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I'm having issues printing direct to a backlit material (blitsol) with my Colorado 1650. Every time we print on the backlit material and shine the light behind it it looks washed out. Does it need to be double hit like I've seen on some other posts? Do I need to print a layer of white behind it...

I have the 2260 XT. I love it, we've done ~300k square feet in roughly two years. Covid crushed our market this year, we might have twice that by now if it weren't for the virus.

I've had to remove UV ink from a 1/2 inch acrylic art piece. We did not want to eat that cost. So we drowned the print in denatured alcohol and it wrinkled right off. Super cool looking, and saved the large piece of acrylic to re-do

As for head height, I would mic it (without squeezing the material) and print even a little higher than that. I can't imagine you'd be printing anything highly detailed. I'd run my lamps at the same I would most other things, I wouldn't worry about the material warping during print, but if...

Good to know! Thanks for the info!

What's the purpose of the third cmyk layer? I know it's an application in day/night printing, but I'm not sure what purpose it serves here. Can you enlighten me?

I agree with everyone here that your lights are the first thing you'll want to check. Also, has your supplier changed the material you're printing on? Some cheaper materials haven't been treated properly to create proper ink adhesion, even if your lights are curing everything okay.

Just did this recently. Although we used IJ39 and 8519. We wrapped around the edges of the door, customer hasn't had any issues and it's been about a month.

Ah, I see. I might have to bite the bullet and get some of that promoter, trying to decide if the shipping fee is worth it. Definitely jealous not being in reasonable proximity to nanovations!

So you just printed directly onto glass without any sort of adhesion promoter? Did you print on any specific side of the glass? This is just kind of a pet project for me for my own printing needs, (and maybe a bit of R and D for my company).

I'm not familiar with that model, but I run a 2200 oce. Looks like you might need to change your cyan ink filter.

I tried making a profile out of a similar material, which some pretty interesting results. My robot didn't register yellow, so it just decided to not have yellow within that profile. I just use a higher resolution profile for one of my generic substrates. Unless you're using white ink the color...

Welcome, I run an Oce 2260 xt, feel free to ask any questions

I've successfully printed on frosted glass with solvent ink. When we tried with our gel printer the ink came off with the transfer paper. So a laminate would be your safe bet.

This is exactly what I need for another project that I'm working on. Too bad I can't get it outside of Australia ;(

Thanks I'll have to check this out! I have a customer that wants us to print on a product called Silestone, which is made out of some kind of quartz and non-porous. I printed on a sample of that stuff and had some minor scratching through concerted effort. This may help with that, too. I...

I have an Oce Arizona with white/white, and have been curious about experimenting with printing on glass. I have an adhesion promoter but the company I requested the sample from provided no TDS, and have been radio silent since I've tried to request one, so I don't know how to use it (also can't...

Interesting point, I've been researching printing on glass, I even have an adhesion promoter for it, (although no TDS from the company I got it from). So maybe that would be applicable to Silestone. Thanks for your reply!

We have a client asking us if we can print onto a material called Silestone, which is quartz, has anyone any experience with printing on stone? I know we've printed on ceramic tiles in the past, I have a feeling this won't be quite the same. We have an Arizona 2260 XT that we would be using...