CJV150 Print Head Replacement

[Mathew Atkin]

Hi, Recently we picked up a Mimaki CJV150 cheap as it had been sat unused for a few years. We are hoping to get it up and running without the need of a tech. I have a few questions which I would appreciate help on.

The machine had been left on however the ink had expired and the cap top was knackered so Its more than likely going to need a new head. Looking in the service manual it says about checking the slant adjust. Is this necessary when a new head is fitted or is it set up during install? if we do not adjust any of the adjustment screws would it not fit back to its original position?

How likely do you think it would be for the original head to be recovered. The machine has barley been used however has sat for a few years with no maintenance other than the auto maintenance when it was functioning. We are fitting a new cap top, dampers, pump, wiper and are going to flush the lines. In regards to the head we was going to potentially see if we could recover it as we don't really have much to loose. does anyone have any advice regarding recovering it?

Thank You

 

[Pablo583]

Hi, Recently we picked up a Mimaki CJV150 cheap as it had been sat unused for a few years. We are hoping to get it up and running without the need of a tech. I have a few questions which I would appreciate help on.

The machine had been left on however the ink had expired and the cap top was knackered so Its more than likely going to need a new head. Looking in the service manual it says about checking the slant adjust. Is this necessary when a new head is fitted or is it set up during install? if we do not adjust any of the adjustment screws would it not fit back to its original position?

How likely do you think it would be for the original head to be recovered. The machine has barley been used however has sat for a few years with no maintenance other than the auto maintenance when it was functioning. We are fitting a new cap top, dampers, pump, wiper and are going to flush the lines. In regards to the head we was going to potentially see if we could recover it as we don't really have much to loose. does anyone have any advice regarding recovering it?

Thank You

The adjustment screws should no not be messed with. This is a 150 so a single head model. The slant and stagger adjustments will not apply to a 150 setup.The head will drop into place with 2 2mm screws. You would really need to preform the waveforms adjustments after installing the head though to get the print as tight and In register as possible. Good luck. As far as recovering the head do a soak overnight or over a weekend. Do a nozzle wash and set it at 99 min. And hard power it down overnight or over a weekend. What ink set does it have SS21 would be ideal for the soak.

 

[Mathew Atkin]

The adjustment screws should no not be messed with. This is a 150 so a single head model. The slant and stagger adjustments will not apply to a 150 setup.The head will drop into place with 2 2mm screws. You would really need to preform the waveforms adjustments after installing the head though to get the print as tight and In register as possible. Good luck. As far as recovering the head do a soak overnight or over a weekend. Do a nozzle wash and set it at 99 min. And hard power it down overnight or over a weekend. What ink set does it have SS21 would be ideal for the soak.

Hi this is brilliant. I did notice while looking at the head that the adjustment screws looked separate to what actual fixes the head in so that makes sense. When you day wave form adjustments are you referring to the Drop Position? We purchased the machine in hope to fix it and get experience in maintenance and repairs at the same time as our other cjv is out of warranty now so it would be nice to have a basic understanding of simple repairs we could perform ourselves. It is running ss21 so before replacing the head I will soak the head and perform a few cleans to see how many nozzles I can recover. I will do this after replacing the dampers, pump and captop which are being delivered today. I will let you know how I get on. Thank You

 

[Solventinkjet]

You do want to check the head slant even with a single head machine. The head needs to be parallel to the path of travel. Most of the time it's good between heads but you do want to check it because it will throw your other alignments off if it's out of wack. Other than that, run the drop position in service mode to 0 out user mode and then run the user mode drop position. That way it's always as close to 0 as possible which is good when you are switching between different thicknesses of materials. If one of your drop position alignments are say +40 and you throw some banner material in and try to run the drop position, it could be a value over 40 which isn't available. By doing the service mode adjustment, it brings it as close to 0 as possible and then when you throw in banner it might only need to be adjusted a few ticks.

Unfortunately I cannot give you a tech manual as a dealer but if you go looking here on Signs101 I'm sure someone already has it to give.

 

[Mathew Atkin]

You do want to check the head slant even with a single head machine. The head needs to be parallel to the path of travel. Most of the time it's good between heads but you do want to check it because it will throw your other alignments off if it's out of wack. Other than that, run the drop position in service mode to 0 out user mode and then run the user mode drop position. That way it's always as close to 0 as possible which is good when you are switching between different thicknesses of materials. If one of your drop position alignments are say +40 and you throw some banner material in and try to run the drop position, it could be a value over 40 which isn't available. By doing the service mode adjustment, it brings it as close to 0 as possible and then when you throw in banner it might only need to be adjusted a few ticks.

Unfortunately I cannot give you a tech manual as a dealer but if you go looking here on Signs101 I'm sure someone already has it to give.

Thank you so much for this! I fitted all the new parts today with no issues gave the whole machine a good clean to get rid of any dried ink and now the machine is sitting with the head in soak. Hopefully the new fresh ink arrives tomorrow and I will let you know how I get on. Thanks for your help.

 

[Mathew Atkin]

Fitted the parts and soaked the head. Yellow and black are half way there, cyan has a few nozzles working and magenta is still completely blocked. Is there any tips on unblocking the dx7 head fitted to the cjv150 or is it just a case of being patient and leave it soaking? All this assuming the head is in good condition apart from being clogged.

 

[Solventinkjet]

More soaks and cleanings can help. Last resort is hooking a syringe with cleaning solution up to where the damper connects to the head and pushing the solution through to flush the head. It's last resort because if you push too hard, it can break.

