Color of print before heating process

[nevessa]

Hi, I am new to this forum, couldn't find the right place to introduce myself. I'm a landscape photographer, wanting to put my images on mugs and tiles. My question concerning mug press sublimation: Is the color of the print always different than the finished product? If so, does one have to change the color of the image in the software before the sublimation process? As you can tell, I'm new to sublimation also. My mug press was given to me and after 2 or 4 attempts, the color got a little better, but not perfect, and can't get the image to darken on edges, like maybe the pressure is not enough at the edges. Would appreciate a conversation with someone experienced with this method. Thank you so much!

 

[SlightlyChilled]

Color on the paper will be off. You will have a hard time if you are trying to get the image to the lip of the mug. You need to play with it. As for darkening the image you need to let it cook longer. What temp and time are you using.

 

[WildWestDesigns]

Is the color of the print always different than the finished product?

From my experience, yes.

If so, does one have to change the color of the image in the software before the sublimation process?

It's really going to depend on what you are sublimating it on. Fabrics tend to need a little change in the colors due to the "blending" that goes on when you use a fabric that isn't close to pure white.

Also, are you just using a small format sublimation printer with sawgrass inks? If so, they do make a color palette (ColorSure, I believe it's called) that tends to stay truer to what color ranges that those inks can handle.

My mug press was given to me and after 2 or 4 attempts, the color got a little better, but not perfect, and can't get the image to darken on edges, like maybe the pressure is not enough at the edges. Would appreciate a conversation with someone experienced with this method. Thank you so much!

I typically don't do all the way to the top. Most mugs have a rolled (curved) top and that makes it harder to get a good print, right up to the top of the edge.

 

[nevessa]

Color of print bewfore heating process

Thank you both so much for the replies!!
The image is a panorama, so it is not going to the top. It's the left and right edge that's not printing dark enough, like it's not getting enough pressure at the edge of the mug press itself.
First time heat was 400 (we didn't realize measurement was celcius) Boy was that a mistake, lots of smoke

Color was not right. Second time Heat 180, 150 seconds, color not right, and third time 200 160 seconds, we think was too hot, but still was not right color and seemed like pressure was not enough on left and right edges.

 

[nevessa]

sublimation color problem

Using an Epson workforce 30 with SubliUltra inks.

 

[WildWestDesigns]

The image is a panorama, so it is not going to the top. It's the left and right edge that's not printing dark enough, like it's not getting enough pressure at the edge of the mug press itself.

So you are talking about the edges next to the handle. You aren't going to be able to do that all the way either. Handle itself makes that difficult for consistent results.

First time heat was 400 (we didn't realize measurement was celcius) Boy was that a mistake, lots of smoke

Color was not right.

I would say so. That's what 740-750°F?

Second time Heat 180, 150 seconds, color not right, and third time 200 160 seconds, we think was too hot, but still was not right color and seemed like pressure was not enough on left and right edges.

You want 400°F and 6 minutes of time or 360 seconds.

What brand of mug press are you using? How old etc? It could be that the it isn't heating properly across the platen or at the correct temp. Do you have a pyrometer to check that?

 

[nevessa]

sublimation color

I tried your settings, and the color was still not good. I'm not trying to print all the way to the handle, just 9 inches long which leaves 3/4 inch from the handle. I don't know how old the mugs are. Do they have a shelf life? The make of the mug press is XMT, also don't know how old it is.

 

[Dakotagrafx]

couple of things - I use a Ricoh with sawgrass inks and with the powerdriver from Sawgrass colors are very close, you just chose which type of item you are sublimating and it adjust the colors automatically for you - as for the printing to the bottom and up to the handle - had at least 6 different presses - get rid of them and use a cactus wrap and do them in the oven. the problem you have with a press is the handle and bottom wick the heat away like a heat sink causing the fading in those areas - when you put them in the oven you heat the handle and bottom the same as the rest of the mug (place them upside down) and the image will go to the edges. - never tried on the handle but have done hundreds full to bottom and to handle edge. I use 10 wraps - 5 in the oven and 5 will be cooling, unwrap, wrap next set and then trade at the 15 min mark - can rotate thru a lot of mugs that way when you get a rhythm going

 

[WildWestDesigns]

couple of things - I use a Ricoh with sawgrass inks and with the powerdriver from Sawgrass colors are very close, you just chose which type of item you are sublimating and it adjust the colors automatically for you - as for the printing to the bottom and up to the handle

I forgot about this. Yes, this does work really well. I've got a couple of different profiles that I use along with their ColorSure Palette and that is what I have been using for my small format printing.

- had at least 6 different presses - get rid of them and use a cactus wrap and do them in the oven. the problem you have with a press is the handle and bottom wick the heat away like a heat sink causing the fading in those areas - when you put them in the oven you heat the handle and bottom the same as the rest of the mug (place them upside down) and the image will go to the edges. - never tried on the handle but have done hundreds full to bottom and to handle edge. I use 10 wraps - 5 in the oven and 5 will be cooling, unwrap, wrap next set and then trade at the 15 min mark - can rotate thru a lot of mugs that way when you get a rhythm going

I've never had a problem going to the bottom on a mug with my heat press.

You have to remember that both the heat press and the heat wrap, the bands will wear out and eventually need to be replaced. Again, age and quality of the equipment will play a factor in this.

Using an Epson workforce 30 with SubliUltra inks.

I missed this the first go around. Workforce 30 is the cheapest printer to get into this type of production. Longevity isn't going to be on your side for this. How often do your print? To keep that thing in good shape, you have to be printing constantly almost. Nozzles will clog and that will throw your prints off as well. Ricoh is a much better small format printer (with bigger paper options if you get the bypass tray option), but for a quick comparison. Buying each printer new (last time I looked, but this was before the new Ricoh 7700 printers), WorkForce 30 would set you back $70 bucks and the Ricoh would be around $700.

I'm not familiar with SubliUltra inks.

 

[nevessa]

Color off

Thanks, I think I agree that the printer is a piece of crap. was talked into getting it along with the ink, and I'm regretting it already.