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Mmmmmm... Bacon...

I grew up in a body shop, and had my own for many years. +1 for Imron, used it extensively in the automotive world, and in this industry, for sign faces, frames, poles, whatever, it can't be beat, plus they can match corporate colors. It's glossy without clear coat, catalyzed for hardness, and...

Regular Iso is slow, Rapid Remover is a lot quicker. If it's really heavy or hardened adhesive residue on raw aluminum you can experiment with harsher stuff like denatured alcohol solvent or acetone, they're cheap, cut adhesive fast, and evaporate quick. Wet it, let soak for a minute and use a...

They did this instead of just buying real ones while their shop was down :roflmao: https://www.riverfronttimes.com/news/st-louis-turns-to-cardboard-stop-signs-in-temporary-fix-40715246

Check with Midwest Sign Supply in Chicago, we used to get it from there. https://www.midwestsignsupplyco.com/

Are you using OEM dampers, or aftermarket? A lot of aftermarket ones are just junk. Also check lines for any air bubbles, that can also cause issues that seem like dampers are the culprit.

I went to reform school... Double major, drunk and disorderly :toasting:

The future...

That'll probably do it. We do decals for one customer, and size has to be pretty dead on. Started out having minor size issues, always in the feed direction, then I started checking the feed comp before every run for them, and we have no more issues. Initially ours was off by around the same as...

It's not just Corel that has issues with them... To avoid headaches when I get Canva created files, I try to open them once, if they don't open right, if they aren't usable, or print ready, I just smile, and flat out reject them. I don't get a lot of them thankfully.

Feed compensation... It doesn't have to be off by much, not even enough to band, but on long runs it adds up. It's in the user menu (either machine setup or maintenance, can't remember which) easy to perform, straight forward how it works, print the test pattern, and simple +/- setting to get...

When you print on prism materials with solvent or eco-sol inks, the prism will show through colors like the pics you posted, you just have to play with ink limits/ number of overprints to get whatever you desire for opaqueness. UV printers will be more opaque, so you can't get the prism to show...

Easier way, 1/2" fiberglass reflective marker poles, Rebar rusts quick, and is pretty unforgiving if you hit em' with snowblowers or vehicles, plus once you get snow banks, you probably won't see anything but the top of the pole anyway. An alternative to a full cover is flags on top with their...

I get em' from cheap wrap tools. They have Teflon and nylon squeegees, 4 & 6 inch, nice suede cover on one edge. They don't sell much, but what they do is good stuff for the price. https://cheapwraptools.com/

Laser bananas, maybe, laser pecker... Ummmm... No thanks :noway:

Sounds like he's "old school", thinking how if you go to a store, buy 5 items, you get one receipt, because it all came from the same store. Might be hard for him to comprehend that when you buy from a marketplace like Amazon, when you order 5 items, it's kind of like going to 5 different...

Another +1 on material. Fish-eyes like that normally happen when either the material is contaminated, or a quality issue in the coating. Contact your supplier.

Yup, just un-check this box, and they go bye-bye.

It's excellent design software, been using it for a couple years. I just export print files as EPS or PDF, open with, and rip/ print in Rasterlink.

My brain hurts now...