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I've got a couple of those polishing bits, using both for the Zund and the multicam. Works as intended, and leaves a very nice edge, straighter than flame polishing. Takes some time depending on how thick acrylic, since it has to polish only 5mm at the time.

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To be fair the 480 and the 660 has different head configurations. The 660 can print banding free, but only in slower speeds. I had both, upgraded from the 460 to the 660 to be able to produce faster. But in the end i had to produce at fine art or quality smooth to be able to get banding free...

Well, for what it's worth, this 2.8 gig TIF file ripped without errors. I tried 5 times, ripping for my oce arizona, HP latex and roland eco-solvent, on different modes. The HP is contone so it ripped in 1 second :) (the printer rips onboard) But the others ripped the image in 1 minute, 42 seconds.

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We do very seldom have problems with errors in RIP. It can happen from time to time, but always gives a rip error right at the start, then we need to find the error in the file or use another format. I think you will see less errors with the all PDF workflow and adobe RIP than you do today with...

Shouldn't really matter, doub't you see much difference between them.

I am in the same situation as you, we rip alot of big stuff. Big banners etc, often over 100 m2 per file. We have a intel i7 with SSD + 32 gig ram. We just upgraded from Onyx Thrive 11.1 to 12.1 It was a huuuuuuuge speed increase, and we save almost hours every day on the upgrade. Both rip and...

zs - for kiss cut it is alot faster than zp. For creasing use zp. Oscilating use zs or zp, doesnt really matter Uct on zp So essentially everything that needs downpressure on zp, zs for everything else :)

Great, happy cutting :)

ZP gives you a lot more downpressure as it's more powerfull, maybe try it, 30 kg's of downforce. Does it cut trough some sections and not other parts? Try going down even more. I cut at 1000mm/sec and -0,3 mm, 1 pass. Sorry for the metric units :)

Should cut trough like butter. Did you try lowering the knife 0,1 - 0,2 mm ? Are you using the ZS or ZP module?

Chipping and low adhesion goes hand in hand :) use other aluminium brand :)

Also do a scrape test of the ink before laminating. You should not be able to scrape the ink of easily. On the plates i had problem with, i could use a strip of laminate and pull the ink right off. On good plates i can pull the laminate off and the ink stays on the plate.

I just ran into this problem when printing on go-bond with aluminium surface. Using vink's i-bond with the aluminium finish works flawless. The difference is in the coating between the the two products, but i don't find any data sheets to confirm what type of coating it is. The notable thing...