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I didn't catch that you were in Canada. NFPA for vehicles may not apply there. From a quick search it looks like Canada only adopted NFPA certification in 2014.. you may want to talk with the department to see if they are required to have DG3 material. Local emergency management teams around...

Yes, there are pre-made panels for those trucks. Only a few companies offer them, and they aren't cheap. They start with the lime green and overlay the red translucent. I've always done mine with strips of 6". Time consuming, but offers the same end look. If it's a new truck, have them leave off...

That's what I'm thinking based on how the V in the W is shaped. Straight cut from whatever material, then hand routed with a bevel bit and bearing. Quick work once you get the hang of it - even quicker if the hand router is stationary mounted in a table.

I haven't. I haven't had an opportunity to use any of their products, unfortunately. I've bought several of their larger samples and was impressed with the quality, though some items are a bit glossy to be realistic.

That's my thought as well, sky. I've been reading up on the Pitbull. Never used Convex before, but this is probably a good application for it since they'll be crashing through woods with it.

Texture Plus is a urethane foam product. I have their sample case here. Some pretty neat stuff, from diamond plate to bamboo textures.

Hi all, I've got a fire department that bought themselves a new ATV (Bombardier, I believe). Stopped out to look at it yesterday and it looks like 99% of the body is a low energy plastic. There are a few decals from the factory.. not very thick like Convex.. that are already on there (will be...

I'm going to have to ask if you're quoting $200K in a project, how is a sheet of HDU out of the budget? It won't be (that much) cheaper than a cedar blank, and you'll have the option of either v-carving into the blank, adding woodgrain, simulating a sandblasted look or all of the above. Too many...

Looks like a material issue or even a heat issue to me. I've had "same" materials act completely different from time to time. No explanation except weather.. :-)

When I had my 4B that was a very common problem. Didn't matter what kind of vinyl I ran through it, just seemed to collect the adhesive from the holes. Once a week with a brass brush and all was good. A little alcohol went a long way as well.

Nope. Off topic and feel free to move or delete, Fred. VWoA will actively pursue any image of a Beetle, whether new or old, including any name that has the initials VW associated with auto repair of Volkswagens unless the owner specifically obtains permission from VWoA. Case in point - one of my...

^ Yep, or a simple inkjet print. Also remind your customer that if VWoA catches wind of that logo, he will receive a cease and desist. And yes, I know people that has happened to.

I've got CF overlam here, but it isn't rated outdoors, and also NLA from that particular manufacturer (Eclypse). They're out there, you just have to watch if they are rated exterior or not.

Could be you're not letting the print dry long enough as well. Are you laminating? Just a straight print? Don't sand the pvc... easy solution that (works for me) is to wipe the pvc with alcohol to clean it, follow that with a wipe of acetone. Put your print down immediately after all the...

Pretty open statement. Without more information there is no correct answer (how old is the vinyl, what is it on, what type of vinyl, etc). Usually, if the vinyl is peeling, you do the project over rather than try to save it.

Never use florentine for anything, but RealGold has one: http://www.realgoldinc.com/Vinyl Far more expensive than you're used to, but when you need it, you need it.

RTape VinylFX is the largest I've seen, since they bought out the old Coburn company some time ago.

Eh.. you might be able to restart the print where it left off, most times you'll need to start that portion over. Clean the head really well and have someone roll out the banner material while it's on the machine while you or someone else tracks that thread and pulls it loose. Hand-roll the...

No, you're right, but flex face requires an extrusion in order to tension correctly. There is really no way to hide seams as you are describing unless you want to run an additional portion of the print where the seam will be and apply that to a piece of aluminum T molding, and slip that in...

Check your PF as well. Had the same thing, reduced the feed and it helped.