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CJV30-130 Banding Issues

thesignpad

New Member
This is a brand new printer (had it delivered less than 3 weeks ago). The tech came over, setup and did some basic training on it with me. However it was just before Xmas holidays so the tech was looking to get the hell out of dodge and home for the holidays, so didnt' really give me great information.

Anyway, I've been experimenting with my own prints and seem to have a hell of time eliminating banding. I've been reading through all the posts on the forums and trying suggestions etc.

I've tried different profiles (started off with the dedicated 720x720 profile for the specific media I am using) however it was printing banding. Some users suggested trying a 520x1080VD profile (so I did with 8 pass) and I still get banding.

I started off completely dialling in my media compensation, now here is where I think things are weird. I am running a 54" roll of calendered matte media. I am running the 2 outside rollers on high pressure and all the inside rollers off. I've tried running them all at medium pressure, and didn't seem to help.

Should also note I am running ES3 inks.

I am running the heat at 38 / 38 / 50. I've tried as high as 42 / 42 / 50 and didnt' seem to make a lot of difference.

When I do my media compensation print, how picky should I be? I am noticing that when I do it. The edge CLOSEST to "home" is BANG on (ie no dark overlap or white gap) however by the time it gets to the other side, I have a slight very very thin white gap. Is this normal? It's a brand new printer so I didnt' think there would be anything wrong it it.

My "test print" is perfect. IE no nozzle deflection or anything like that.


Thoughts? I come from a Roland background (VS640) and have never had this much trouble dialing in the calibration / banding issues.

I would almost describe this as a "lighter pass" followed by a "darker pass". IE it sort of ends up looking like a tiger stripes (over exaggerated of course)., But you get the idea.
 
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1robbie

New Member
When you get yours figured out, let me know. My brand new JV33-160 is doing the same thing. So right now, out of business till I can get it working. NO One wants to help from where I bought it. They think I am crazy I guess.
 

thesignpad

New Member
Well it's been escalated to some of the brightest minds back at the place I bought it from, so hopefully I hear something back. Anyone else run into something like this?
 

Mitro

New Member
I had the same problem with my new JV-33, the platen was not level. Had the tech in a few times to adjust but it never worked. The crate the printer came in was damaged. It looked like the shipping company placed a crate on top of my printer. Fortunately the magenta nozzles weren't working properly as well so Mimaki replaced the printer.
 

1robbie

New Member
Mitro, what software do you use? We use Flexi 10 and are having a terrible time. I checked the platen just to make sure and it is fine. Rasterlink prints fine with this machine, but I can't get anything out of Flexi to print worth a dang. Tried using can profiles and new ones and same thing. Any suggestions, I think I have done it all other than close the shop.
 

Beavis

New Member
I run a cjv30-100 and i don't seem to have banding issues but anything i print under 8 passes looks horrible. I turned it up to 16 pass with 720 x 1440 gpvc profile running es3 ink. Also I mostly printing on 3m 7725-10 @ 82 95 105F. My biggest issue is cutting. anything over 3ft seems to be progressively off. Sometimes it cuts off a 1/4 inch in the middle of a job and at the start and end of the job its right on. I'm running rasterlink pro 5 SG and cutting with finecut 8 from adobe.
 

VDigital

New Member
Streaking

It sounds like I am having a very similar issue on our CJV30.
We have had it looked at, but no answers yet.

Anyone else with this issue have any luck?
 

SightLine

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The DX5 print head is optimised for 540x resolutions. 720x resolutions will never work quite as well. Try 540x1080..... Also have you run the machines Dot Position Correction lately? Need to do that every few weeks or if you change from printing on a very thick material to something very thin. Of course feed compensation being off will also create banding.
 

MagentaSigns

New Member
you could try running in in uni-direction only and not bi-direction when printing this will slow your printing down but might get you going at least.
Download the latest manual from mimaki site and go through the callibration tests, i think Page 3-10 of manual 1.4 where it prints of a drop test pattern and you have to add in the correction postion into the machine. then this might help with the media compensation print
 
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