Help with artwork embossed and shaded

[Stacey K]

Customers logo is on the right. I recreated it in vector format, 2-color, so we could do embroidery - turned out beautiful!

He would like more embroidery but to stick with my hat layout but make the letters and squares 3D. He also wanted signs and decals but he wants a space around the words like I did for the hat so it's easier to read and the brighter green.

SOOOOO, that means I either need the artwork so I can adjust it or I need to recreate it - correct? I told him either get me the artwork, have your guy adjust it or I have to recreate it and charge you because it's "more than just pressing a button". He called his "art guy" and the art guy said, "Actually, it is just pressing button and she doesn't have good enough equipment." More to the story but that's the short version.

To make my hat look like his original logo, how long would this take you and what "button are you pressing"? It's more than just pressing a button isn't it? I don't really do this kind of 3D crap so I'm not sure. Not asking you to do it for me cuz he isn't going to pay me, I just want to know for my own sake - artwork attached.

 

[WildWestDesigns]

Customers logo is on the right. I recreated it in vector format, 2-color, so we could do embroidery - turned out beautiful!

He would like more embroidery but to stick with my hat layout but make the letters and squares 3D. He also wanted signs and decals but he wants a space around the words like I did for the hat so it's easier to read and the brighter green.

SOOOOO, that means I either need the artwork so I can adjust it or I need to recreate it - correct? I told him either get me the artwork, have your guy adjust it or I have to recreate it and charge you because it's "more than just pressing a button". He called his "art guy" and the art guy said, "Actually, it is just pressing button and she doesn't have good enough equipment." More to the story but that's the short version.

To make my hat look like his original logo, how long would this take you and what "button are you pressing"? It's more than just pressing a button isn't it? I don't really do this kind of 3D crap so I'm not sure. Not asking you to do it for me cuz he isn't going to pay me, I just want to know for my own sake - artwork attached.

View attachment 179326

Regardless of trying to fake the 3D with just thread or actually using something like puff foam (and this will change depending on the thickness of said foam as well, could possibly get away with fewer changes with 2MM foam, but anything thicker, may actually also have to change thread tensions as well). If this is a short hot run, don't want to do anything bigger than 2MM, otherwise expect failures while trying to dial in machine/design. Unless you are running a lot of machines and have some already setup and dedicated for different thickness of puff foam and are only used for that specific thickness of puff foam.

No, it isn't just pressing a button, most art people don't know production. Now, I probably wouldn't suggest doing this on a stencil type of font, usually script ones look better. Getting straight edges straight is not easy and when they are off in puff, they are off big time. Same thing with the squares.

Probably get away with pinching versus capping, densities would need to be changed, plus I'm willing to put underlay as well. edge runs, very close to the edge, ubber dense (perforation of the foam is key to help clean pull it away and not have to deal with heat shrinking the excess "nubbies" that will probably stick out on occasion. The thinner areas of the font would need to be thickened up (thicken everything up to keep everything in the correct proportions).

I could go on and on, how much detail do you want with puff foam?

Bottom line, to do this correct in puff foam embroidery (or even faking it with thread), this isn't just making a few changes using dialog boxes in the program and spitting out a new DST/U??/whatever file. And there are other small tweaks that need to be done that I'm glossing over that won't be seen outward, but help with the actual production. Which isn't the same for regular embroidery.

 

[Goatshaver]

Looks like they used the 3D and did some beveled edges.

 

[JBurton]

He called his "art guy" and the art guy said, "Actually, it is just pressing button and she doesn't have good enough equipment." More to the story but that's the short version.

Well f*ck me running, the art guy knows where the button is? And instead of anything constructive, like here's the button, he's going to talk sh*t on my rig? Quick question, since you have an art guy, what do you pay him to do all day?

 

[Stacey K]

Looks like they used the 3D and did some beveled edges.
View attachment 179331

That looks great! So, this IS something I should be able to do in 2 clicks? Or how much would you charge your customer to do what you just did?

 

[Stacey K]

Regardless of trying to fake the 3D with just thread or actually using something like puff foam (and this will change depending on the thickness of said foam as well, could possibly get away with fewer changes with 2MM foam, but anything thicker, may actually also have to change thread tensions as well). If this is a short hot run, don't want to do anything bigger than 2MM, otherwise expect failures while trying to dial in machine/design. Unless you are running a lot of machines and have some already setup and dedicated for different thickness of puff foam and are only used for that specific thickness of puff foam.

No, it isn't just pressing a button, most art people don't know production. Now, I probably wouldn't suggest doing this on a stencil type of font, usually script ones look better. Getting straight edges straight is not easy and when they are off in puff, they are off big time. Same thing with the squares.

Probably get away with pinching versus capping, densities would need to be changed, plus I'm willing to put underlay as well. edge runs, very close to the edge, ubber dense (perforation of the foam is key to help clean pull it away and not have to deal with heat shrinking the excess "nubbies" that will probably stick out on occasion. The thinner areas of the font would need to be thickened up (thicken everything up to keep everything in the correct proportions).

I could go on and on, how much detail do you want with puff foam?

