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Need Help Coroplast issues - seeking tips and tricks

ikarasu

Active Member
That makes sense ill look up some videos! And i was wondering about flashback if cutting coro on top of a big sheet of aluminum. To me doing that seems like it would have a lot of flashback on the metal
I havent had to use it, so I cant say. i use a honeycomb... and I dont get any flashback on coro... just on acyrlics. I think if your cut settings are dead on there will be no / minimal flashback.

Theoretically you could use a non reflective material for it to avoid any flashbacks - Throw a sacraficial 4x8 coro underneath it.... Swap it out once it gets too damaged or gunked up. Or use alupanel - Eventually you'll burn through all the painted white, but you're making very thin hairline cutmarks... So odds of overlapping lines / flashback occuring should be pretty nil until you cut hundreds of sheets and most of the paint is removed from it.

Can you make a jig that goes overtop of your knives and then you just throw the coro on it? One thing I do for acyrlic is with the honeycomb I put golf tees in to lift the acyrlic up and it gets rid of flashback.... If you have the capability to do it on house, I'd manufacture some "Cross knives" That go in the opposite direction that you only use for coro - Throw them ontop of your current knife bed, should only take a few minutes...cut your coro, remove them, and just keep using those only for coro. Should keep the gunk from your plywood and other materials off your coro
 

ikarasu

Active Member
Totally stealing the golf tee idea! :notworthy:
It works great. Fits into the honeycomb perfectly... Keeps it level, and they're cheap for when you run the laser right through them:roflmao:

The acrylic being raised a quarter inch off of the metal prevents any flashback too, since it defocuses the laser beam. It's win-win, I use them all the time
 
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