After I removed the blue and black printhead, it is no longer working. I may or may not have unplug the power cord. I remember doing it, but not sure now. Some say it may be a fuse or capacitor problem. When I swapped the ribbon cable with the yellow and magenta, the black and blue printhead worked but caused the yellow and magenta printhead not to work. So I know it is not a printhead issue and must be the board or fuse. I found 3 fuses that is visible, 2 on one board and 1 on another. Fuses seem good. Can you please advise?
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HELP...Roland VP-300 Black and Blue Print head not firing. Stop working after clean
- Thread starter howsimple
- Start date
before to change a printhead you have to switch off the printer, take off the power cable and push on the power button several times to discharge the machine (especially capacitors). in some cases you can damage electronic board.
you can check some sensors and see if a board is damage. Enter in the service menu and chose check sensor.
check also the ribbon, maybe you have unfortunately damage it.
what is your printer?
you can check some sensors and see if a board is damage. Enter in the service menu and chose check sensor.
check also the ribbon, maybe you have unfortunately damage it.
what is your printer?
Solventinkjet
DIY Printer Fixing Guide
It is definitely the head fuse for that head if you swapped the cables and the problem switched heads.
The fuses you are looking for are very small and you would not, in most cases, be able to tell if they are good or bad just by looking at them. They are soldered onto the main board and labeled F1 and F2. Sometimes on Roland machines the F1 fuse spot is not used and F2 and F3 are used instead. If you have a device that can check for continuity, that is the best way to test them.
Remember the fuse is small. Maybe two to three times the size of a grain of rice.
The fuses you are looking for are very small and you would not, in most cases, be able to tell if they are good or bad just by looking at them. They are soldered onto the main board and labeled F1 and F2. Sometimes on Roland machines the F1 fuse spot is not used and F2 and F3 are used instead. If you have a device that can check for continuity, that is the best way to test them.
Remember the fuse is small. Maybe two to three times the size of a grain of rice.
vinylcutgraphics
New Member
Ours went the same - I switched on the machine with the Black/Cyan cable unplugged by accident, this was enough to blow the fuse on the board.
Our engineer changed the fuse but its easy if you are technically minded (and brave enough)
If you can locate the fuses on the board, with a meter check continuity across the fuses to see if it has gone.
I cant stress enough, the machine has to me off/power discharged before unplugging cables and need to be back in securely before powering on
I'd get an engineer, but whatever way you go good luck!
Our engineer changed the fuse but its easy if you are technically minded (and brave enough)
If you can locate the fuses on the board, with a meter check continuity across the fuses to see if it has gone.
I cant stress enough, the machine has to me off/power discharged before unplugging cables and need to be back in securely before powering on
I'd get an engineer, but whatever way you go good luck!
