Can backing paper separate more easily if job has sat for a time after plotting?

[lewdlesion]

I'm having trouble finding the sweet spot for plotting pressure for my boss. He has me increase the pressure to improve the speed an ease of weeding vinyl, but then when he goes to do the installs on site, he has trouble with the backing paper separating and coming up with the vinyl. So he asks me to turn down the pressure so we're not cutting into the backing paper so much, but then complains about how much more difficult it is to weed.

One variable that may or may not make a difference, is that some of jobs are plotted, weeded and applied with application tape - but will then sit for a few weeks before the installation date. Having a UV printer in our shop, we also have ample humidity at all times. Having the plotted vinyl sitting in our shop for some time before it gets installed, could this also increase the chance the backing paper is separating when being peeled at the install?

Graphtec FC 8000-130
Avery Dennison Supercast Film
Rtape application tape

Thanks in advance for any advice!
Craig D

 

[Boudica]

If it's already weeded and taped, I don't think time is a factor. I think it's just a matter of dialing in that sweet spot, so it's cutting well, but not into the liner.

 

[Dennis Schaub]

If you’re in a pinch, you can put it in the freezer.

 

[JBurton]

3m 7725 with the synthetic liner is a way around it. Otherwise we avoid masking until just prior to install day to avoid having masked graphics sitting in the humidity.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

3m 7725 with the synthetic liner is a way around it. Otherwise we avoid masking until just prior to install day to avoid having masked graphics sitting in the humidity.

I hate that stuff. It never seems to want to come off the backer

 

[Modern Ink Signs]

A few things….
What degree blade are you using? For calandered and cast vinyl you should be around a 45 degree blade.

Also make sure your blade is sharp.

The tip of the blade needs to be just barely out of the blade holder (if yours has a cover)

Then you need to adjust the speed, pressure and depth. It is a cross all of these factors. Having a good sharp blade is 1/2 the battle.

When you are cutting there should be a slight indent on the backer (paper or plastic).

 

[JBurton]

I hate that stuff. It never seems to want to come off the backer

Ya know, I'm not sure what other folks do, but everytime a national ships it out to me, it's like it's glued to the backer. Either they are cutting it too deep, putting ridges in the liner, causing premask to not fully adhere to the edges of the copy, or they use a laminator to mount the premask with too much pressure.
Everytime I cut it the mask works perfectly, unless it's a roll that is years old. I had a roll of burgundy that was the bank of the ozarks color, we hardly ever used it in the first place, but once they changed names and color schemes, the vinyl had no use. After about the 5th year I started using it for stencil work by plotting through the liner, since the vinyl was essentially one with the backer.
Anyway, on a graphtec and an oem blade, pressure at 18 is just right, 17 if the blade is spanking new.

 

[bdw99]

Make sure you're using the right angle as said above. If you're struggling that much to find the right pressure you may need to get a new blade and retry.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

Ya know, I'm not sure what other folks do, but everytime a national ships it out to me, it's like it's glued to the backer. Either they are cutting it too deep, putting ridges in the liner, causing premask to not fully adhere to the edges of the copy, or they use a laminator to mount the premask with too much pressure.

That has been my experience as well which soured me on the material altogether.