Bottom line, to do this correct in puff foam embroidery (or even faking it with thread), this isn't just making a few changes using dialog boxes in the program and spitting out a new DST/U??/whatever file. And there are other small tweaks that need to be done that I'm glossing over that won't be seen outward, but help with the actual production. Which isn't the same for regular embroidery.

That's the option I was thinking is the puff embroidery. I do send my embroidery out so this is very informative for me as most of what I order is just regular embroidery. Thank you for this!

 

[Johnny Best]

From what I see and imagine Stacy has great equipment!

 

[jimbug72]

My guess is that his guy is designing in Photoshop and his "one button" is the "Bevel & Emboss" layer effect in the layers palette. If you need it to be in vector format for production, tell him either his guy is going to have to push his magic button, or you'll have to charge him to use your inferior equipment.

 

[Goatshaver]

That looks great! So, this IS something I should be able to do in 2 clicks? Or how much would you charge your customer to do what you just did?

It wasn't too difficult. Not a few clicks though...probably no more than 20mins though. I don't use the bevel and emboss in the 3D tool in Illustrator at all so had to kind of figure it out a little and try different settings.
I don't know where that guys gets off saying it's "just one button" that's just a jerk thing to say because they think they're smarter than you.

 

[WildWestDesigns]

I don't use the bevel and emboss in the 3D tool in Illustrator at all so had to kind of figure it out a little and try different settings.

When I was using Ai, I tend to go with gradient mesh for creating 3D like effects.

I don't know where that guys gets off saying it's "just one button" that's just a jerk thing to say because they think they're smarter than you.

This is probably it and ironically, something that is born out of ignorance. But I do also blame the software OEM's though. They have sold a lot of things under that turnkey one click mentality.

 

[myront]

a few clicks all within CorelDRAW. 2min. Would've been faster if all the white had been as one and all the green as one, but that wasn't that hard either.

 

[JBurton]

a few clicks all within CorelDRAW. 2min. Would've been faster if all the white had been as one and all the green as one, but that wasn't that hard either.

View attachment 179340

Did you just add a lens effect to the copy?

 

[Stacey K]

It wasn't too difficult. Not a few clicks though...probably no more than 20mins though. I don't use the bevel and emboss in the 3D tool in Illustrator at all so had to kind of figure it out a little and try different settings.
I don't know where that guys gets off saying it's "just one button" that's just a jerk thing to say because they think they're smarter than you.

OK - that was the response I was hoping for LOL! I figured it was more than just one click!!! Thank you for making me right! LOL

 

[Stacey K]

Regardless of trying to fake the 3D with just thread or actually using something like puff foam (and this will change depending on the thickness of said foam as well, could possibly get away with fewer changes with 2MM foam, but anything thicker, may actually also have to change thread tensions as well). If this is a short hot run, don't want to do anything bigger than 2MM, otherwise expect failures while trying to dial in machine/design. Unless you are running a lot of machines and have some already setup and dedicated for different thickness of puff foam and are only used for that specific thickness of puff foam.

No, it isn't just pressing a button, most art people don't know production. Now, I probably wouldn't suggest doing this on a stencil type of font, usually script ones look better. Getting straight edges straight is not easy and when they are off in puff, they are off big time. Same thing with the squares.

Probably get away with pinching versus capping, densities would need to be changed, plus I'm willing to put underlay as well. edge runs, very close to the edge, ubber dense (perforation of the foam is key to help clean pull it away and not have to deal with heat shrinking the excess "nubbies" that will probably stick out on occasion. The thinner areas of the font would need to be thickened up (thicken everything up to keep everything in the correct proportions).

I could go on and on, how much detail do you want with puff foam?

Bottom line, to do this correct in puff foam embroidery (or even faking it with thread), this isn't just making a few changes using dialog boxes in the program and spitting out a new DST/U??/whatever file. And there are other small tweaks that need to be done that I'm glossing over that won't be seen outward, but help with the actual production. Which isn't the same for regular embroidery.

My embroidery lady just said the same thing, although not with as much detail. She said the only way to achieve a 3D look is with puff, not regular stitches. I trust what both of you say so I'll see what happens, thanks again!

 

[myront]

Did you just add a lens effect to the copy?

convert to bitmap then hit the Bitmap drop down/Texture/Plastic

 

[WildWestDesigns]

My embroidery lady just said the same thing, although not with as much detail. She said the only way to achieve a 3D look is with puff, not regular stitches. I trust what both of you say so I'll see what happens, thanks again!

No, you can come close to 2mm of puff with just stitches, but it would require manually digitizing those stitches in the underlay and by manual I mean one mouse click equals one needle insertion.

 

[Stacey K]

No, you can come close to 2mm of puff with just stitches, but it would require manually digitizing those stitches in the underlay and by manual I mean one mouse click equals one needle insertion.

OK, that makes sense. I don't think he's going to want to pay for that. And it's a run of 24 hats Richardson 112.

 

[WildWestDesigns]

OK, that makes sense. I don't think he's going to want to pay for that. And it's a run of 24 hats Richardson 112.

2mm puff, digitized for puff would be the more economical way as that would still all for semi-automatic tools to work. For just 24 hats, I would not do thicker unless your embroiderer has machines setup specifically for those thicker puff and are only used for that.