional and then Right Directional. it will print a series of bars for each color with values above. The center one is current setting, -1 thru -5 are values where you minus that amount from your Color Module Calibration to the corresponding row and column (Row is for which test you are running, right directional or left directional, columns are for each color and its two sections of the head - so Kl and K2 refer to two sections for black. use a magnifying glass or eye piece so you can best see which value has the middle lines and the top and bottom brackets most aligned for each color. Circle the best for each and then add, subtract or leave alone to match the value above each box. Once you have entered the values for all the Left Directional test run, run it again to make sure it is correct - adjust again. Example: If my K-l value was 5 in the software, but -1 looks best on the print, change the value in the software to 4 (5-1=4). Next do the same for the Right Directional, run test, circle best matches, adjust values, run test agin to confirm.

BiDirectional Offset - This is divided between small and medium dots size and large dot size and the value is based also up on which speed you run. You are picking one number where all alignments are closest. Do this for each speed you run. If you run large dot size (like for billboard signs) do it for large as well at each speed you typical run the job.

Stepping calibration - this adjusts the amount the printer moves for each pass of printing. This is another pick one number, the best average for all colors.

The other alignments should not need to changed.

This should allow you to get the color fuzziness out and back to printing at your best.
Thank you very much for your kind reply.

I also learned a few new options.
As advised, I'll start with the alignment again.
I'll have to try color correction in the lip program as well.

There are too many settings to do, so it's very difficult for beginners. T.T

Thank you so much, have a nice day today!!
 
Top