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Not a generic one. You can take a pump that already has the pins and connector to a local electronics shop and they should be able to help you identify. You can check with digikey, once the sizes are identified.

The vacuum to the bed. You should have zones on there that you can turn to half or lower than half if needed. Or you can try using a lead sheet first.

I know post is old but thought I chime in. You will need new pins to crimp on and the actual molex connector. It would be in your best interest to have new pins and not to reuse old pins.

I assume the banding stops after a few inches or so and prints fine after? If so, it is suction related. Lower your suction to half or use a lead sheet.

If 75% or more of your print is rigid material, than a flat bed is the way to go. Double sided prints on a hybrid is possible but it will not be as accurate as a flat bed.

Sounds like the issue may be within the reader than. The wires maybe rubbing against the cover as it goes back and forth and one or all of the wires are shorting as it comes in contact.

Sounds like it could be a damaged raster reader or strip. Inspect the strip for any damages or deep scratches. Inspect the reader as well. Make sure the wires on the reader are not exposed or damaged. You can run the printer without the raster strip over on.

If you've already done the purge through the vent tube, I would say the print head is shot.

If the box is checked, it disables the clean spray. The default settings, I believe, are 15 secs and 5 sprays. The settings for the clean spray will vary, depending on the enviornment of your location. Temp, humidity, elevation can affect the negative pressure which in turn affects the nozzles...

Pump will not pressurize the lines because the pumps only activate when ink level in the secondary ink tank is low. If the valves are in the off position, no ink will be consumed.