sfr table hockey

Profile posts Latest activity Postings Media Albums About

  • If you are getting banding (left to right) the width of the printer or feed direction.

    1. Make sure your basic test print is not missing lines. A few are ok and will still print fine but if you get a couple together you will notice. See drop out. If you do the (fill) test print, in service menu, you will notice where the missing lines are in the solid fill test print. Because when you print most things you use all the colors to make color, those missing spots tend not to be see. If you set your color to 100% C,M,Y or K you may see that line in those areas.

    2. Make sure you have done your Bi directional adjustment in the menu. I like to use service menu, head adjust and do Head Adjust>Test Print. This does the bias and directional test prints. Make sure your bias is lined up within that 1/2 line or better if you can.
    3. Check the Calib. Default>Feed>Test Priint in the service menu as well. This should print out a set of 3 lines that wave and you pick the best row for being straight. If this is out you will see banding.

    4. As heads get to the end of their life they can band but most times they loose lines as they get to this point or you start seeing deflection in the lines.
    For Roland CJ,SC 500 or FJ 42,52

    If you get contamination in the heads (different color in a head than should be)

    1 Check the captops and see if the filter is bumping up and touching the heads. This will cause a draw and can contaminate the others head colors. This can also cause the ink to drain from the carts to the drain bottle or back draw into another color and contaminate the damper and line.

    2 If when you do a cleaning the ink pools in the captops this can cause contamination and is due to the drain lines being plugged. Most likely the small clear lines under the captops.
    If your lines don't stay full of ink and run back to the carts from the dampers:

    1 Check the damper to make sure it is seated tight.

    2 Check the oring under the brass nut as well that the nut is tight.

    3 If you attach a syring to the line direct from where the brass nut would connect to the damper, draw a bit with the syringe and see if the line stays at the same level. If it drops back from there you have a break in the line to the carts.
    If you get heads dropping out and not recharging:
    1 Check drain lines as they may be getting plugged. Remove the line from the capping station and force cleaning fluid through the line to the drain bottle with a syringe. Watch for pressure when you do this as if there is a blockage you can get a back spray, so hold a paper towel over the connection when removing and forcing solution.

    2 make sure the small rectangular box on the right is set propper and plugs the small nibs when the heads are on then capping station.
    If you get dropout after printing a portion of a print and the head does not recharge check this first:
    1 make sure the clear lines that run from under the captops are clear and not blocked. Either remove to check or try to blow air through by connecting a syringe to the end that connects to the small rectangle block on the right and front oc the capping station.

    2 If damper is also not recharging check for an air bubble in the line. Can happen when you replace a new cart.

    3 Make sure the temperature in the room is not too cold. SB above 65 F.
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
Top