ATV wraps

[signkrazy]

Hey everybody! What is a good vinyl to wrap ATV's with low energy plastics? I'm sure it has been posted before but when I did a search on here, I could not find what I was looking for. I've used Convex before but I don't think its for wrapping. I mainly use it for decals on the ATV's. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Skeeter

 

[Flame]

You just don't do it. Unless it's just for show, nothing will stay looking good. Take it from a guy who has made over 10,000 graphic kits...just don't try to do a full ATV wrap.

 

[signkrazy]

I've seen a lot of them done and they seem to last pretty good. I know there are a lot of them that are made with cheap vinyl and they don't last long. I was just wondering if there was anything new that's come out that I don't know about.

 

[SlightlyChilled]

You could ask your vinyl rep.

 

[formanek]

Wrap it then clear over it with automotive based clear. The clear needs to have flex additive to allow for the movement and hits the plastic will take. Done it numerous times. Off course you need to charge accordingly. I do the same thing on goalie helmets. Piece of cake if you have the skill with auto clear.

 

[signkrazy]

formanek, what are you wrapping it with is my question? Thanks for the help!

 

[formanek]

formanek, what are you wrapping it with is my question? Thanks for the help!

MPI 1005 ez and DOL 1360. Clear is a must to protect whatever you put on them.

 

[signkrazy]

Thanks formanek!

 

[ProColorGraphics]

Wrap it then clear over it with automotive based clear. The clear needs to have flex additive to allow for the movement and hits the plastic will take. Done it numerous times. Off course you need to charge accordingly. I do the same thing on goalie helmets. Piece of cake if you have the skill with auto clear.

I don't expect a full on training session here, but what is your basic steps to wrap a goalie helmet? I played around with one not too long ago and it was a pain int he butt!

 

[formanek]

The helmet is done in 3 pieces. I start at the front (mask area) and work my way from there toward the back. The MPI EZ will allow a lot of stretch and still hold tack. I ONLY use a finger glove to rub the material into the helmet. Any vent holes I bridge over and cut and recess later with heat. Once the front and sides are adhered I am left with a wedge shape area on the top. That is done next in the same manner. From front to back. The seam where the sides and top meet are covered with separate pieces. In this mask they are covered with the light sabers on each side. The 3rd piece is the back of the helmet that is very straight forward.
Once I post heat I apply 2 coats of an automotive clear to seal the edges as well as give the skin durability from pucks. It just takes time, heat and patience. Of course using the correct material is also a HUGE factor. The Avery kit has worked best for me.

 

[JAMEY]

The helmet is done in 3 pieces. I start at the front (mask area) and work my way from there toward the back. The MPI EZ will allow a lot of stretch and still hold tack. I ONLY use a finger glove to rub the material into the helmet. Any vent holes I bridge over and cut and recess later with heat. Once the front and sides are adhered I am left with a wedge shape area on the top. That is done next in the same manner. From front to back. The seam where the sides and top meet are covered with separate pieces. In this mask they are covered with the light sabers on each side. The 3rd piece is the back of the helmet that is very straight forward.
Once I post heat I apply 2 coats of an automotive clear to seal the edges as well as give the skin durability from pucks. It just takes time, heat and patience. Of course using the correct material is also a HUGE factor. The Avery kit has worked best for me.

Thanks for that info!

 

[itljcloud]

It's not fun, but completely doable.

Did a few of these.

The plastics are molded with a silicone type mold release so wrapping one with a new finish is problematic at the least.

when I do one I

1.) Wipe it with Acetone
2.) Wet- Sand the crap out of it with 320 grit
3.) Wipe it again with acetone
4.) Burn the crap out of the surfaces with a torch without deforming anything. (it helps to burn off any silicone residue)
5.) See comments 1 and 3 again
6.) Primer 94 the crap out of it, just short of painting it with Primer 94
7.) Wrap away!