Strange vertical pattern on prints - Oce Arizona

[Mimi9271]

If I rotate 90 or 180 degrees the lines still appear in the gradients. It's mainly my fine art profile. For the time being, I've just switched back to quality mode, which I've only had the problem appear once before with that mode/profile.

The photo has adequate pixels for small size 28x21cm, and has been proportionally downscaled in Caldera. No issues with vector files, so far —I believe vectors are using 16-bit rendering as default in Caldera while rasters I can select to enable/disable. Easiest thing is to trash the profile and keep using Quality mode as a work-around. Changing rendering intent to perceptual was what made the difference. I'm going to make a new fine art profile and see if the problem follows.



I'm printing on Alu-dibond. I have only one magenta nozzle out that comes-and-goes. The profile I use is profiled for acrylic. I've printed with the same settings to acrylic this same photo with good results. So it could be material/profile related. As I've mentioned, the problem comes and goes so maybe I just got lucky or sub-surface printing to acrylic doesn't reveal problem in same way as surface printing to dibond.

It's always a constant battle figuring out what settings work best —I only switched profiles because quality mode can produce gloss banding in particular files, which fine art mode doesn't. So I've exchanged one problem for another.

Ok, something that works sometimes for us: (because our rip station is old and suspicious) I re-rip the file and try printing it again. Magically, that works a lot of the time. Also I use Clear Substrate Day/Night Application setting for most of my media - Fine Art profile.

 

[chinaski]

What ink/head setup is on your Arizona?
I'm wondering if one of our custom 360 ones would import/work on your machine.

257 inks. I'm using 460xt.

I've got an i1pro2 with easy media access (Caldera) as well as x-rite's i1profiler. I've experimented, probably more than I should, with custom profiling. I've tested Ink limits, linearization limits, Black point start, GCR vs UCR, x-rite vs Caldera profiling, Lamp settings, Ink droplet # percentages, Bi vs Uni-directional printing, etc. There's no silver bullet.

I think the best way forward is to keep printing, note any anomalies and patterns over time and hopefully gain more clarity.

 

[chinaski]

Ok, something that works sometimes for us: (because our rip station is old and suspicious) I re-rip the file and try printing it again. Magically, that works a lot of the time. Also I use Clear Substrate Day/Night Application setting for most of my media - Fine Art profile.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try re-ripping the file.

No chance for gloss banding when printing sub-surface of clear media. I use the same or just CMYK-White-White —Depends on application.

 

[johnnysigns]

Did you determine if it's ink drop out? the heads aren't refilling fast enough for the mode you're printing in?

 

[Mimi9271]

257 inks. I'm using 460xt.

I've got an i1pro2 with easy media access (Caldera) as well as x-rite's i1profiler. I've experimented, probably more than I should, with custom profiling. I've tested Ink limits, linearization limits, Black point start, GCR vs UCR, x-rite vs Caldera profiling, Lamp settings, Ink droplet # percentages, Bi vs Uni-directional printing, etc. There's no silver bullet.

I think the best way forward is to keep printing, note any anomalies and patterns over time and hopefully gain more clarity.

Im laughing right now because Im currently trying to solve my own bizarre printing issue, and the only answer is to keep printing and testing : ) Its what we do!! Best of luck to you

 

[chinaski]

Did you determine if it's ink drop out? the heads aren't refilling fast enough for the mode you're printing in?

I'm quite doubtful ink drop out is the problem. I printed a bunch of full sheets and couldn't duplicate the problem when I changed profiles, from fine art to quality. Also when ink reservoir is low it fills relatively fast, which would suggest ink is filling with no problem, unless there's something else I'm missing. Only put <10 liters of ink through current filters.

Fine art mode is slower than quality, if anything, quality mode would reveal ink starvation before fine art mode.

Changing rendering intent is what made an immediate difference.

 

[johnnysigns]

Oh I must've missed that earlier in the post, I didn't realize it was RIP based and not a mechanical problem with the machine.

 

[ZakuzaLoopa]

Have you tried using a different brand of ink or media to see if that makes a difference? It's also worth considering whether the issue could be related to the printer itself.

 

[ToTo]

In caldera you can activate and deactivate each dropsize. Deactivate the 12pl drop, since it might cause deflection due to charging effects.

 

[chinaski]

In caldera you can activate and deactivate each dropsize. Deactivate the 12pl drop, since it might cause deflection due to charging effects.

Good tip. My only concern is that this will alter the color profile unless you were to make your profile with custom parameters and the smallest droplet size deactivated as a workaround.

