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That's what I keep hearing, lots of good....What do you mean by non-digital grade?

My company's production print shop is pretty loosy goosy with technology and I'm trying to fix this. 5 printers that all have their quirks color wise but I'm looking to try and get things dialed in a bit better. Other that manually adjusting everything was there any tools/stuff you do that helps...

We'll thanks for commenting on my post without having a clue about digitech printers to 'splain to me about how people have opinions that are not always true...had no idea:doh:..oh lordy...

S OK, soooo what UV LED Printer are you using to achieve this? what adh. promoter do you use? what is your process?

I am aware of that, I'm still looking for someone who has this printer and has experience with glass. It's a smaller part of what I need this printer to achieve, but real humans who have done it have a lot more pull in my mind than a salesperson telling me that it's possible.

My company is looking into replacing a snail slow UV Flatbed flatbed and I'm wondering how Digitech ink sets(are they propietary? their website has little to no info on the subject) stand up with printing glass? I've actually been in talking to the owner and I'd love to see some real world users...

Agreed...they really want to sell me a New Colorado with the flatbed I think.

So my company is looking for a new LED uv flatbed printer and I've been shopping around(any recommendations welcome). Canon reps call me and they tell me since I have eco solvent printers that I shouldn't have a UV printer in the same room with it since it will eat the print heads. First time...

My company has the printer in question as well and it has been a ungodly pile since about a year after we installed it. Between the slow speeds, colors dropping mid print, endless tech visits, and shear frustration I will be very happy when my company figures out how much time and money this...

Never send files without the cheddar in hand or a good contract so you can go after them if they don't pay. Verbal agreements are never remembered that same way by both parties.

Try to pull ink from the dampers. We are literally waiting for parts to fix this exact problem, we had a yellow damper plug up and it will print a couple of inches and then just fade off..turning all my nice reds a lovely pink.

I would put it on its own layer and click the box next to the "eyeball" in the layers panel. Should turn on a little "lock" symbol. Trace over top in a separate layer.

If you use control-Y to show outlines and it looks like a pile of random squares all over the screen I wouldn't dig too much. I deal with a lot of files from overseas that aren't actually created in Illustrator but they save it out as an AI..and spent hours fixing them so I can actually...

I have 2 of these printers and as dumb as it sounds, Sometimes you need to change the black cartridge to a brand new one if one color is having problems...obviously only if you use cartridges but this usually works my banding issue right out if it's not the cap. You could have a bad cap too...

I think there's really no solution other that a clear coat of some kind to protect it.

I feel your pain... I did find that if I print for outdoor I can laminate with a UV laminate and i've had some signs out for 2 years and they still look good..might help you out for the next run. I am in Wisconsin though, might not cut it in the south.

UV ink on glass has trash adhesion..Sitting in water will almost certainly make it come off. When we first got our UV flatbed(Roland euv) I did a large glass job that looked fine...for the first week. Week later the ink started to roll, and I mean in sheets, off the glass. I will say it was...

You could do vinyl lettering(on clear) and look for white polycarb to apply that to. I would also split this job in half....easier to work with and plexi and poly come in standard 48 x 96 sheets usually and you will pay a lot of extra trying to get a 9 x 5 ft sheet just to take 9 in off the side.