Need Help Solid white for two-sided decals

[Brazen]

We use a Mimaki UCJV300-60 (LUS200 ink) with the Rasterlink 6+ to make double-sided cling to hang in store windows.
We typically run 5 layers color, white, shade, white, color. Problem being that the background white is too grey and we need to brighten up the white. It needs to fully block out the other side of the decal but still be white. Does anyone have tips for how to improve our result?

 

[WYLDGFI]

Its difficult to do anything Opaque with just the inks. What about just doing a double sided print on a 8oz DSS and apply optically clear adhesive to the face of one side. We've done that with good results.

 

[iPrintStuff]

Does it need to be one part? If you’re feeling lazy just reverse print on the clear and then print on the white. Throw the clear up then the white on top. Voila.

Does mean you’re using 2x the material though but you’ll save years in print times lol

 

[signheremd]

Another idea is to print on clear vinyl, laminate with white vinyl and print on the white vinyl (and laminate, optionally).

 

[Boudica]

one problem with two layers: reverse on clear, then white on the other side, is finding an opaque vinyl that has a clear adhesive. For projects like this, we use Glass Apeel. There is a member here BigFish who said he had an opaque white with clear adhesive -I keep forgetting to follow up with him on what that is

 

[iPrintStuff]

He mentioned it was cling. We get in clear and white cling no problem

 

[Brazen]

one problem with two layers: reverse on clear, then white on the other side, is finding an opaque vinyl that has a clear adhesive. For projects like this, we use Glass Apeel. There is a member here BigFish who said he had an opaque white with clear adhesive -I keep forgetting to follow up with him on what that is

Thanks! I'll check out the Glass Apeel product.
A lot of the two-sided cling work involves a custom shape so we end up mounting white vinyl and then the contour cutting afterwards. It would be nice to find a one step process that uses the printer white ink and cutting capability without additional material and or a separate cutting step.

 

[signage]

most white in is like a piece of paper print on both sides and hold you and you can see what is on the other side. You need something to make not semitransparent!

 

[Boudica]

most white in is like a piece of paper print on both sides and hold you and you can see what is on the other side. You need something to make not semitransparent!

Correct, that's why we've been talking about blockout vinyl - but needs to have a clear adhesive (not gray). I used the word "opaque" earlier - same as "blockout" to me.

 

[Philw]

We use a Mimaki UCJV300-60 (LUS200 ink) with the Rasterlink 6+ to make double-sided cling to hang in store windows.
We typically run 5 layers color, white, shade, white, color. Problem being that the background white is too grey and we need to brighten up the white. It needs to fully block out the other side of the decal but still be white. Does anyone have tips for how to improve our result?

I'm running a UCJV300-75 with LUS-170 white and have no problems, it's a good clean white with, in some lighting, a slightly cream cast but quite 'clean' irrespective. I'm picking up label work for white on clear prints that were initially run on other digital systems where the white was too grey to be accepted. My understanding is that the LUS-200 is preferred by NZ signwriters as there were complaints of the LUS-170 white ink cracking when posters were hit hard with a squeegee but for labels I believe the LUS-170 is a superior ink, very hard wearing. For either white on clear or 5-layer printing it's producing great results.

 

[FireSprint.com]

Ritrama window cal III works for this. A super opaque white and clear in the system.

You can also use something like General formulations rv8 and add a double sided mounting film like General Formulations 116. Make sure the RV8 is compatible with your printer.