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Yep....just like what happened when the small affordable vinyl cutters (a la Cricut) came out. Everyone and their sister were making "custom" decals and totally devalued the work we all do. Not worth the effort unless you have a brilliant business plan for selling that kind of stuff.

You throw them away? I just send my blade out for resharpening.

I do this and occasionally have issues with lining up. It seems to happen most on jobs that are 4 or 5 panels, where just one out of the batch is off. And the length of the panel is different, almost like the art was stretched during printing.

Looks like a Kabel, Futura, Gil Sans Black hybrid.

Is anyone else with this same bucket of bolts having issues with skew correction? It is getting bad. I bet I spend 45 minutes to an hour every day in total with this thing, adjusting and readjusting the vinyl so it isn't skewed. Isn't one of the wonderful features of this f*&%%ing thing that it...

Yeah you're gonna have to print that one.

Yeah ours has become cantankerous lately. I have had numerous instances of it running off track with roll vinyl. Using all rollers, even on just 30" rolls. And also my ongoing issue of the stupid thing feeding out WAAY more vinyl than needed for a job. If you have 4 feet of vinyl left on a roll...

When you close the program it saves the setup.

What are you wearing....Jake....?

So our 160 S2 does not always scroll the roll to the beginning of the roll. In other words, I load a roll of vinyl to cut, and if I pull out a foot or two to get it straight and tight, and hit the button to load, it doesn't take it up to the beginning, so I have manually roll it back. Is there a...

Usually only use heat on matte and luster laminates, as they tend to silver. Gloss laminates don't so that as much. But you are free to use heat assist on anything really, but too much heat can stretch your cast laminates and cause issues, so use little as possible. I don't go over 90 degrees on...

CNC for paper?? I think he is just slicing off from a linear roll of prints.

I have this issue cutting Motomark and any vinyl laminated with polycarb lam....it's so stiff it doesn't "roll" over the platen and lay flat. Will try the swab trick next time.

How do you figure? That looks to me like just cut vinyl on brushed silver ACM. No dimension to the letters at all.

Optima

Recommend, sell, and use the right material, or walk away.

We use Walk and Wall. Can't laminate it....it's textured for its intended purpose. We've done for outdoors as well as indoors and works great. One outside our front door gets plenty of foot traffic and have replaced it twice in 2 years. As long as someone isn't sitting there trying to scuff it...

We've been doing a lot of that. We leave stuff in the back of one of our shop trucks. So far it hasn't been a problem. If we're in the shop, we just have the orders sitting up front of our counter, and we have floor graphics notifying to stay within that area.

We did this property, all full 4x8 sheets of Brushed DiBond with standoffs. Not how WE wanted it done but the customer.. They've held up fine.

GF 226 is a standard wall vinyl many shops use. Works fine as a wall vinyl, as it's intended. Avery 2610 works well, 3M IJ 3555 works. But the ones designed for wall murals are usually 6mil, thicker than standard vinyls, to make them easy to install. They don't stretch either so lining up...