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If you want to make hard to tamper with labels, UVDTF procedure works very well, but needs a special printer. I typically do a similar process and then mix in an IR-IR marker ink, or blacklight ink to make it a mofo to replicate. Since there is no true backer substrate, intact removal is...

Seen some good results with Natron UV primer, but never used it myself. Basically a brush-on product. Might be able to get samples.

Go to the Quality tab in Rasterlink and look for the middle of the page to set scan and feed compensation. It will have a field for the image size and printed size. That should get you squared away.

Never had good luck with Mimaki's PR-200 on metal. I tend to use an etching primer or media blast some texture for good grip. Cleaning the surface with ethyl acetate, acetone or other strong low-residue solvents works too. Stuff like Windex has surfactants that can cause some major issues with...

We have a spot for people to pimp their stuff while supporting the forums, I will leave people alone there. Here' it's all fair game for me to make fun of things. If you have the best of the best and people are falling over themselves to buy that stuff, toss a few bucks at the board and post a...

I've run 5, 6 and 7 on the same install of Windows 10 with no issues. Sometimes I work on the Mimaki dinosaurs.

So, another seller or drop-shipper of cheap rebadged LED stuff, but you have extras in stock locally to cover when things screw up. Not really a new business model, but also a ton of red flags for goofballs like us. I wonder if people have to pay in the crypto.

Try it in RasterLink 7? Both versions can coexist on the same computer, and the upgrade is free if you have a 6 key. See here: https://mimaki.com/news/software/entry-380827.html 7 seems a bit better at handling larger files, however I have not run a UJV55 myself.

If paying a pro to do it, have them do it their way, If doing it solo, take tips from us idiots. :rolleyes:

Best bet is to get a set of flush cartridges and purge the lines until they run clear by pulling ink through the old dampers. Can use a large syringe to pull the fluid/old ink out through the lines, but you will need to push in the cartridge valves behind the ink station manually by hand. If the...

The head is 8 channel, so yes. Can also double up on some colors and not on others. Say CMYKCMLcLm or whatever if the RIP supports it.

I'd go with 6, but that's probably because I have bad luck with 5 running well on modern systems.

Pretty much every Summa I have seen has that happen, mine included. Don't get me wrong, I love my Summa cutter, and wouldn't dare question the omniscient deities on high that would clearly have only designed this intentionally. Ours is affixed in place with zip-ties, courtesy of the previous...

Basically stuck with using the color sets your printer supports, or finding a RIP that lets you set individual ink channels by color.

Best bet for building up clear is a CMYK/Clear gloss on pass 1, then pull-back and do a second gloss. Will get some nice thick prints, at least in my experience. Using Rasterlink 7 here, so not sure if using aftermarket RIPs.

If it is a stuck SSR, it will keep heating until a thermal fuse breaks circuit. Not sure what the cutoff is on those (I mostly do UV, no need for the heaters), but I imagine 50-80C would be in the realm of a safe cutoff. That said, the firmware seems to know what the temp is (assuming it is...

Air in the heads from a poor bleed or leak can be the main cause, as well as dampers not snugly in place. Sometimes the seals in the damper ports on the head can creep out as well, or jump out when you're not looking.

I co-own a small specialty print shop and do technician work for a Mimaki vendor on the side. We're broke, but we have fun, and it's good motivation to find solutions. As for Chinese vendors, sometimes you just have to ask. Offer them some of the work that I already plan to release, and they see...

There are retrofit kits readily available, and lots of printers are dame near commodity parts nowadays. Skipping ink DRM and the like will help a lot since you just need to track ink with basic electronics like float switches. At the moment, it's mostly collecting parts and specs and going from...

Single pass printers tend to use industrial heads like the Toshiba CE4 (Mimaki's UJF3042/6042 MKII use them), 4 channels would be good, 8 ideal for white base coat, but all depends on materials. Never got anywhere with Epson, so no good deal on their heads. One of the Chinese companies that...