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A few ideas I thought would be either roller marks, or a bad profile for the material.

Other random things that also come to mind. Have you changed cap tops lately? Are your Positive and Negative pressures in spec? Have you done an air purge? It seems you have gone above what I listed above, especially with the air purge. But I know the cap tops can sometimes cause weird issues...

Try something like my file below (sorry its sloppy just wanted to get the point across). Straight lines with overcut. From my understanding of the machine and your problem, the knife is not turning fast enough to get you your nice straight lines. Having extra lead in at the beginning of a cut...

I suggest looking at Colex, good straight forward entry machine, easy to learn and maintain.

Instead of different artboard, just create a new layer. ctrl+c, then ctrl + f (this is paste in place). Drag the newly pasted text onto new layer, outline one of the texts and just turn off the visibility on the editable text. That way you can always go back and change without much trouble or...

I am sure Solventinkjet will be happy to hear that. They are always super helpful on this site as well if you ever run into any trouble.

This is how I do it too on Windows. Just copy and paste the file from your plug-ins folder from an older version into the newer version. Haven't had any issues with this yet.

If it were me, I would go to https://stackoverflow.com/

I like this. I used to use an Acuity Advance and this is the way we did it, and was so much more efficient. Thanks I will have to try this out!

Sorry, for #3 the ink comes rushing out of the nozzle with the tube, not the exit port of the sub tank. We just had it installed, and I am not sure all the air got out. Also I like to purge the white bi-weekly to keep air out, especially with the temp and humidity differences from day to day.

Hoping someone can help as this is driving me crazy. I have a regular model 2513 and air purging isn't nearly this head banging against a wall as it is for the EX. Below are some problems I am experiencing and I am hoping someone has some advice or tips and tricks to make this not a nightmare...

Could be the rollers, check to make sure it is clean. Also check the cutting strip, if there are deep grooves it could contribute to this as well.

I pool over and around it, so it gives some lubrication for the blade that it is not catching on the acrylic and helps glide the blade over the surface until you feel the edge of the ink. It also helps keep the chipping in one place, although it is very messy. But I use UV inks, so if it is eco...

Was it first surface printed? If so, could you match a vinyl and just put a vinyl e over it? Otherwise, I pool iso alcohol (reduces scratches in my experience) on and scrap with metal razor. pretty much what Gino said, correct angle, steady hands, and a bit of guts. Sometimes I can break the ink...

You are the real mvp man. Totally spaced on starting it in service mode, because I was locked out of everything else in normal startup.

I am hoping that someone can help me out. I am running a JFX200-2513 and had to replace a sub tank. I did so successfully, but when I went to fill the sub tank back up it is asking to put a new bottle of Magenta ink in. I have about 50% ink left in the bottle, with a new bottle about 2 days...

I agree with Smoke, another thought is cap tops. What is the condition and when was the last time they were changed?

It's a 10 year old machine that we got used from a company that used it as a demo machine, so its got some miles on it. It's a JFX200-2513 with LH-100 ink, so I am just paranoid about it. We also only have maybe 5 days total a year where nothing is getting run on it, so just making sure it is...

I found the solution to this, in case any one stumbles on this in the future. On my old machine I was running Rasterlink 6 with older ICC profiles. The profiles had different defaults to them, and I was able to get the white to print with a gradient by increasing the pass count. I guess with 2...