Clean air compressor for new CNC

[WESTERNSIGNCO.]

Looking for recommendation for new air compressor for our new Multicam 1R we have coming. We were told that it is very important to use a compressor with clean dry air (aka some type of filtration) so you don't ruin the spindle. Can anyone recommend a decent one or something they have experience with? This is our first cnc and the last thing I want to do is have a major problem due to a insufficient compressor. Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

This is the Air Dryer we bought to mate with our California Air Tools 60gal compressor.



2 years in and it works perfect for our Celero 7

 

[WESTERNSIGNCO.]

This is the Air Dryer we bought to mate with our California Air Tools 60gal compressor.



2 years in and it works perfect for our Celero 7

Whats cost of this unit? Also does it have any issues maintaining at least 100psi at any given time?

 

[Christian @ 2CT Media]

We paid $980, they are around $1500 now.

The Compressor is around $1800.

We have no issues maintaining 120psi on ours, it just cycles every 15 minutes or so.

 

[CanuckSigns]

Check with multicam about what they recommend, you can install something like what was posted, or you can get a $200 inline air dryer, it all depends how sensitive the machine is to moisture.

 

[Josh Martinez]

Looking for recommendation for new air compressor for our new Multicam 1R we have coming. We were told that it is very important to use a compressor with clean dry air (aka some type of filtration) so you don't ruin the spindle. Can anyone recommend a decent one or something they have experience with? This is our first cnc and the last thing I want to do is have a major problem due to a insufficient compressor. Any help is greatly appreciated

Do you have a tool changer or a knife system on your 1R?

 

[LarryB]

We have an air dryer from Harbor Freight. Think it was around $400 and have used it for 7 years. It works great but have had to replace one of the regulators which is around $90.

 

[johnnysigns]

We went through something similar last year when we upgraded our Gerber Sabre to an AXYZ CNC. I was lucky enough to have an unused 12cfm compressor on hand, but we did buy this dryer for the system: https://www.aircompressorsdirect.co..._update&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=product

 

[johnnysigns]

It was roughly $980 for the dryer and we spent another couple hundred getting fittings, hose connections, oil seperators and what not for it.

 

[Jetpack Stickers & Labels]

Don't bother with a desiccant filter unless it's after a condenser-style dryer. I built an aftercooler that mounts to the compressor between the pump and the tank. I used a transmission oil cooler (from Amazon, I think) and an automatic-drain water separator (relatively inexpensive), and this pulls pretty much all the moisture out before it goes in the tank. It takes the hot air right out of the pump (I measured it at over 400 degrees F) and cools it to room temperature instantly, which pulls out the moisture. You can see it collecting in the bowl of the water separator as the compressor is running. As soon as the compressor stops, the bowl empties the water out. I do have a desiccant filter just before the CNC (~$200 Devilbiss), but for probably $150 in parts, the aftercooler works perfectly and removes 99.9% of the moisture. This video is almost exactly what I built... Skip to 13:45 to see the general idea:

 

[johnnysigns]

I had a devilbliss dessicant filter for a while, but we didn't have anything before that to remove the bulk of the moisture. We ended up changing the dessicant out roughly twice a week which was honestly a pain in the butt. That looks like a nice setup Max.

 

[James Burke]

Aside from a refrigerated dryer, a good coalescing filter/extractor will suffice. I use LaMan. They're pricey, but they work well. I run everything from the 50 CFM model all the way up to the 250 CFM. They're awesome. I do sandblasting and the air has to be practically bone dry.

Extractor Dryer Air Filters | Compressed Air Equipment

The extractor/dryer is a two-stage, point-of-use compressed air filter that's perfect for removing water, oil, and other contaminants. Contact La-Man today.

www.laman.com

The demo video below will blow your mind. They purposely inject water into the air to demonstrate its capability. I bought an identical sales demo kit on eBay several years ago and the units really work like it shows.

JB

JB

 

[Notarealsignguy]

Aside from a refrigerated dryer, a good coalescing filter/extractor will suffice. I use LaMan. They're pricey, but they work well. I run everything from the 50 CFM model all the way up to the 250 CFM. They're awesome. I do sandblasting and the air has to be practically bone dry.

Extractor Dryer Air Filters | Compressed Air Equipment

The extractor/dryer is a two-stage, point-of-use compressed air filter that's perfect for removing water, oil, and other contaminants. Contact La-Man today.

www.laman.com

The demo video below will blow your mind. They purposely inject water into the air to demonstrate its capability. I bought an identical sales demo kit on eBay several years ago and the units really work like it shows.

JB

JB

View attachment 156545
View attachment 156546

You really need to condense the moisture and remove it first, these are more like a polishing filter. The moisture will pass right through those and condense from the pressure drop when it hits your pot.
Usually, you have a cooler to drop the temp, then a tank to drop pressure and catch/drain the water and then go on from there. It's just like refrigeration.
A trick to blasting is bury that hose which will act as your cooler, then a tank then connect to the pot.

 

[James Burke]

You really need to condense the moisture and remove it first, these are more like a polishing filter. The moisture will pass right through those and condense from the pressure drop when it hits your pot.
Usually, you have a cooler to drop the temp, then a tank to drop pressure and catch/drain the water and then go on from there. It's just like refrigeration.
A trick to blasting is bury that hose which will act as your cooler, then a tank then connect to the pot.

I run a 185 CFM diesel compressor and route the air through a 200 gallon receiver which drops the temp. considerably. You're right, the air needs to reach dew point to shed the moisture.

I strongly suspect that the OP's compressor will not be generating a significant amount of heated air whatsoever. The LaMan filter/extractor will work just fine.

The greatest help will be in the piping scheme. Piping needs to be on a downward slope (in the direction of air flow) of 1" per 10 feet, with generous use of drip legs and drop legs.

The link below gives some general guidelines.

JB

https://www.hitachi.us/supportingdocs/forbus/isd/white_papers/Air%20Piping%20Recommendations%20for%20Compressor%20Discharge%20and%20Plant%20Distributi....pdf