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Can someone explain this to me?
- Thread starter 3Dsigns
- Start date
Notarealsignguy
Arial - it's almost helvetica
It's like a pressure relief valve on water, you don't have to plumb it in and out of the blow off. I don't know how it works exactly but it's supposed to absorb or "blow off" current spikes hence the wiring diagram.
3Dsigns
New Member
It would have to be some property of electronics that I'm not aware of. Way over my head. I watched their YOuTube video and the guy wires it the same.
Texas_Signmaker
Very Active Signmaker
The surge protector shunts power coming in on "line" to ground when it gets over voltage. There are also resistors. Why worry about it though? Don't you get paid to replace power supplies when it goes bad?
JBurton
Signtologist
Seriously, to save wire. They aren't truly shown as wired in parallel, they are run off a line/tap connection. In this instance, you could pseudo daisy chain power, and it would be the same. Here I'd run a 12 ga wire(line) the length of the components and connect with scotchloks (tap) off that run.
To be in parallel, they'd all connect at one point, in a giant wire nut.
To be in parallel, they'd all connect at one point, in a giant wire nut.
JBurton
Signtologist
And I'm an idiot, this isn't going to save the power supply, this will save the modules with capacitors that will keep the modules going at 12v when there is a dip, or shut them off when it runs out of juice and same when it gets a spike. Surely there is a pair of connections for each though, as a surge will still hit the other components before this has a chance to shut them down without being in line, and grimco is too lazy to draw it correctly for a bit of filler info art.
I thought this was asking about the modules/sticks wiring, not the surge protector.
I thought this was asking about the modules/sticks wiring, not the surge protector.
Notarealsignguy
Arial - it's almost helvetica
Scotchloks? You are from Arkansas I suppose.
JBurton
Signtologist
What's wrong with scotchloks? Beats pulling wire plus slack, snipping, stripping & wirenutting 3 wires together, 8 times. Just pull a run, pull wires to the run, and clamp 8 connectors.
Notarealsignguy
Arial - it's almost helvetica
They're garbage in the auto/truck world. Guess not in signs?
JBurton
Signtologist
The comparison between signs and truck wiring is pretty apples to oranges. Signs don't get that hot, don't have moving parts, nor vibrate down the road. They're really great for just this sort of thing, more for channel letters than a retro, where you have numerous connections on a run vs 2-4 led sticks on a power supply. Now, they can be a pita to trace a short if you don't crimp them all the way, but the high dollar red ones have a lid that won't close without a fully engaged connection.
In the end, nothing beats a wire nut for cost and effectiveness, they can just be a bit slower when numerous connections are made.
Texas_Signmaker
Very Active Signmaker
I came across some wago connectors the other day in a smoothie king menu board. Makes working with hot leads safer... not having to unravel a twisted connection.
JBurton
Signtologist
Heck yes, those are a staple in my bag, just for troubleshooting hot wire. Also it's nice to clamp a probe to ground and just worry with chasing wires with the other. But man, those levers have a crazy strong snap out of the box, enough to dent a thumbnail.
if the voltage between the 2 legs of the device exceeds the protrct threshold, it shorts, dropping the voltage to within the safe range
this is normally done with mov's (metal oxide varistor) or simply a zener diode. anything above the stated voltage makes the device momentarily short (normally destroying the protect but sparing your equipment
if you just exceed the max voltage by just a little, the device continues to protect, however, it often self destructs, so protection can be a one time event & the device needs to be replaced
this is normally done with mov's (metal oxide varistor) or simply a zener diode. anything above the stated voltage makes the device momentarily short (normally destroying the protect but sparing your equipment
if you just exceed the max voltage by just a little, the device continues to protect, however, it often self destructs, so protection can be a one time event & the device needs to be replaced
they do like to corrode, plus they have a REALLY SMALL contact area
kind of like the Herman Miller cubicles electrical connections (run heavy 12 guage wire then have the equivalent of two razor blades crossed over and 1 tiny point getting white hot)
JBurton
Signtologist
This is true. Though if nothing corrodes, how am I supposed to keep the service work going?
At least I stopped using the blue ones with a single blade, the red ones have a pair that tends to stay upright as it's pressed downward into the wire.
I am not entirely sure what gremlin lives in the SPD box, but with all 3 wires, the protector gremlin can dump voltage to neutral or even ground, if need be, to cover a spike in voltage --- think like the voltage regulator on al older car, it was attached to the firewall so it could dump extra voltage to the chassis and keep line voltage steady.