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Unless you have a lab that can do accelerated environmental testing, your testing is done in the field. I tend to agree with RJ that the resin is interacting with the inks (personally, I like the darker look though :-)). In any case, I've got a domed decal I did on my truck as a test bed.. been...
You'll be fine. I usually do stuff like that with enamels, but I don't see why automotive acrylic enamel wouldn't work. You can save a step by masking the surface before you rout your copy - that way you can paint over your mask and not touch the surface with the paint.
I'm going to second the knife calibration. I've got a T750 that's over 15 years old and I just replaced the head last year as it was starting to do what you are looking at. It's remotely possible that the head wasn't set correctly at the factory or it got moved/damaged in shipment. Call Summa -...
I'd ask for a daylight photo or two. I can't see the 680 failing like that, and I've never had a paint "bleed" through that would affect the vinyl in such a fashion. It's remotely possible they cleaned the truck with something that affected only the back doors, but that's reaching.
The walls will just be painted. With what, I don't know. It's a firing range, so I'm going to guess something simple and with a gloss. I don't plan on taping anything to the pvc.. as mentioned, it won't hold. Hence my thoughts on screwing a full length cleat to the back. Now I'm thinking to...
Ok, here's the deal. Customer wants 6 large (4' x 8') panels mounted on an interior wall just above shoulder height. They want something "dimensional", the panels will have a full coverage digital print. The wall is solid high compression concrete... think bomb shelter stuff. Initially they...
I'd just glue the inlay with the clear acrylic glue. Why do you want to encapsulate everything? I'm half thinking depending on where it's going to be there might be some issue with expansion that might pop the resin.
Yes, you have to draw the ink through the lines somehow to fill the dampers. Most people use a syringe on the line right at the damper until the ink gets there, then drawing from the drain line, creating that suction on the maintenance station.
I'm using the 3M as well. Tried some other, less expensive brands but unfortunately the 3M seems to work 'best'. Yes to anything printed you want to last - you need to laminate. Street signs are regulated unless they are in a private community. You need to follow strict MUTCD guidelines... most...
I was leaning towards the 3425 but my books are so old I couldn't trust if that was a close color. I'll have to test print up some pieces and see what works. But that's a good start - thanks!
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