Have you tried using a different brand of ink or media to see if that makes a difference? It's also worth considering whether the issue could be related to the printer itself.

I bought it used in 2018 and had 258 Marabu inks installed. I really didn't like that inkset (lost 2 printheads) and switched back to OEM 257 inks and have had a really good run with these inks for the past 3 years.

I believe that the bed isn't as level as it should be as the vertical lines correspond to the linear guide rail markings if that makes sense. Either way, the problem hasn't repeated itself since I first posted. I previously switched to printing mostly in the B-zone since the bed is more uniform there and no strange issues. As I've gone back to using both "A" and "B" zones of the printer, I haven't had the issue repeat.

 

[ToTo]

Good tip. My only concern is that this will alter the color profile unless you were to make your profile with custom parameters and the smallest droplet size deactivated as a workaround.


I bought it used in 2018 and had 258 Marabu inks installed. I really didn't like that inkset (lost 2 printheads) and switched back to OEM 257 inks and have had a really good run with these inks for the past 3 years.

I believe that the bed isn't as level as it should be as the vertical lines correspond to the linear guide rail markings if that makes sense. Either way, the problem hasn't repeated itself since I first posted. I previously switched to printing mostly in the B-zone since the bed is more uniform there and no strange issues. As I've gone back to using both "A" and "B" zones of the printer, I haven't had the issue repeat.

It’s about the second dropsize. You should leave the 6pl on, but in fact you need to do a new color calibration with this.
To check if table is level you can mount a dial gauge to the carriage and with opened drawe you can move carriage over entire table to check for differences. Maybe magnetic strips under the overlay causing this

 

[chinaski]

It’s about the second dropsize. You should leave the 6pl on, but in fact you need to do a new color calibration with this.
To check if table is level you can mount a dial gauge to the carriage and with opened drawe you can move carriage over entire table to check for differences. Maybe magnetic strips under the overlay causing this

Then the parameters would look like this from the profile creation/Easymedia stage?

I do have a magnetic dial gauge but haven't bothered with checking the levelness.

I guess I already know it's not level just from printing and carriage platten grazing the edge of media at the low points such that I've made adjustments (raised 0.15mm higher than actual media thickness). I was quoted a couple of grand to level the flatbed by installing leveling kit and following that with printhead calibrations but that seems like a steep price to pay for my one-man shop. Otherwise, I'm content with the machine and would only go through with that if the problem was exacerbated.

Is leveling something that can be done without a technician? If I print my ruler across the bed at zero height, the carriage platten will just slightly scrape on the last couple of passes in the A-zone. I've considered mounting the dial gauge, locating the spot where the gap is the smallest, and then using a wrench to make a small rotation of the leg to expand the gap, but I'm not sure what sort of downstream effect that could cause.

I've cleaned under the magnetic strip and I don't think there is any delamination of the table, as I've heard that can be an issue as the machine ages (2014-model).

 

[ZakuzaLoopa]

Have you tried using a different brand of ink or media to see if that makes a difference? It's also worth considering whether the issue could be related to the printer itself.

In the meantime, have you thought about using a different printing method, like screen printing or tattooing? Persian Tattoo's are known for their intricate designs and vibrant colors, and could be a great alternative if you're having trouble with your printer. I hope this helps and that you're able to find a solution soon.

 

[ToTo]

Then the parameters would look like this from the profile creation/Easymedia stage?
View attachment 163368


I do have a magnetic dial gauge but haven't bothered with checking the levelness.

I guess I already know it's not level just from printing and carriage platten grazing the edge of media at the low points such that I've made adjustments (raised 0.15mm higher than actual media thickness). I was quoted a couple of grand to level the flatbed by installing leveling kit and following that with printhead calibrations but that seems like a steep price to pay for my one-man shop. Otherwise, I'm content with the machine and would only go through with that if the problem was exacerbated.

Is leveling something that can be done without a technician? If I print my ruler across the bed at zero height, the carriage platten will just slightly scrape on the last couple of passes in the A-zone. I've considered mounting the dial gauge, locating the spot where the gap is the smallest, and then using a wrench to make a small rotation of the leg to expand the gap, but I'm not sure what sort of downstream effect that could cause.

I've cleaned under the magnetic strip and I don't think there is any delamination of the table, as I've heard that can be an issue as the machine ages (2014-model).

on the legs you won’t be able to adjust head-media-distance. If there is a need to adjust you have to adjust the gantry. And this is not trivial since you have to adjust slant as well. A magnetic dial gauge isn’t helpful since there isn’t any magnetic metal used on accessible parts of carriage.
To check for delaminated table structure measure carriage-table distance with removed overlays on several points.