Using PVC as the substrate for a dimensional sign. The face of the material is glossy & smooth, but the edges are porous. When painted the face remained glossy, but the paint looks "matte" on the edges. How do you prep the edges of PVC to make it smooth like the face?? Thanks
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PVC edge prep
- Thread starter DGDesigns
- Start date
BrianKE
New Member
I often times use a very small hand planer to make a nice clean edge on the PVC. The planer I use is only 1" wide blade and easily fits in the palm of my hand.
It takes a few tries to get a nice clean edge but well worth it once done well. Never have looked at it that closely though to see if the edge would still be porous.
It takes a few tries to get a nice clean edge but well worth it once done well. Never have looked at it that closely though to see if the edge would still be porous.
J Hill Designs
New Member
sintra how-to guide says to float MEK on it and rub with a rag - supposed to create a finish as smooth as the face...never tried it...
Heres the excerpt from the guide:
VI. Edge Treatment
When Sintra is cut to size during fabrication, edge cells are exposed. Although these cells do
not allow paint or water to be absorbed any further than the first layer, the filling or chemical
collapsing of these cells before painting can offer close to the same texture or appearance as
the surface of the sheet after painting.
A. Filling exposed cells (10-19 mm)
Spot putty or glazing compound used in the auto body industry works very well.
1. Fill edge cells with spot putty using a stiff, flat blade. Fill the cells, do not build up the edge.
2. When dry, usually 3-4 minutes, sand lightly to remove blade marks and any build up of
putty.
B. Collapsing exposed cells (1-6 mm)
Use a PVC solvent such as, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) or Tetrahydrofuran (THF).
1. Sand edge of Sintra to remove all saw or router marks.
2. Apply PVC solvent to sanded edge with acrylic glue applicator bottle. With protected
finger, rub solvent onto edge of Sintra. The more you apply and rub, the more cells you
collapse.
C. Edge Banding
For thicker Sintra Material panels, 1 mm or 2 mm Sintra Material can be adhered to the
edge using a PVC solvent.
D. Aluminum or plastic edge extrusions ("U" Channels, T-Moldings)
E. Heat Form
1. V-Rout near edge of panel, approx. 90% penetration
2. Heat Bend
3. Solvent Bond
Heres the excerpt from the guide:
VI. Edge Treatment
When Sintra is cut to size during fabrication, edge cells are exposed. Although these cells do
not allow paint or water to be absorbed any further than the first layer, the filling or chemical
collapsing of these cells before painting can offer close to the same texture or appearance as
the surface of the sheet after painting.
A. Filling exposed cells (10-19 mm)
Spot putty or glazing compound used in the auto body industry works very well.
1. Fill edge cells with spot putty using a stiff, flat blade. Fill the cells, do not build up the edge.
2. When dry, usually 3-4 minutes, sand lightly to remove blade marks and any build up of
putty.
B. Collapsing exposed cells (1-6 mm)
Use a PVC solvent such as, Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) or Tetrahydrofuran (THF).
1. Sand edge of Sintra to remove all saw or router marks.
2. Apply PVC solvent to sanded edge with acrylic glue applicator bottle. With protected
finger, rub solvent onto edge of Sintra. The more you apply and rub, the more cells you
collapse.
C. Edge Banding
For thicker Sintra Material panels, 1 mm or 2 mm Sintra Material can be adhered to the
edge using a PVC solvent.
D. Aluminum or plastic edge extrusions ("U" Channels, T-Moldings)
E. Heat Form
1. V-Rout near edge of panel, approx. 90% penetration
2. Heat Bend
3. Solvent Bond
J Hill Designs
New Member
this has helped me out a bunch...heres the guide
http://www.envplastics.com/materials/pdfs/Sintra.pdf
http://www.envplastics.com/materials/pdfs/Sintra.pdf
petrosgraphics
New Member
this method works well..... sand the saw marks really well..to start
if you are painting the edge a color, use a latex primer, 2 coats should do it..
this trick works really good, if you are using black pvc , rub the edge with
methlene cloride ( resin bond) place it on a rag and wipe the edge, make sure
your edge is sanded, this works great, the edge smooths right out. almost a
polished look.. try it...
if you are painting the edge a color, use a latex primer, 2 coats should do it..
this trick works really good, if you are using black pvc , rub the edge with
methlene cloride ( resin bond) place it on a rag and wipe the edge, make sure
your edge is sanded, this works great, the edge smooths right out. almost a
polished look.. try it...
Kottwitz-Graphics
New Member
BrianKE
New Member
WOW, MEK?! I wouldn't touch this stuff with a ten foot pole. I used it once when I was working at an aerospace company to clean some very sticky adhesive from my hands. Made my skin tingle for about an hour. Came to find out that it is a known carcinogen and I believe has been outlawed in California and many other states.