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That sound interesting.... I'm gonna start googling this. Any guide will be very helpful. Thanks!

Good afternoon, I am not sure if this is the right place to ask or not, if not.. please tell me where to go. I am looking for a software that would automate the process of making virtuals automated. In my company we sell small items and customize them with the client's logo. Sometimes we have...

We have the JFK-200... and the side, adjustable, lamps never turn on. I've only seen them on when a tech was doing some testing... and they were actually white, not violet light. Am i imagining things?

Not sure how to do this on R5 since I don't even know if you can combine layers in it. What we do at my place is, convert anything that is white to 1% yellow in corel draw. Then in R5, make a white layer with pixels settings selected (not whole image). Hope I am being clear....

Great information, thank you!!

Not sure but perhaps this thread might help you: http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?126463-Flatbed-Printer-Carriage-Soak

Would it be a good idea to use this on a Mimaki JFX-200? (UV pritner) Also... since it melted the tubing, I guess it would not be a good idea to let it soak on the capping station? Might "melt" the plastic from the capping stations? Thanks for this info!

just for curiosity, what kind of head is it, i mean from what kind of printer and what is NMP? Thanks!

Yes, there is a setting in Rasterlink5 to do just that. First you need to double click on the file to get into its settings, then go to Color Edit (Tab) > Special Color Adjustment > Special Color Correction In there check the check box "Correcting Layer Gap" and check on "Correction of size"...

Do you make the layer of white thinner? I usually do 3px thinner to prevent that.

Hi, we have the 200. I heard they have a new primer "ink" that you can have on your machine. Problem with that is that it would take double time to print because it first has to "print" the primer and on top of that the color, and worse if you need to print white first. We don't print on...

well you don't have to, just go somewhere else if they can't take your business.

Hello, I'm trying to find inks for pad an screen printing but cheaper than inkCups or Pad print machinery. Their stuff runs for around 70-90 dollars per pint. We use them to imprint on metals and plastics. Any recommendation is welcomed. Thanks!

At my place we are using 150, but thinking to move to the 100 because seems like the 100 stick better to metal tins. Still debating that decision thought.

they look a little dirty, but sometimes that is just normal. I would suggest to soak a lint free cloth and clean the heads with it very gently.

Just like WalkerP says. Try soaking it overnight and then try a flush... if that doesn't solve the problem, think about getting a new head. Don't take this as an personal advise since I have not tried that myself.. but If you decide to get a new head.. I have seen two different Mimaki...

A little hard to see but seems like cyan is affecting the most. I believe is a problem with those nozzles missing. On the flat printer I operate, even with only 1 nozzle missing, I can see the banding, it really sucks.

can you post a picture of a nozzle test? Even if you are missing just one nozzle, it will give you this problem. :(

yes I guess? It is called primer by mimaki, so it is not my own term :) This is what Mimaki sells : http://www.mimakiusa.com/supply/ink/i_uv_primer/csv-156976.html But in my own experience, it sucks. Did not help with any of the items we tried on.

We have a JFX-200 and we print on hinged tins. I've tried the Mimaki primer and it is the worst compared to anything we've tried. And by primer I don't mean paint, I mean a solution that helps the ink from the printer to stick to the surface of the tins.