channels lifting Ford Transit

[TXFB.INS]

When it rains it pours........


Installer just told me there is an issue with the current Ford Transit Wrap.

the material is Oracal 3751 with 290 lamination, out gassed over the weekend before lamination.
The surface was prepped with Rapid Prep, then with alcohol / water mixture final final wipe down with Rapid Tac,

this was installed yesterday afternoon and laid fine.
spanned the area and then heated the material from the inlay (Recessed portion) out to the raised area.

any ideas to the reason for this? or more to point how to resolve and ensure no more lifting?

 

[klingsdesigns]

Did you post heat it hot enough. Usually over stretching causes this but by your pixels there doesnt look stretched.

 

[TXFB.INS]

they claimed they used the laser temp gun and posted heated to the right temp but I'm thinking you may be correct

 

[truckgraphics]

Heat from the Crease Out

3M suggests heating from the crease on out.

Arlon suggests heating away from the crease then pushing into the crease. This way, the crease isn't stretched. Instead, the flat area, where there is more surface area, gets stretched and there is more surface area to handle the tension.

Both 3M and Arlon have Youtube videos on the subject. Don't trust my explanation. Watch the videos, then adjust your technique if you are so inclined.

In my opinion, the 3M method is outdated. Heating the crease heats the crease, but doesn't make the vinyl sticky. We've had more success with the Arlon technique.

 

[TXFB.INS]

think the issue was found, the temp gun kept reading 350f when the trigger was pulled.
seems that is the temp that indicates the battery is dead.

their comment was "wow it takes longer to get to 200f then I thought, it was really hot when I put my hand in front of it"........ got to love new hires

lesson learned today, always carry a spare battery and verify the equipment is working prior to using it....

 

[Kentucky Wraps]

3M suggests heating from the crease on out.

Arlon suggests heating away from the crease then pushing into the crease. This way, the crease isn't stretched. Instead, the flat area, where there is more surface area, gets stretched and there is more surface area to handle the tension.

Both 3M and Arlon have Youtube videos on the subject. Don't trust my explanation. Watch the videos, then adjust your technique if you are so inclined.

In my opinion, the 3M method is outdated. Heating the crease heats the crease, but doesn't make the vinyl sticky. We've had more success with the Arlon technique.

+1
"leaching" from 5 or 6 inches away from the recess prevents any over stretching in the recess.

 

[blufftonsignguy]

I had the same problem using 3m wrap vinyl. I do not remember which one I used, but it did that same thing on me twice. I was doing a partial wrap on a Nissan van with deep crevasses. After talking to a 3m rep and my sales rep, it was determined I used the wrong material that really doesn't give as much for the deep crevasses. I now have to purchase a different 3m wrap vinyl which they said should work fine. The crevasses I am working with are 1/2"-3"4 deep.

When it rains it pours........


Installer just told me there is an issue with the current Ford Transit Wrap.


the material is Oracal 3751 with 290 lamination, out gassed over the weekend before lamination.
The surface was prepped with Rapid Prep, then with alcohol / water mixture final final wipe down with Rapid Tac,

this was installed yesterday afternoon and laid fine.
spanned the area and then heated the material from the inlay (Recessed portion) out to the raised area.

any ideas to the reason for this? or more to point how to resolve and ensure no more lifting?