 

[Mathew Atkin]

More soaks and cleanings can help. Last resort is hooking a syringe with cleaning solution up to where the damper connects to the head and pushing the solution through to flush the head. It's last resort because if you push too hard, it can break.

We gave this a try tonight we was extremely gently. We hardly applied any pressure and The smallest of dribbles seem to drop from the far back of the head kind of looked like it was coming from the side. Is that normal?

 

[Solventinkjet]

Solution should only come out of the nozzles of the channel you're flushing. If it comes out of anywhere other than the nozzles, something broke inside.

 

[Kudu Signs]

did you have any success with this repair?

 

[Mathew Atkin]

Hi,

We are awaiting a new head from Germany. As soon as it arrives I will update you.

 

[Dasdesignguy]

You really should pull the ink via the cap through the waste ink tube with a syringe rather than push it through the top or through the dampers. I've been told when you push it through the top you have a better chance of pushing any debris though the filters in the head, clogging more nozzles, than if you gently pull it through the bottom.

 

[Solventinkjet]

You really should pull the ink via the cap through the waste ink tube with a syringe rather than push it through the top or through the dampers. I've been told when you push it through the top you have a better chance of pushing any debris though the filters in the head, clogging more nozzles, than if you gently pull it through the bottom.

We only use it as a last resort. Might as well try if you're going to buy a new one!

 

[Mathew Atkin]

Just to give everyone an update. The machine is now up and running. There is a few small adjustments that still need to be carried out but I can confirm that the machine which has been sat for a few years with a cap top which was totally passed it has been fixed.

So for anyone who is interested below is the steps we took.

Flushed the Ink Lines including waste pipes and Replaced the Pump, Cap Top, Dampers. I knew inside when I picked the machine up the head was more than likely un recoverable however we did have a little mess about flushing it to find that the seal had failed causing ink to become contaminated. Ordered a new head from Digiprint it was actually a Roland dx7 head they was selling a lot cheaper but it did require the memory board swapping and did not come with the head cables which needed to be purchased separately. Once arrived installed it and entered the Head ID and did 2 hard ink fills and away we was with a clean nozzle check.

There is just a few things that need adjusting which hopefully you guys might be able to help with. The service manual states about 3mm from the top dead position on the rail however ours is a lot more. If we adjust it to what it states in the manual the latch does not lock the head. I figured it could be to do with the station height however after checking this its positioned 5mm as specified. Any ideas what this could be?

Also the wiper is defiantly too high and I cannot find the 2nd screw towards the back of the machine. Does anyone have any guidance on this?

Finally as its a 2014 machine I thought it would be good to update the firmware however it says on the software that the machine is running special firmware. What does this mean?

Thanks Again!

 

[JCTorres]

Just to give everyone an update. The machine is now up and running. There is a few small adjustments that still need to be carried out but I can confirm that the machine which has been sat for a few years with a cap top which was totally passed it has been fixed.

So for anyone who is interested below is the steps we took.

Flushed the Ink Lines including waste pipes and Replaced the Pump, Cap Top, Dampers. I knew inside when I picked the machine up the head was more than likely un recoverable however we did have a little mess about flushing it to find that the seal had failed causing ink to become contaminated. Ordered a new head from Digiprint it was actually a Roland dx7 head they was selling a lot cheaper but it did require the memory board swapping and did not come with the head cables which needed to be purchased separately. Once arrived installed it and entered the Head ID and did 2 hard ink fills and away we was with a clean nozzle check.

There is just a few things that need adjusting which hopefully you guys might be able to help with. The service manual states about 3mm from the top dead position on the rail however ours is a lot more. If we adjust it to what it states in the manual the latch does not lock the head. I figured it could be to do with the station height however after checking this its positioned 5mm as specified. Any ideas what this could be?

Also the wiper is defiantly too high and I cannot find the 2nd screw towards the back of the machine. Does anyone have any guidance on this?

Finally as its a 2014 machine I thought it would be good to update the firmware however it says on the software that the machine is running special firmware. What does this mean?

Thanks Again!

Hi Matthew I am in the process of buying a print head for my Mimaki CJV150-130 . Can you send me a link to where you bought your printhead without memory board and what cables Do I need to buy separately?
Thanks in Advance.

 

[Mathew Atkin]

Hi Matthew I am in the process of buying a print head for my Mimaki CJV150-130 . Can you send me a link to where you bought your printhead without memory board and what cables Do I need to buy separately?
Thanks in Advance.

Hi, below is the link to the head I purchased.

CJV300 5540 Head Assy without Memory Board - M015372

This printhead without memory board is suitable for Mimaki CJV 300/150 JV 300/150 series printers.

www.digiprint-supplies.com

We used the memory board from the original head. If you need a memory board digiprint supply both options. The link above is for without the memory board. It fitted straight in all I did was input the head ID I’m the service mode. Did an ink fill and it’s been perfect ever since.

 

[Ctp Services Vijay]

Hello Im new to this forum, can anyone tell me whats going on with my Mimaki CJV 150-130, All test prints before was showing perfect Black, Magenta and yellow with missing nozzles on both sides of the cyan, I replaced the two dampers with the cyan lines and after many hard cleans as well as ink fills this is what's happening, can anyone help

 

[joranbes]

first of all I recommend that you test the pump. I always use a 60ml syringe. and I connect it to the waste pipe and do a hard cleaning when the machine is ready, then the syringe must be filled with 23 ml. if not then you should look for an air leak.

 

[joranbes]

if there is 2 ml liquid in it, the cap may be leaking. or false air pulls past the cap.