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Lexel cure time lesson learned

squaregoco

New Member
Well, can’t win them all I guess. Got a text the day after install.... the sign is on the ground shattered. I have used lexel and vhb on other signage in this same complex with no issue but never anything this large. The brick was a little extra uneven here. Lexel stuck great to acrylic and painted brick, guess the vhb just didn’t hold long enough for it to set all the way (liquid nail stain is from old sign). Remember reading someone using Lexel, vhb and loctite power grab together. Anyway, the redo is getting some screws hidden behind three of the acrylic letters! Lesson learned, Lexel says full cure can take 1-2 weeks, guess they aren’t kidding. Any experience how long it usually takes to grab?
 

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squaregoco

New Member
Shame, that looks like a very nice piece of work. JMO, not near enough adhesive or tape for that application. Maybe a nice thin french cleat instead?
Yeah I had considered an aluminum cleat, how would you attach it to the acrylic sign? I guess I could have also added pads and pins, mounted it that way.
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Try bostic 940FS, it is a fast setting marine urethane adhesive and is super strong. Another option might be mirror mastic, I've only used it hanging mirrors but that stuff will break the mirror and rip a hole in the wall when you try to take it off. Might throw some gorilla tape on it to hold it while it sets up
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
At a minimum, I would run long strips of that tape and long beads of Lexel... not splotchy like that. It might take a roll of tape and half a thing of Lexel but that is cheaper than replacing sign. Studs are preferred
 

squaregoco

New Member
Pads and studs for sure! Those clear acrylic pads are great for this, add a 6" stud and you are set.
You could do a french cleat, something like Z clip mounts solidly with a full length piece of VHB tape, clean both surfaces with alcohol first and allow 24 hours for maximum bond. On the wall just screw it to it with counter sink heads, ideally you drill and countersink that in the shop and make a pattern so you're not monkeying around with a countersink bit on the tailgate during install.
Why such a long stud? Haven’t got into pads yet but about to do some larger acrylic letters so I’m ordering some. Do you just use Weld-on 16 for the pads?
 
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