custom spot colors using i1 in Versaworks

[briant1362]

I'm trying to reproduce a couple of colors on an existing sign. The existing sign looks to be some sort of direct printed aluminum but we'll be printing new versions on vinyl and wrapping the aluminum. I did the following to match the colors on the existing sign...created a custom color library in VW using Lab, defined a couple of new spot colors, calibrated and then measured using the i1. Then went into Illustrator, defined a couple of new spot colors (being sure that the names match those in VW), saved off as a PDF and dropped into VW. Made sure that convert spot colors on the VW job was checked and printed on a profiled media. The resulting prints weren't that close to what I sampled. Can anyone see if I did anything obviously wrong? This is the first time I've tried this...are my expectations for matching colors are too high? Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

[rfulford]

I find that matching existing graphics works best if you use device color and leave the rip out of the equation. I do not know what you have available so I will just outline my method which is close to yours. I would use the ProfileMaker Color Picker and load the output profile for your printer and media. Measure your target color and get the device CMYK color settings for your printer. The rest should be pretty much the same as what you are doing except CMYK instead of LAB. If that does not work, I would try again linearizations and ink limits only with ICC off. Convert to your output profile in illustrator and define your colors with the values read with your i1.

 

[4R Graphics]

What rfulford said.

use color picker select your output profile(the one your rip will use) and get sample of the color.

When you sample in color picker it will show you the LAB and the cmyk numbers.

When it comes to printing there are no real standards for CMYK but there are standards for RGB they are LAB or XYZ since you have the LAB numbers you can try those and try the CMYK numbers see which one prints best.

You may need to design in RGB inorder for the LAB colors to be trully correct.

Hope that helps you out.

Isnt color managment and color matching fun.

 

[briant1362]

Thanks rfulford/bearwen...I do have Color Picker and will try your suggestions.

 

[briant1362]

Using ColorPicker CMYK values and using those for the spot color values got me a lot closer...not perfect...but definitely an improvement. Thanks again.

 

[4R Graphics]

Well closer is better sometimes you just cant match it exactlly.

Did you try doing it in LAB and making the image a raster?

I have found that RGB will give you a bigger color gamut and also reproduce colors more closely (but not always).

Good luck

 

[briant1362]

I did not try the Lab values...rfulford suggested using the CMYK values so I went with those. Unfortunately, this was all for not...we had transparent background images on top of the colors we were matching. Spot colors + transparencies + VersaWorks = problems. We had to resort to printing a bunch of swatches and tweak from there. Got a pretty decent match and printed 20+ feet on 3m IJ180v3. Went to laminate...the color shift was unreal...even with optically clear lam. So now we're back to square one. This sorta leads to a follow up question...to profile laminated prints or unlaminated?

 

[SIROD]

I did not try the Lab values...rfulford suggested using the CMYK values so I went with those. Unfortunately, this was all for not...we had transparent background images on top of the colors we were matching. Spot colors + transparencies + VersaWorks = problems. We had to resort to printing a bunch of swatches and tweak from there. Got a pretty decent match and printed 20+ feet on 3m IJ180v3. Went to laminate...the color shift was unreal...even with optically clear lam. So now we're back to square one. This sorta leads to a follow up question...to profile laminated prints or unlaminated?

For most job unlaminated with a D50 light source, then try to get the more transparent laminated you can buy

 

[4R Graphics]

Try Oracals laminate 290 or 290F (290F is optically clear) I know a company that uses IJ180 and 290F and they do alot of wraps (they told me they like the Oracal lam and since its optically clear they dont have to change the laminator out) the cost is about the same as 3M regular lam.

I have noticed and I think there was a topic on the forum awhile back about lam color shifting prints I believe most said that the Oracal lams shifted the prints less than others.