Anti-graffiti, laminate vs liquid coating

[gnubler]

I need some guidance on anti-graffiti methods. Working on a government bid specifically asking for anti-graffiti. Laminate or liquid covering applied? The signs will be digitally printed and mounted to .080 aluminum. Outsourcing the prints to S365 on 3M IJ-35C, then doing the coating in-house. I don't have a laminator so would be applying the film or coating by hand. I've been unable to find a vendor to do the printing/laminating in one go and ship the prints to me.

I'm down to getting either a roll of Vandal Guard film from Grimco or using a liquid coating and apply with a roller. Does anyone use Marabu ClearShield Anti-Graffiti Liquid Coating on digital prints? Both options are pretty expensive.

Advice appreciated!

 

[Boudica]

no experience with liquid lam. We use vandal guard all the time. It's super thin, I would recommend using a laminator with it - unless you are doing small (like 12x18" - ish) signs.

 

[TomK]

S365 will already lam your order I think, but not with anti-graffiti.

 

[gnubler]

I checked out both S365 and Firesprint and they don't specifically offer anti-graffiti lams.

The prints will be 30"x20", so hand applying the Vandal Guard might be an absolute nightmare...which is why I'm looking into a liquid application.

 

[bigben]

vandal guard is garbage. I could'nt 100% erase ink from a dry erase marker that have been left over 36 hours. Even with acetone I could still saw some traces.

 

[gnubler]

But their promo video makes removal look easy, like magic.

 

[Boudica]

I can erase sharpie, with a micro fiber cloth and a little Isopropyl alcohol.
If that doesn't work, I'll get out a magic eraser. Those work on anything. I wouldn't recommend that for a dry erase board. Just graffiti.

 

[gnubler]

I saw some thicker anti-graffiti lams at Grimco & Fellers (easier to apply by hand?) but they're outrageously expensive. Vandal Guard says it works on calendared and cast. Any concerns about the laminate shrinking after application? I saw a couple posts about that here.

 

[flyplainsdrifta]

Seal's stuff is top notch but probably the outrageously expensive one your talking about. Some sort of PCTFE coating on the lam that pretty much makes it an infinite dry erase board and super easily removable with just about anything.

 

[gnubler]

I just found this related thread from a few weeks back, but it's inconclusive. https://signs101.com/threads/acceptable-clear-spray-coat-over-uv-inks.162413/

Another question: if I'm applying a liquid laminate like Clear Shield to a digital print, should the print be film laminated or not? There was mention in that other thread about a clear coat potentially 'rewetting' the ink printed on vinyl. Would have to make sure the Clear Shield is compatible with the laminate film then.

 

[ikarasu]

The main thing with anti graffiti is it's chemical resistance properties. It can withstand using harsh solvents on it because of the material it's made out of... So trying to erase sharpies and stuff with alcohol is no different than trying to erase sharpies off the wall with alcohol.

If it's getting anti graffiti and a government job they likely want it to last... I wouldn't use ij35. Go with ij40 at the very least, otherwise you may have a ton of failures and governments usually enforce the warranty.... Last thing you want is to redo everything for them.

I'd countact fires print directly, maybe they don't have it on their site... But I'm sure they can offer it. That or outsource it somewhere else...

Liquid laminates aren't meant to be brushed on... They're meant to be applied with a liquid laminator. So you're setting yourself up for failure even if you find an anti graffiti liquid laminate.

anti graffiti is generally exoensive when using proper materials.. We find its the one thing people don't bid cheap on. So don't be afraid to use a good vinyl / laminate and mark it up accordingly.


We just did about 8 rolls for a government job. Most of.the lower end anti graffitis are rated for 2 years outdoors only... We ended up paying triple and using inters pro anti graffiti. It worked great and was cheaper than 3m / orajet equivalent specs.

 

[Bly]

We use a lot of Ritrama anti graff lam.
Works well but is also really thin.
Like most anti graf lams it's polyester so will not shrink.

 

[gnubler]

Thanks for the tips. I did contact Firesprint directly, they don't offer an anti-graffiti film and I haven't found another trade printer that does. Came across a retail shop online that offers anti-graffiti with a 75% markup, you weren't kidding about it getting expensive.

According to the Clear Shield datasheet, it can be applied by hand using a foam roller or as a spray. I'm a one-person shop and don't have a laminator, which is why I'm trying to outsource this part of the order (only a few of the signs are requesting anti-graffiti).

 

[Notarealsignguy]

vandal guard is garbage. I could'nt 100% erase ink from a dry erase marker that have been left over 36 hours. Even with acetone I could still saw some traces.

Is there something better to use? I use a lot of vandalguard and haven't had any problems or complaints.

 

[Val47]

I checked out both S365 and Firesprint and they don't specifically offer anti-graffiti lams.

The prints will be 30"x20", so hand applying the Vandal Guard might be an absolute nightmare...which is why I'm looking into a liquid application.

that size could be not-nightmarish. doable.
just be sure to give yourself trim.
tbc...

 

[Val47]

I had too many words to do that on my phone. I need a keyboard for this.

Ok, so gnubler If I understand your project correctly...
you have an order for signs, that you are outsourcing the printing for. You're going to mount that printed vinyl to sign blanks. ... so far do I understand correctly? And you need to have said signs laminated with something "anti graffiti" .

Q For specific role in the dry-erase-antigrafiti-need... is this because they want to write/erase/re-write on these signs? Or, is it because they will be vulnerable to graffiti that will need to be cleaned off?

part 2. mounting. I have done that size by hand. I if I need to apply the vandal guard to vinyl print too small to require the waste of spooling up the laminator - I will cut a chunk off and do it by "hand". I have two laminators, so I'm going to draw on doing what I think your doing.

Advice:
Make sure you have enough of a piece of the lam, to have trim around the sign blank. like at least 1/2 inch. If your laminating something 30x20... and if you have a 54 inch roll of lam, cut the pieces to 54 x 22:
Use your work surface, and basically laminate the sign to it.
Start with a long hinge. Basically start on your table, so you have gotten past the initial set. I know your a one man show, but it would be really helpful if you had a buddy to hold the other end of the lam, while you squeegee and pull out the liner.
then trim, and it should look fabulous.

I personally would print, lam, cut and mount - but that is not what your plan is.

you should look into a laminator


and, good luck with this project

 

[GAC05]

Is there something better to use? I use a lot of vandalguard and haven't had any problems or complaints.

Glock makes an excellent anti-graffiti product but it does require a trained applicator.

 

[Val47]

Glock makes an excellent anti-graffiti product but it does require a trained applicator.

so, all you trained applicators... raise your hand! I'll bet FL is crawling with them

 

[gnubler]

Glock makes an excellent anti-graffiti product but it does require a trained applicator.

Indeed. Sitting on the top shelf in my office in case those sidewalk chalk hooligans start terrorizing the neighborhood.

 

[gnubler]

Val/Boudica, thank you for the info. I'm a newbie, trying to roll with the punches and do what I can reasonably do in house to grow the business. Laminator is high on the list of needed gear for sure. New shop, and limited by space and funds until things (hopefully) take off.