Wall Vinyl

[Hog Wild graphics]

I done a few wall vinyl jobs. I have one that is on Wafer board. I know it needs something applied to it before I can get the vinyl to stick. Do I need to just paint it clear? What options do I have?

 

[CS-SignSupply]

Wafer board = Peg Board ??

If you do paint it, be sure to paint both sides. If only one side is printed, the board will want to warp or bow out.

 

[Hog Wild graphics]

The walls are already up. It's like plywood but instead of smooths surface it seems to be made of pieces of wood chips.

 

[signage]

That is one type of particle board!

 

[CS-SignSupply-TT]

wafer board aka particle board

That is one type of particle board!

+1 You need to paint it with the thickest paint (2-3 coats). That way you will create a surface that the wall vinyl has a good chance of adhering to.

 

[CS-SignSupply]

OSB ? Oriented Strand Board

 

[signage]

OSB ? Oriented Strand Board

Yes that is the building trade name for it.

 

[Hog Wild graphics]

Thats what it looks like. I will get someone to paint it. And then wait about a wekk before install.

 

[Letterbox Mike]

Paint with several coats of gloss paint, preferably oil based, allow to cure as long as possible (2 weeks or more is ideal), then use a good cast vinyl, or a high-bond vinyl meant for textured surfaces. I wouldn't trust a traditional wall vinyl on that kind of texture, I have doubts as to how long, if at all, it'll stay stuck in place.

 

[CS-SignSupply-TT]

Not to belabor the point, but is this an interior wall or a wall that rear faces the exterior? If it rear faces the exterior, what about insulation? Heat, cold, and humidity will be menacing.

 

[Hog Wild graphics]

All interior walls. Fully insulated and climate controlled.

 

[CS-SignSupply-TT]

I don't think you can create a smooth enough surface for WALL VINYL. I am +1 on INSIGNIA's recommendations, including the use of vinyl with a removable adhesive

 

[TyrantDesigner]

OSB ? Oriented Strand Board

I hate that garbage ... with moisture in the air it will cause any paint to crack as the wood shifts under the cheap (formaldehyde base) adhesive. your best bet would have been when it was off to seal the back completely with an oil based sealer then using an automotive primer to do multiple paint and sand jobs before applying a surface coat.

+1 to the idea of using standard vinyl as I would give it a year before that surface looks like garbage and or has peeling vinyl.

Inform the customer of this as well. ... if they need a fix, masonite can be applied to the surface with a laminate adhesive and brads then painted with a good oil based primer and glossy paint which will last a LOONNNGGG time and give good results.